2.3L ('83-'97) RE-tap gone wrong?

[Final777]

Hello again, I'm back with another puzzling situation that I really need help with I don't want to damage my engine if it is at risk. Recently I snapped off the bolt that holds my thermostat housing in place. I had to drill a hole, remove the old bolt, and then re-tap it to a larger size (M8-M10) then bolt my thermostat housing back in. Everything is tight and I had no leaks but now when I try to start her up she isn't wanting to stay running I have to get the throttle down, but this may be from other factors that she has right now. My question is could I have possibly drilled to far into my cylinder head to somehow cause the water and oil to mix in that area, is this even possible? (I had to drill out the top left bolt on the thermostat housing)

 

[Curious Hound]

Are you seeing water in the oil? Or oil in the coolant? Any signs of overpressurizing the coolant system? If not, then your drilling/tapping operation was most likely a success. IAC (Idle air control) working properly?

 

[Final777]

So far I don't I'll check that iac in the morning thanks

 

[Brain75]

Would a glove test be of any use in this situation? I get that we aren't looking for high pressure compression gasses, but the crank case pressure is around what 4 psi - enough it should show up as burping/ fail the glove test I would think. Might have to block off the PCV to keep it from disguising/hiding it.... just thinking out loud.

 

[Final777]

I'm sorry the glove test? Now that's a new one for me could u possibly please explain to me how that is relevant to my situation? I'm not trying to be rude I'm just not to savvy when it comes to mechanics

 

[Brain75]

It's typically used to see a blown head gasket.
remove the radiator cap, put a ballon/latex glove/condom over the radiator then pressurize the engine (or crankcase in this case) guess you could pull the oil level sensor or some other sensor in the crank area and inject shop air

like I said, I know we aren't dealing with compression gas (basically just inside a cylinder) just crankcase gas (everywhere else except oil passages) so big difference in pressure - which is why I am thinking shop air.

 

[Brain75]

if you inject air into the crank case somewhere I would not go all balls to the wall and throw in some ridiculous 100 psi or something... cylinders are designed for that, the valve cover gaskets not - they are like 15 psi, so you'll blow all kinds of stuff out if you get rambunctious...a steady continous amount of basically anything like 5 psi should inflate the glove if you have a leak between crankcase and coolant.

 

[Brain75]

At this point I am thinking out loud and soliciting some 2nd opinions more than anything... might wait till someone else agrees / disagrees before you invest any time in that.

Ultimately Hound has the first line and the most correct line of attack - look in the reservoirs for mixed fluids.

I'm throwing out the test at this point if you haven't ran it enough to mix anything or in case you don't want to run it at all until you know - coolant in places coolant shouldn't be can be catastrophic... better to figure out if you are ok before you run it.

 

[Final777]

Okay thanks I ran the engine for less than one min but a couple of times, she wouldn't run without stepping on the accelerator she cuts off in 5 min just about every time but I think I might have an exhaust restriction, buti definitely don't want to crank it at all if it means damaging my engine I don't think the it's water in the oil in not seeing why water droplets but it does look a little thin

 

[Brain75]

Oil floats on top of water. The only way to see if you have coolant in the oil (on a dead stone cold engine) is to change the oil (or pull the plug for 1 seconds and replace it). You will get coolant first out the drain.
If you run it enough to really really mix the oil up then you might be able to see it.