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Ranger wont start. Help!


scdavis

Member
Joined
Jun 17, 2014
Messages
6
Vehicle Year
1997
Transmission
Manual
Hello, this is my first time posting in these forums.

I'm having an issue with my 1997 ford ranger 2.3L 5 speed not starting. I can push start the truck fine but when I turn the key, the solenoid just clicks once when the key is turned over.

So far I've; taken the battery out and had it tested by Autozone, Cleaned the terminals and replaced the positive terminal on the cable, Replaced the solenoid on the fender wall, troubleshot all wires with a multimeter from the battery to the starter. They tested fine. I removed the starter and took it to autozone and it too tested perfect. I'm running out of options here. I'm a broke veteran going to college so I can't really afford to just throw parts at it.

Is there anything I may have missed that it could be?
 
A weak starter will bench test ok but not spin the engine.

Also, the engine may have siezed. Pull a few spark plugs and see if it cranks.
 
A weak starter will bench test ok but not spin the engine.

Also, the engine may have siezed. Pull a few spark plugs and see if it cranks.

Could the engine be seized and still push start fine? I drove it 9 miles home after it wouldn't start and everything was a-okay.
 
Nope, sorry. A seized engine will not pop start. It could still be a weak starter though, so still pull a plug out of each cylinder and see if it cranks.
 
I plan on pulling plugs tomorrow and giving it a shot.
 
I would check the cables for voltage drop. Have someone turn the key to start and check voltage with a voltmeter, start at the battery then check voltage at the cable ends to see if it drops off. You can have just one good wire in a cable and it will test good with a ohm meter, but it won't be able to handle the amp load to start your truck.
 
Starter relay and fuse sometimes its that simple

Sent from my ME173X using Tapatalk
 
Another easy thing to do is hit the starter with a hammer when it's not working, sometimes the jarring will make it work. If it starts after hitting it I would replace the starter. I know you said Autozone tested it, it could have a intermittent problem.
 
The starter can bench test good, but not be able to turn the engine over. On a 97 Ranger (since I don't mess with those too much, still too new) Auto Zone, and other parts stores web sites shows that they show that they use the starter that has starter solenoid on top of the starter (those starters are expensive). I say either the starter bushings, brushes, starter drive, or a combination of those things are bad. If you are mechanically inclined you can replace the starter bushings yourself, which I find is the problem on most starters, starters don't like to work with a load on them when the bushings are worn out (but will bench test ok), take a chance with a used one from a salvage yard with a warranty (usually 30 days), or park on inclines until you can afford another starter.
 
I would check cranking voltage at the battery, the relay, and the solenoid. You should not see the voltage drop significantly when cranking.
I would use the small connection on the relay to energize the starter, in neutral or Park, and see if the starter would crank using a more direct connection.
If you only get a click, you can sometimes see the large wires move as the electricity flows through them, indicating they are carrying a lot of amps. The solenoid on the starter does two things. It throws the starter gear into the ring gear on the flywheel or flex plate and it connects the large power cables internally. If its connections are corroded or arced badly, it won't pass enough juice to operate the starter. You can remove the solenoid and check the contacts. If it is what I remember there is a disc inside that is pushed against two copper contacts. Things can get pretty zapped up in there. A solenoid is replaceable without having to buy a whole starter.
tom
 
I had the same issue. The negative battery cable rotted off the engine. One thing you can do as a test for a bad ground to the block is use a set of jumper cabled to connect the negative battery terminal directly to the block.
 
Well here's what I've done so far. I pulled all the positive wires out, cleaned em up, tested them and re-installed them. I pulled the ground off and sanded the shit out of that and the mating surface on the frame, the ground is only 2 years old so I figure that is fine. Next step, I'm going to push start the bastard and drive to autozone, hopefully they have a starter in stock.

I've checked the fuse, its good. As well as put a new solenoid on. She clicks fine.
 
Last edited:
Did you try jumping the solenoid? Just put a screwdriver (or something else with a plastic handle so you don't get a shock) between the two bolts on the solenoid. If the starter works then, you have a wonky solenoid (even if you just replaced with a new one)...it happens.

Also, cables can actually corrode beneath the sheath. If they are the original cables you might consider replacing them at some point regardless of whether you actually get it working otherwise.

The connection at the starter is likely the problem though...they tend to corrode and are hard to see usually...remove it from the starter and check that the connector is not loose on the starter...and rapping the starter as someone suggested is a good way to get test them...many of mine have required that little reminder of their function and it does indicate the starter is the problem...
 
Installed a new starter and nothing. Still wont start. If you jump the solenoid also nothing happens. I'm starting to get frustrated. Will be going to a shop this week.
 
Jumping the solenoid... Are you referring to the relay on the inner fender? The solenoid is generally the electro-magnetic dealey that pulls the starter gear teeth into mesh with the flywheel or ring gear teeth while simultaneously closing a large contact inside the starter or inside the solenoid if it is external mount to the starter.
FoMoCo made a starter that had a 'shoe' that got pulled into the windings of the starter when the relay by the battery was energized. Those starters had a tapered bump on them. When the relay energized, the shoe would also close contacts inside the starter.
Which starter design do you have? The newer Fords have a GM looking starter with a cylindrical solenoid mounted atop the starter instead of the 'bump' design.
If you get no clicks or anything from the starter when the relay is jumpered (small term to the large term on the battery side of the relay), then you might have the starter wired incorrectly.
Get a pic or two and post...
tom
 

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