Ranger truggy

[ellabilt]

Here's some new pictures of the Ranger. I've got the suspension mostly done except for shock mounts. Boxed in the ends of the frame. Extended the front driveshaft (still have to shorten the rear shaft). Traded some junk for some 33's. I've got two generic mud tires, one swamper, and one all-terrain . I had to move it outside to work on some other stuff for a while. It's going on hold for a couple of weeks.
She sure is UGLY!!!

 

[86isuzu]

She sure is UGLY!!!

i'd have to agree . looks like its gonna be a sick wheelin rig tho.

 

[goldxlt]

wow that is the first time ive seen leafs set up like that, looks kindof neat.

 

[Rulebreaker]

I love a rig built to beat! Reminds me of my 89 B2. Where are you going to put the radiator? RB

 

[kunar]

well you obviously moved the rear axle forward, but it sounds like you also moved the front axle forward as well? it should have amazing approach/departure angles and those rear springs look like they will be super flexy

 

[ellabilt]

The radiator will be rear mounted, protected by the not-yet-begun 1.75X.120 HREW cage. Yes, I moved the rear up, pushed the front end out just a little. Using the quarter-elliptical rear setup and retaining the TTB (resisting a SAS) allowed me to cut the frame back for negative approach and departure angles. I still need to move the cab back about 6in. to redistribute weight a little. My goal is to make this as effective as possible for as little $$$ as possible. I'm using modified stock parts wherever I can. I don't have $$$ to spend on a trail rig, so I'll only buy parts if I can't possibly make it myself or scrounge it up somewhere. Yes, it's BUILT TO BEAT!!!!

 

[Rulebreaker]

The radiator will be rear mounted, protected by the not-yet-begun 1.75X.120 HREW cage. Yes, I moved the rear up, pushed the front end out just a little. Using the quarter-elliptical rear setup and retaining the TTB (resisting a SAS) allowed me to cut the frame back for negative approach and departure angles. I still need to move the cab back about 6in. to redistribute weight a little. My goal is to make this as effective as possible for as little $$$ as possible. I'm using modified stock parts wherever I can. I don't have $$$ to spend on a trail rig, so I'll only buy parts if I can't possibly make it myself or scrounge it up somewhere. Yes, it's BUILT TO BEAT!!!!

Where do you live? I see snow but not allot. RB

 

[Hahnsb2]

Looks good but you should swap that D28 for a 35...

 

[ellabilt]

Where do you live? I see snow but not allot. RB

Little Indiana town of about 400 people called Amo. About 30 miles west of Indianapolis.

 

[ellabilt]

Looks good but you should swap that D28 for a 35...

Thanks,
Yes, I should swap out the D28 and the 7.5 but I'm gonna see how long they last and replace them as I break them.

 

[spdcrazy]

now that looks like its gonna get some use.. i would love to craw over some huge rock ledges in that short thing. looks great. and i love the gas tank keg!!!

 

[red85]

I love it. Can't wait to see more progress on this one. Where did you get the keg? How many gallons will it hold?

 

[ellabilt]

thanks guys, I you can see past the ugly! (it will look much better when it's done and I throw some paint on it, camo maybe?) I think a keg holds 15 or 16 gallons, I'm not sure. I haven't put fuel in it yet. I got it from a buddy who had it sitting around. I'm pretty excited about this project, It's fun building with no boundaries.

 

[Loanranger]

Looking good man, I like your creativity. One thing I would suggest is to make a small change with the axle end of your 1/4 eliptic springs. It looks like you don't have any sort of shackle in there? If you make some triple pivot shackles, it will dramatically improve the flex of that system. For one, while the axle moves up and down, it also moves forward and rearward, due to the links. If you don't have a normal shackle in there, it will bind and reduce flex. To reduce binding even more, make a triple pivot, with the center pivot being perpindicular to the top and bottom pivots, this will stop the springs from trying to twist. Here's an example, I took the old ranger shackles, cut them in half, and used just the end that is attached to the spring, to save a little fab time. Then welded this to a piece of square tube, with two "ears" welded to the bottom of this. The ears are about a 1/4 inch apart, and have the end of a leafspring that I cut off, slid in between. This is the center pivot, which has the bolt running front to back. To pop a hole in the spring, I used the plasma cutter, because drilling would have taken days. Then the bottom pivot is the spring eye between two tabs welded to the axle. If you cut it right, you could use your existing mounts you fabbed up, and just cut them off closer to the axle, and redrill some new holes.

Hope this helps you out a little, and you will definately notice a difference if you put in the triple pivots, I got about another 4-5 inches of flex in the rear axle just by eliminating the spring twist. You might benefit from losing a couple leafs in the pack too.
Keep up the good work.

 

[ellabilt]

thanks for the input. The reason I didn't shackle the springs is they also serve as the upper links. I do know this limits flex, but how much is yet to be determined. If I shackle the springs, I'll need upper links also. If I was going to build a four link, I would have put coils on it. I'm experimenting with a compromise of simplicity and effectiveness. When it is at full droop, it is hanging off of the long main leaf only and seems to twist quite well. I will also remove a couple of leafs and adjust ride height as I add more weight and find out how it's actually going to sit. I appreciate the advice!
Brad