Rear End Maintenance

[sheliable]

Just got done with servicing the front end of my 2wd XLT. New sway bar end links, upper control arms, and lower ball joints all done by yours truly, was fun to learn how to do that stuff and not too terrible. Really needed it, the old stuff was really worn out.

Now I am turning my attention to the rear end. Currently I have a 3.73 open 7.5" with drum brakes. Waiting on a call back from the yard on sourcing a 4.10. What details should I be concerned with on the new rear end? 7.5 vs 8.8, brake size, etc...

Also I hear that I should definitely replace the U bolts when I do the swap. Where can I get new ubolts from? They are hard to find on rock auto. What else should I have on hand for the swap?

Lastly, I'm having a hell of a time getting my plastic wheel well liners and mud flaps and stuff to fit back on right. Any tips / tricks / how tos?

 

[Dirtman]

4.10 is offered in 7.5 and quite common, you don't need to go to an 8.8 to get it. Unless you have some serious plans for power or offroad the 8.8 won't give you any benefits.

 

[Ranger850]

I'm having a hell of a time getting my plastic wheel well liners and mud flaps and stuff to fit back on right. Any tips / tricks / how tos?

Try letting them sit in the sun for a few hours. The become more pliable and easier to manipulate.
or a heat gun.

 

[Dirtman]

Lol even in heat they take some bending and cursing to get back on. I do my drivers side alot for the PCV valve and got it down to a science but it's hard to explain over the internet. Basically squeeze stick expand and pull back towards you...

 

[pjtoledo]

Just got done with servicing the front end of my 2wd XLT. New sway bar end links, upper control arms, and lower ball joints all done by yours truly, was fun to learn how to do that stuff and not too terrible. Really needed it, the old stuff was really worn out.

Now I am turning my attention to the rear end. Currently I have a 3.73 open 7.5" with drum brakes. Waiting on a call back from the yard on sourcing a 4.10. What details should I be concerned with on the new rear end? 7.5 vs 8.8, brake size, etc...

Also I hear that I should definitely replace the U bolts when I do the swap. Where can I get new ubolts from? They are hard to find on rock auto. What else should I have on hand for the swap?

Lastly, I'm having a hell of a time getting my plastic wheel well liners and mud flaps and stuff to fit back on right. Any tips / tricks / how tos?

you're not swearing enough.
for some they just slip right on, for others they can be a real challenge.

 

[gaz]

sheliable,

If money and time permit, I will rebuild an axle prior to a swap, while I'm in the area I will clean the frame and parts for paint too:

-bushings
-bearings
-brakes
-U joints
-u bolts

U bolts can be sourced from 4x4 specialty shops, online vendors and local semi repair shops.

I have a place local that makes leaf springs, they hook me up with all that lot.

"pjtoledo" is correct, swearing at the vehicle will get it inline, it just needs to know that you mean business!! Sometimes throwing an expensive tool or components helps too ..(. All kidding aside, rebuilding an axle prior to installation is a seriously PRUDENT expense and time well spent fir some piece if mind.

 

[sheliable]

sheliable,

If money and time permit, I will rebuild an axle prior to a swap, while I'm in the area I will clean the frame and parts for paint too:

-bushings
-bearings
-brakes
-U joints
-u bolts

U bolts can be sourced from 4x4 specialty shops, online vendors and local semi repair shops.

I have a place local that makes leaf springs, they hook me up with all that lot.

"pjtoledo" is correct, swearing at the vehicle will get it inline, it just needs to know that you mean business!! Sometimes throwing an expensive tool or components helps too ..(. All kidding aside, rebuilding an axle prior to installation is a seriously PRUDENT expense and time well spent fir some piece if mind.

Thanks for the advice. Elaborate on what exactly you mean by building an axle prior to the swap?

 

[gaz]

sheliabe,

I didn't build the axle, I "rebuilt" it using OEM or better quality components.

I had a good working axle but I desired to change the axle gearing to accomidate the larger than stock tires that I had installed.

I took a chance and bought a 4:10LS axle from the junkyard. Upon inspecting the gears, they looked GREAT. I decided to swap the entire unit in instead of just the gears. Before swapping axles, I bought all new axle bearings, races, gear and bearings/seals, new brake cylinders, shoes, pads and consumables.

I wire wheeled the entire outer axle surface/brake back plate, cleaned/primed/painted them/it.

I could have reused the "U"bolts but I added leaves to make a custom pack with a little more height, so I made use of new, longer "U" bolts.

I replaced the drive line universal joints because it was all apart.

When I installed the replacement axle, I used new full synthetic gear oil, drained and serviced the brakes with fresh fluid.

This took more time and money but it provided me with confidence in the material integrity of the axle. I am still driving on that axle; I serviced it in 1995 when I installed it.

 

[cbxer55]

I bought a set of new 4.1 gears from CARiD. brand is Motive Gear. A friend with a transmission shop recently installed them in my 7.5 open. The difference isn't great, but noticeable. Truck stays in OD more now than it used to, doesn't hunt around between D and OD anymore. Stays in OD going uphill. Engine braking is more noticeable downhill, especially if you like to downshift the trans manually as I do. I turn OD off first, then go from D to 2nd all the time decelerating. It's much more effective now with the 4.1s. It was worth the money to do.