Rangebe...version 2.0

[-Nathan-]

yes. this will be the front axle that will stay in this truck.

 

[4.0B2]

yes. this will be the front axle that will stay in this truck.

awesome..
guess my first thought was why not just d60 sas and be done... but... i'm loving this ttb build up. so continue! someone has to do it first so everyone else can figure out if it works or not w/out wasting time/money

keep it up. we'll be watching!

 

[Sunk]

I've been thinking for a while that when I get my next 4x4 Ranger, I kinda want to do something similar to what you've done so far. But now that you'll have some beef TTB... I really want to.

 

[kroussinoffroad]

AWSOME!!! i cant believe i missed this build

 

[-Nathan-]

lots of grinding later.....

 

[disciplerocks]

Nice work. I like where you are going.

 

[legoms013]

lots of grinding later.....

Looks factory. Good job.

 

[-Nathan-]

I figured since a number people actually seem interested in this project, I would post a few more details concerning the axle fab.

There are a couple key measurements that MUST remain the same as original.

The ball joint mounting surface to surface is 7 5/8" on the 50, this has to remain in order to get the knuckle ball joints to seat properly. EDIT: camera angle skewed the measurement...7 5/8" is the correct measurement)

Now, I am sure there are a number of ways to measure and cut up the 50, but this is the way that I did it. I didnt have enough scrap steel laying around to make a jig, so I used what I had, and it turned out great.


Make sure the beam is sitting flat (parallel to floor)

Take a u-bolt (make sure its straight) or something similar and put it through the ball joints.

Make sure that it is exactly perpendicular to the beam (and floor), and secure it in place.

Now, you have a reference from which to measure from. Line up a square at the top of the flare, in the same plane as the ball joint mating surface. I found that setting the other side of the square 2 1/4" from the BJ centerline was perfect. Draw a line.

Then measure 5 1/2" down from the top line, and draw another.

You end up with this,

Do this for both sides, and cut it. I only have an angle grinder, so that is what I used. As far as Im concerned, this is best anyways, as you can get a much straighter line with a grinder than you can a sawzall or plasma.

Once you have the 50 piece cut out, get your 44 beam. Recreate the same measurements on the 44. Use the same technique as with the 50. Cut it out, and test fit the 50 lower BJ socket.

The best way to do this is to tack it in place in a couple spots, and see if the knuckle will seat in place.

Make sure the BJ to BJ surface remains at 7 5/8", and that the BJ socket planes are parallel.


I also finished grinding on the passenger beam, it is ready for plating

Questions?

 

[86 slo-vo]

Any reason you didn't space out the lower bj's for extra lift?

 

[Kyle M.]

Like a cut an turn?

 

[86 slo-vo]

Yea. I know the brackets he has are only for 1.5" lift

 

[-Nathan-]

I didnt move the ball joint location as I wanted to keep the upper ball joint position relative to the beam. This helped in keeping the BJ to BJ measurements the same.

The lift brackets will only get me about 1.5 inches of lift, which will not be enough.

I havent decided yet, but I will either do a cut and turn, or modify the lift brackets.

 

[86 slo-vo]

I just figured it would've been easier to work the the "cut and turn" into your measurements, but I could be wrong I'm no math wiz.

It looks good, I'm interested in how well it all works.

 

[-Nathan-]

Yeah thanks.

Cut and turn at the BJ is good and all, but I am not a big fan, as when you change the angulation of the BJ relative to the diff, it places the stub shaft in a lower position than normal. In order to correct this the diff has to be clocked. There is a lot to it in order to get it done correctly.

If I do decide to cut and turn, I will do it at the pivot end, and will be a max of 2" lift from it. I know people have had problems in the past doing a c&t at the pivot end, but with such little change, it shouldnt be an issue.

 

[-Nathan-]

Bit of an update.

I cut apart the drivers side 50 and 44, and pieced them together. After fitment, I burned in a couple sections. However, as the axleshaft on the drivers side cannot change length due to the fixed pig, I wanted to assemble the outer and check for binding issues at the u joint.

This is what I found....

The stub shaft is sitting too far out towards the knuckle, so the u joint is not in line with the ball joints, and spindle cannot engage the knuckle.

What I neglected to take into consideration is that the drivers side axleshaft on the 50 is LONGER than the 44.

So I busted out the square and took some more measurements.

I initially thought I could simply trim the end of the splines on the axleshaft. There are 1 3/4" of splines.

The side gear has 1 3/8" of spline. HOWEVER, the distance from the side gear to cross pin is 3/8". Thus, the axleshaft was already fully engaged, and there is no excess to trim.

So, the solution....extend the beam. I will finish welding up the axle where it is, and then cut it around the square portion closer to the diff. This will make it very easy to place a portion of the old beam and perfectly space out the inner C.

Now the problem is, how much do I extend the beam? If you look at the thickness of the knuckle, engagement of the spindle, and where the stub shaft flange meets up with the back of the spindle, it is 1 1/8".

This is confirmed by assembling everything...

Since there is 3/8" between the end of the side gear and start of the cross pin, I will add half of this distance to the overall extension. This will allow for a bit of a fudge factor, and room for adjustment.

Also, just for confirmation, the Dana 50 pig DOES bolt up to the 44 arm. The 2 side bolts are larger than the 44 pig, and so those holes have to be drilled out to a larger size.

I have to finish welding up the C, and then cut it apart and extend it. Will hope to have that finished by the weekend, but need to get more gas for my welder.

Cheers