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Rear Disc Brake Junkyard Upgrade, EASY TO DO


zekew64

Well-Known Member
Joined
Oct 4, 2011
Messages
207
City
Carbondale, IL
Vehicle Year
1992
Transmission
Manual
Just read the sticky about the rear disc brake upgrades, and what got me was that the OP said there was "no easy junkyard upgrade."

I hate to disagree, but the upgrade I did on my Ranger was, in fact, EASY (only difficult thing was to modify the Mustang anchor plates).

Here's the link to the mod that I did, from Ford Ranger Forum:

http://www.fordrangerforum.com/how-...c-brake-conversion-stock-ranger-rear-end.html

Read through it...enjoy!

Now, is that mod easy or what? That is, if easy means "a 3/8 ratchet and a pry bar." :D
 
mine wont be junkyard status, but ill be doing this conversion very soon with upgraded pads and rotors. its a good writeup.
 
I appreciate your trying to contribute to the forum, but did you read the thread you referenced before criticizing it? That thread was posted before the thread on Ford Ranger Forum even existed, even then it was a direct copy paste from an even older version of this site. If you had continued reading that thread you would have noticed this same swap referenced even if not as detailed, once again it was before that thread existed. You seem to have forgotten a step of the swap, infact it would be the very step that kept this swap out of that post. That being it is.not a bolt on solution, you have to cut the mounting bracket. The true original poster stated in our thread that that was the reason he did not include it. Not everyone has access to the tools and equipment to modify the mounting bracket.
 
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I appreciate your trying to contribute to the forum, but did you read the thread you referenced before criticizing it? That thread was posted before the thread on Ford Ranger Forum even existed, even then it was a direct copy paste from an even older version of this site. If you had continued reading that thread you would have noticed this same swap referenced even if not as detailed, once again it was before that thread existed. You seem to have forgotten a step of the swap, in fact it would be the very step that kept this swap out of that post. That being it is not a bolt on solution, you have to cut the mounting bracket. The true original poster stated in our thread that that was the reason he did not include it. Not everyone has access to the tools and equipment to modify the mounting bracket.

Actually, yes, I did, which is the reason why I created this thread.

When I did my disc brake swap, I used a vise with a hacksaw (being very careful about not cutting myself in the process, due to "hacksaw jump"). Not to sound rude or obnoxious, but when someone says "something can't be done," I'm a person that will find a way to get it done. I understand if someone doesn't have a band saw with a metal cutting blade; most of the more expensive tools I don't have access to or own. This is the reason why I contemplated that mod for six months before attempting it. The other way that the cutting of the bracket could have been accomplished is with a grinder with a cutting wheel. The other thing, Josh, is that I did not have the time, money or skill to modify an Exploder axle to fit my Ranger (I suck at welding, btw). However, I did score an 8.8 Ranger axle (~$100) as well from the same junkyard, and put the axle and the brakes on at the same time.

However, the core of this post is the fact that the OP said that the swap was not "junkyard friendly." Other than new pads and a new rubber line, everything I used was from the junkyard. I have used the mod for the last nine months, and other than replacing one of the junkyard steel lines--because it broke--I have had no problems with the mod at all.

Speaking of which--if anyone does attempt this mod, I would highly recommend getting a worm gear clamp from either Lowe's or Home Depot to keep the junction box (from steel line to rubber line) from moving, so the steel line doesn't break.
 
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You have no idea the number of people that I know that the only tools they have at home is the generic parts house tool kit. You know the super cheap socket and ratchet set that might include a couple wrenches, an adjustable wrench, and a few screw drivers ( and that's more than you want to trust them with). The only type of saw they know about is a chain saw (they saw it in a horror movie), and the only vice they've heard of is Miami Vice. Yet they still think they are fully qualified to fix their own vehicle. I work with some, which is scary since I'm an aircraft mechanic, and to be brutally honest there are more than a few here. I personally have a multitude of ways to cut the bracket, but I also know I have access to a lot more tools than most people.

I never mentioned the explorer axle in my post for a reason. Yes I know it can be modified to work, but takes more cutting/welding than the mustang brakes. I've got one going into my '86, but it's also getting lowered so it doesn't need a lot of work to I stall. With the suspension mods, complete rebuild, rewire, and V8 swap the explorer axle would be easy in comparison. It is possible that at some point I may do the swap to 12" cobras on this axle, but that's a different bracket. FWIW I to suck at welding, but haven't have had much chance to practice either.

Honestly curious here cause you said everything came from the junkyard. Where did you get the bracket? Last I looked into the swap I thought it was an aftermarket part only. If there is a factory source for the bracket that makes the swap even more feasible.
 
