Ranger wont start

[scrapper]

I just replaced the crankshaft sensor and it will not start. I also replaced the harmonic balancer. One of the wires was burnt on the old crank sensor. If I lifted up on the multi wire plug for the crank sensor and the truck would die. I have checked the timing 3 times and it is right on. It does not have a cam sensor. It sounds like it wants to start but just cant do it. Like its going to start but then sounds like its going to backfire. I did check the first plug wire on the intake side it had good spark. I'm not sure what to check. What would be the most likely problem? I thought it was the harness but am not sure. If it was 180 out it should still run fine maybe it is the icm? I'm lucky right now the wife just had surgery so I can drive her car for awhile about another 2 weeks. I got to start somewhere I hate wiring but will try anything.

 

[Mark_88]

Did you try spraying quick start or other starter fluid into it so see if you're getting fuel?

If that doesn't work and you are getting spark that would be really weird. If it fires but doesn't stay running then you may have a timing issue.

 

[scrapper]

Its not the timing belt timing though. I will try the starter fluid in the morning. I thought about that but wasnt sure if it would backfire. I will take the pulley off and check the harmonic balancer, it came apart but I thought it could only go back on one way. I'm talking about the ring on the back that runs in the crank sensor. it was lined up with a small pin. It really doesnt fire completely but sounds like it going to start then nothing.

 

[Mark_88]

If that crank sensor tone ring (I think that's what it's called) is missing it won't start or run properly. That's how the PCM times the engine and it needs a reference point to even start...which might not even allow spark so if you are getting spark that would be even weirder.

Always start with fuel in case there is a supply issue though...if it fires but doesn't run or runs poorly then putting the tone ring on should get you going.

 

[tomw]

The plugs on the intake side are not used to start the engine. To my knowledge, the exhaust side plugs are used 100% of the time, and thus are used to start the engine.
To check for fuel, you can remove a vacuum line that leads to the intake manifold, and pour a little fuel into the line. It will trickle into the intake and be able to be burned. If the engine lights up using that fuel, you may have a fuel delivery problem.
You could also swap the coils from position to position to see if one of them is affecting starting.
tom

 

[scrapper]

The ring is on it but nothing was holding it on and it fell off it had a small pin in it for alignment I didnt look but if it had more than one hole it may be in the wrong place. I will check the plugs on the exhaust side also.I pulled the relay out and the top came off. I was thinking maybe its bad, or messed up. I didnt think there was a problem with fuel but I'm heading out there to find out about the starter fluid.

 

[scrapper]

well now the starter just spins wont engage the fly wheel. Its still raining so will have to pull the starter off tomorrow.

 

[scrapper]

I think it was that ring. I put it back on correctly.I got the starter off. I will get it checked out.

 

[Mark_88]

These no start no crank symptoms sound almost like bad battery grounding. Except you said the starter is spinning but not turning the engine over. Can't say I've encountered that other than the starter clicks and does nothing. A bad ground can translate into all kinds of things but when it was cranking and not firing that sounded more like fuel supply or the ring wasn't installed properly...or the sensor was off somehow.

Anyway...hopefully you can track it down to something that can be fixed or replaced.

 

[scrapper]

Bad starter, got one on order. It tested good at autozone and the gear was popping out. It will not work when I reinstalled the starter, the gear would not engage the flywheel.I'm not sure if I can just replace a part or not I'm just going to replace it. I will let you know if it starts after it gets here.

 

[tomw]

The gear can be replaced separately. It has a 'sprag clutch' inside the gear that locks the gear to the starter armature in one direction, and lets it freewheel in the other. You'd need to take the starter apart and fit a new gear. They are cheap. Less than a starter.
I think they are called a "Bendix" drive, but I have not bought one in a long time.
They are not real difficult to install, especially if you leave the brush end alone, and just pull the cap from the 'gear' end.
tom

 

[scrapper]

I got it to run by spraying carb cleaner in the intake piping.It isnt getting fuel but wasnt problem when I shut it down. I can hear the pump kick on. I'm going to replace the filter. If it does not work I guess I'll use a fuel pressure gauge. Anything else to check? Thanks for past answers. Well I'm not sure what is wrong would not even try to start. The battery is gone. I'm going to have to get a new one it will not charge up, will only turn over about 20 seconds and its gone. Its driving me crazy...

 

[tomw]

Check that there is fuel in the tank. Just read of someone who has a bum gauge, just filled up, and someone 'needed' his fuel more than he did, so they took it. He spent hours trying to get an engine to start without fuel in the tank. If nothing else, add a couple gallons of gas to be sure. Maybe spend on a locking gas cap, depending on where you park.
Before replacing anything else, you can borrow a pressure gauge from an auto parts store, and return at no charge if you do not damage it. Do not replace things without reason or you are just wasting time and money.
tom

 

[scrapper]

Well I sprayed starter fluid and it ran, but it would backfire as it ran out of starter fluid. I turn the key on and have pressure to the rail but it only comes out for a second. I have to turn the key back on the get anymore to come out, but it only comes out for a second. I thought it should have pressure the whole time? I'm not sure about the backfiring.
I also found 2 different pictures of the firing order in the Haynes manual. I think it was right the first time and I changed it to the other one and it was popping bad. It still backfired when it ran out of starter fluid.I took the icm off and a bolt broke. Thats going to suck. It has a lot of corrosion behind it.

 

[tomw]

You can expect a backfire, popping, stumbling and a lot more when your engine runs out of fuel after you stop spraying stuff for it to eat into its maw.
Your pump will/should run for a few seconds at first turn of the key from OFF to ON, and then stop until the engine starts. The computer monitors start by the SPOUT signal or the crank/cam signal to know things are turning. If they're missing, no pump run after start as the injector pressure will go to zero.
Check for cam/crank signal based on model year. Of if old, distribulator/intake mounted TFI.
tom