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Ranger will not run


83-2.8 91-3.0

Member
Joined
Jun 2, 2011
Messages
22
City
Newton, MS
Vehicle Year
1991
Transmission
Automatic
I have a 1991 Ford Ranger XLT Supercab. It quit on me the other day while I was trying to leave the house and now it will not run at all. It will crank and go right back dead, even if you hold the accelerator all the way down. Does anyone have any suggestions on what could be causing this, because I don't have a clue about it anymore.
 
no work done before this happened? did you hit something as you pulled in? is the fuel pump running when you turn the key on?
 
No work done befor besides a new fuel pump and filter, I didn't hit anything, and the fuel pump is pumping good.
 
Your description of the problem isn't clear to me.

"It will crank and go right back dead, even if you hold the accelerator all the way down."

So, it sounds like it cranks over and starts/runs until you release the key to the Run position? If so, check out the ignition switch.

http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/EDiagrams/files/Diagram_Ignitionsystem_1990_3_0.JPG

Probe that R/LG wire with the ignition switch connected and the key in the Run position. No power is a bad ignition switch or a problem with its linkage.

If you aren't "electrically inclined" or have no meter, simply run a temporary power wire to the R/LG wire at the coil and see if it'll run hot-wired. Disconnect that wire to shut the engine off if it starts. Ignition switches are a pretty common problem.
 
Well youd try and crank it and it fires right up with no problem, but then it starts spitten and sputtering and goes dead, and even when you press the accelerator to try and keep it running it still goes dead. I tryied that hot wiring and it still ran the same way.
 
Then I suspect a fuel delivery problem.


I replaced a fuel pump on one of the 93 2.3's that I bought and sold. A few weeks later, the guy that bought it (coworker) tells me he had to put another new fuel pump in it. Turns out, the fuel line segment that came with the Airco fuel pump that I installed, had swelled and leaked. All he knew is there was insufficient pressure/flow, so he bought another pump and then found that crappy line attached to the pump that I had installed.

Not saying that is your problem, but it does sound like your pump quits pumping. I believe on yours, the distributor sends the PIP signal to the PCM to keep the pump running.

Since you aren't afraid to run a power wire....Quick way to rule out whether the PIP signal is missing is to disconnect the inertia switch. Run a power wire to the inertia switch plug (it'll be one of the two pins) and hear the pump run constantly. Start it and see if it stays running.

Don't over think it though. It could be as simple as a bad fuel pump relay (which you'll be bypassing if you do the inertia switch wire trick).
 
Alright the pump will stay on, so I tried to crank it and it still would not run, but the pump will pump real good with plenty of pressure.
 
Ok I think that it may be the fuel injectors. What could cause them not to work properly?
 
The PCM controls the injector pulses based on the PIP signal from the distributor to the ICM to the PCM.

Use a noid light to see if injectors are getting pulsed power (actually gets grounds, but the noid light should flash). If you aren't getting that, my best guess is a bad hall effect sensor in the distributor or more likely a bad ICM. It's gonna be tricky to see that in the short period from Crank to Run when it dies.

I'd suggest you verify whether you have spark or not at that time too. The ICM (ignition control module) is a common failure item and most Auto Parts stores can test them. They are also sensitive to being properly grounded to the distributor, using all the screws. It is the common component for spark and injectors.

Hoping someone esle will chime in for you because you've exhausted my limited knowledge. Make sure that the small Bat- ground wire to the radiator core support is good.
 
I am getting fire through the spark plugs but they are not getting hardly any gas at all. I don't have a noid light, but I'm looking into getting one so that I can test them.
 
Is it possible to bypass any or all of the sensors that has anything to do with the gas and air mixture?
 
I have found a problem, but still not sure if it is the problem. I can unplug the Mas airflow sensor and the truck will set there and idle just as smooth without missing a beat, but when you plug it up it goes dead. The truck will still not rev though with or without the sensor plugged up.
 

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