Rear pinion seal help 8.8

[RedRanger2006]

Have got a bad leak coming from my pinion seal sadly, wondering if there is ANY possible way (tried and true) other than too pull the axles & carrier too re set the preload of the bearings with pinion nut? I was thinking of just counting the threads sticking out on the pinion nut before I take it off and putting it back exactly where it was, thoughts?

 

[scotts90ranger]

You're close on the redneck solution... the tried and true redneck fix is to mark the nut and the pinion with a center punch or chisel or something at the threads then use red loctite on the nut when you put it back on and just line up the marks.

 

[SenorNoob]

I like that.^ Can't see why it wouldn't work.

I tried to change a flange once (No way to mark things. It was a different part going back.) and ended up with gear oil that looked more like antiseize a few thousand miles later.

 

[RedRanger2006]

You're close on the redneck solution... the tried and true redneck fix is to mark the nut and the pinion with a center punch or chisel or something at the threads then use red loctite on the nut when you put it back on and just line up the marks.

Throw in a new crush sleeve or use the old one? Just worried that with a new crush sleeve and not changing the pinion bearings behind the seal I may mess something up, I have the step by step procedure from ford says preload specs for used bearings is 8-14 in-lb & new bearings is 16-24in-lbs

 

[19Walt93]

I don't change the crush sleeve. I also don't mark the threads or count turns, I tighten the nut with my 1/2 impact and check the preload by hand frequently. Turning the pinion back and forth just enough to take up the backlash you should be able to feel light drag. If you're in doubt, tighten it a little more, the preload is far less than the pressure under acceleration. Look closely at the seal surface on the pinion flange, if it's scored where the seal rides either replace the flange or put a speedi sleeve on it. I put a couple drops of lock tite on the threads instead of replacing the nut, too.

 

[RedRanger2006]

Thought I'd update everyone and say thankyou! Just finnished up went for a half hour drive no leaks no rear end noises indicating I messed up, & same backlash on the driveshaft!

 

[2008DangerRanger]

Thought I'd update everyone and say thankyou! Just finnished up went for a half hour drive no leaks no rear end noises indicating I messed up, & same backlash on the driveshaft!

Im doing the exact same thing on mine right now how has yours held up? I am going to mark the threads as well but also check the drag before and after to make sure its good. My pinion currently has zero drag on it what so ever. I mean it will not even register on the inch lb beam style torque wrench. The fluid looked good when I drained it and I would really rather not replace the crush sleeve. Any suggestions on what drag I should tighten it to or should I just aim for that lower end of the 8-14 inch lb range?

 

[RedRanger2006]

Im doing the exact same thing on mine right now how has yours held up? I am going to mark the threads as well but also check the drag before and after to make sure its good. My pinion currently has zero drag on it what so ever. I mean it will not even register on the inch lb beam style torque wrench. The fluid looked good when I drained it and I would really rather not replace the crush sleeve. Any suggestions on what drag I should tighten it to or should I just aim for that lower end of the 8-14 inch lb range?

Have had no issues what so ever since doing it! Just marked everything and put it back on the exact same way and had no problems.