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Rear ABS delete on a 94 ranger


black_demon69

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jun 30, 2013
Messages
1,511
City
AZ
Vehicle Year
1994
Engine
4.0 V6
Transmission
Manual
can the ABS Hydraulic Unit for the rear ABS be deleted safely? mine is leaking

here is a link to a pic of the part in question

http://s373.photobucket.com/user/cuagamailero/media/IMGP0809.jpg.html
url
 
Last edited:
Sure, it can be done... But why? I would find what is actually leaking and repair or replace as necessary. I know some parts can be pricy, but ABS is a GOOD thing. You may find that the rear wheels are quite easy to lock up without the anti lock feature.
 
I will concur on fix it. Mine doesn't work because the abs computer was gone when I bought it. Some genius used to wiring harness running to it to route stereo wires front to back. Imagine my surprise when I took the interior panels off.
The abs warning light was on but I didn't try locking the brakes when I test drive it so didn't realize.

I have to be careful when it's wet after driving vehicles with abs it's much different
 
already know what is leaking just don't want to spend $100+ to fix it.. besides we don't get any snow and it doesn't rain very often here.. so i think i would be fine.
 
I still have to advise against removing the pump from the system, but if you must do it, get yourself a couple of the correct size high pressure couplers and a small piece of steel line(should be 3/16) to bridge the gap, and make sure everything is good and tight, but not too tight, as over tightening can also create a leak. If you leave the pump plugged in and wire tied out of the way, you wont acquire an ABS light. Also, have you considered a junkyard pump?
 
Oh, and it will also need bled after you break the system open as that will introduce air into the system.
 
I still have to advise against removing the pump from the system, but if you must do it, get yourself a couple of the correct size high pressure couplers and a small piece of steel line(should be 3/16) to bridge the gap, and make sure everything is good and tight, but not too tight, as over tightening can also create a leak. If you leave the pump plugged in and wire tied out of the way, you wont acquire an ABS light. Also, have you considered a junkyard pump?


first off i would rather leave stock but don't have the money to replace it right now (however i will at some point add it back into the system) as for a junkyard pump all the yards around here like to rape you with a splintery 4x4 and no lube, if you get my drift also not a fan of used parts for a brake system..
 
Oh, and it will also need bled after you break the system open as that will introduce air into the system.


i am well aware that brakes will have to be bled. :D

it also sprung a leak at the wheel cylinders so those are going to get replaced along with the leaky axle seals. shoes haven't been saturated yet but are at roughly 50% so i will replace those along with spring kit...

thinking of doing master as well even though it is fine or might just wait until i add rabs back in..
 
For the record my RABS hasn't worked in around 6 years and I haven't really missed it, I wasn't really using it anyway... I do all sorts of things that that system was installed for and have been just fine. I think my piston is just stuck...
 
Going on 2 and a half years with my RABS "delete". I just used a male to male coupler and bypassed the pump. Mine was rusted solid and the rear brakes didn't work, and like you, I didn't want to spend $100+ on a part for my $1000 truck. Haven't missed the RABS at all. Here is how my set up is done. I left the pump on and wired so I don't throw dash lights.
DSCN8293_zpszpe7d7fs.jpg
 
Going on 2 and a half years with my RABS "delete". I just used a male to male coupler and bypassed the pump. Mine was rusted solid and the rear brakes didn't work, and like you, I didn't want to spend $100+ on a part for my $1000 truck. Haven't missed the RABS at all. Here is how my set up is done. I left the pump on and wired so I don't throw dash lights.
DSCN8293_zpszpe7d7fs.jpg


thats exactly what i did
 
Interesting...

My truck's ABS has not worked in almost 10 years...I have thought about fixing it, but have never got around to doing it or had enough money to do it... Now that I am not as financially embarrassed I have given thought to just fixing it, but it is looking like I am going to have to replace most if not all of the lines due to rust, so that might be a time to get the pump and fix it.

AJ
 
Going on 2 and a half years with my RABS "delete". I just used a male to male coupler and bypassed the pump. Mine was rusted solid and the rear brakes didn't work, and like you, I didn't want to spend $100+ on a part for my $1000 truck. Haven't missed the RABS at all. Here is how my set up is done. I left the pump on and wired so I don't throw dash lights.
DSCN8293_zpszpe7d7fs.jpg
What size coupler is that? I've tried a coupe and haven't found it yet. I just replaced front calipers and flex lines and now its turned into no pedal pressure and no brake fluid to the rear brakes after I bled them. Thought maybe the RABS is stuck. No leaks in the system. Need help.
 
What size coupler is that? I've tried a coupe and haven't found it yet. I just replaced front calipers and flex lines and now its turned into no pedal pressure and no brake fluid to the rear brakes after I bled them. Thought maybe the RABS is stuck. No leaks in the system. Need help.
You lost me....how can you bleed the brakes if you don't have fluid coming to them?
 

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