Where did I get the anchor plate (holds the caliper bracket to the axle tube), you ask?

Easy--pulled it off of a stock Mustang, from the same yard I picked everything else up from. Yes, I had to pull the axles from the axle tube...but it was worth it in the end. AND, I didn't have to buy new ones, lol.

However, I plan on sooner or later upgrading my brakes again, but only if I can score bigger wheels so the bigger brakes fit. As it is, I'm thinking now of doing the '95-'97 steering knuckle upgrade, so I have dual-piston calipers in the front.

Keep in mind, however, that the Mustang I pulled my anchor plates off of only had the 3.8 V6...I'm assuming, having put those brakes on, that I can upgrade later to the Cobra brakes when I have the bigger wheels to put on my truck.
 
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Cool learnt something new. I always though the brackets had to be bought, guess I just assumed that because everyone talks about and posts links to getting new ones. I actually think pulling the axles is the better idea because it requires one to change the differential fluid, something that's often overlooked. Not necessarily that it has to be replaced, but that many people never think to check the level.

For bigger on the rear, I'm assuming you have the base/GT set-up now. I'm not positive but I believe that the Cobra rear set-up is a direct bolt-on upgrade. Possibly as simple as just replacing the caliper bracket and rotor. IIRC it's about 1" larger rotor than the base/GT. You may also be able to run some of the aftermarket BBKs for the Mustang.

There's a few options for the front, but they all start with the upgrade you are suggesting. Options are stock dual piston, 12" Sport Trac, 13" Cobra, and I believe there is a company that makes aftermarket options.
 
Cool...I'll keep that in mind. Problem I have right now is that I'm unemployed and broke--never an easy thing to deal with when you see all the shinyness that people are always doing to their vehicles, lol!
 
Does FoMoCo REALLY save money putting DRUMS on our Rangers???

Hard to believe the Ranger doesn't come with rear discs... :icon_confused:
 
Does FoMoCo REALLY save money putting DRUMS on our Rangers???

Hard to believe the Ranger doesn't come with rear discs... :icon_confused:

Actually, Ford Motor doesn't want to save money by putting drums on. The reason why they do is just like everything else--they want you to take it to a tech at a dealership to change the brakes when they go bad.
 
I don't think a dealer technician has anything to do with it. Drum brakes have been around since the dawn of time. Most people who can work on a vehicle can replace/repair drum brakes just as easily as they replace/repair disk brakes, it just takes a little more time. Besides how often do rear brakes get touched? I started to change pads on my 99 at about 85K because I thought they were worn out and bought the shoes, turns out the dumbass PO fubared the hardware at some point. They didn't need changing so I put them on the shelf thinking I'd use them eventually. It's at 175K now and on the same shoes, and they don't need replacing yet. So with at least 90K on a set of shoes so I doubt it was about bringing money into the stealership.

If anything the reason they didn't change is bean counters. The same drum brake components had been used on the Ranger since it's inception and it worked, so why spend the money designing and tooling up for a new system. They started putting rear disks on them in 2010 IIRC, do you know the reason? Federal mandate. The government decided that all new vehicles starting with the 2010 model year had to have stability control, as a result Ford had to change the braking system to work with it. It was easier to make rear disk brakes work than rear drums.
 
Josh, thanks much for the background info. Duh Feds, always sticking their nose in.

Just the other day I was lusting after the rear discs on a 2010 Sport-Trac I parked next to... calipers all painted red n' slick... for just a split-second I had the thought... "the bolt-pattern is the same..." :icon_welder:

I kid...
 
Great write up man. Thats exactly how I did the swap on the Mustang axle in my 5.0 Focus.
 
Just the other day I was lusting after the rear discs on a 2010 Sport-Trac I parked next to... calipers all painted red n' slick... for just a split-second I had the thought... "the bolt-pattern is the same..." :icon_welder:

Didn't the Sport Trac have IRS by then? If so I doubt they would work the same for a swap. I know the Explorer went to IRS, but not sure when/if the sport trac did the same. If I had the option I think I'd just take the 2010 Sport Trac as long as it had 4wd and V8. They've grown a lot on me here as an alternative to fixing up the tiring 98. Though if dad decides to trade his two trucks in on an F-150 I may try to work something out with him first. My 98 Ranger + cash for his 2000 F-250 7.3L manual transmission, manual transfer case, and 4wd.

Great write up man. Thats exactly how I did the swap on the Mustang axle in my 5.0 Focus.

How did I miss that thread, gotta bookmark that one to read. Once saw a guy do a 4.6 (IIRC) in a Probe, made for one wild ride. I imagine that yours will be fun if you can get traction with it.
 

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