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Radius arms have play...


GaryWoz

Member
Joined
Mar 1, 2021
Messages
13
City
Coos Bay, Oregon
Vehicle Year
1989
Transmission
Automatic
I recently installed a 4" rough country suspension lift on my 89 ranger xlt , now I have play in the radius arms and the front axle roles forward and backwards, can I add more spacer or bushings or do I need to get different radius arms made for 4" lift ?
 
Can you post pictures somehow of what you’re experiencing? The radius arms bolt pretty solidly to the axle beams and should not allow any rolling movement at that juncture.
 
A 4" lift should have a radius arm crossmember drop as part of it, if there's any play at the radius arm bushings then just change them, they're cheap and easy if you have the crossmember able to unbolt now... I'm not sure what you mean by the axle rolls... I'm with Eric on needing pictures or something...
 
Thank you for your response both of you . I actually figured it out the next day , I took a look at a truck with new bushings and knew right away mine were shot. Everything is looking good now I just gotta get tires . I'll post pics when I can.
Good job.
 
Do you know which t I'm supposed to get to hook up brake lines on drivers side. I got one that everything was right except the male connection had wrong threads.
Any time I’ve done that, the Tee was part of the driver side hose assembly. Ordered normal ones from RockAuto. Ordered extended lines (after lifting the truck) from Skyjacker(maybe?)
 
Somewhere in the tech library there is a thing on longer brake lines from I think a '95 Suburban which is what I did, I had to change the nuts at the end of the hard lines up front and put a Tee on the drivers side which if memory serves involved running a thread die over the tee to convert from the 1/8" NPT to 3/8"-24? (whatever 3/8" fine thread is, don't remember right now), been working fine for over 10 years and pretty much only wheeling it...

In the back we stuck a shock bushing between the frame rail and the bracket lowering it down that couple inches, that has also worked just fine...
 
Somewhere in the tech library there is a thing on longer brake lines from I think a '95 Suburban which is what I did, I had to change the nuts at the end of the hard lines up front and put a Tee on the drivers side which if memory serves involved running a thread die over the tee to convert from the 1/8" NPT to 3/8"-24? (whatever 3/8" fine thread is, don't remember right now), been working fine for over 10 years and pretty much only wheeling it...

In the back we stuck a shock bushing between the frame rail and the bracket lowering it down that couple inches, that has also worked just fine...
[/QUOT
Somewhere in the tech library there is a thing on longer brake lines from I think a '95 Suburban which is what I did, I had to change the nuts at the end of the hard lines up front and put a Tee on the drivers side which if memory serves involved running a thread die over the tee to convert from the 1/8" NPT to 3/8"-24? (whatever 3/8" fine thread is, don't remember right now), been working fine for over 10 years and pretty much only wheeling it...

In the back we stuck a shock bushing between the frame rail and the bracket lowering it down that couple inches, that has also worked just fine...
Ok , that's what I did but it just screwed up the threads on the tee. I'm gonna buy a new tap and die set and try again . I think the one I used wasn't sharp enough. Thanks
 
Any time I’ve done that, the Tee was part of the driver side hose assembly. Ordered normal ones from RockAuto. Ordered extended lines (after lifting the truck) from Skyjacker(maybe?)
I got brake lines off rockauto for a 95 chevy 2500 , hooked right up to passenger side but the tee I got for drivers side had wrong threads. Thanks I'm gonna try rethreading another one with new tap and die set
 
If memory serves I had to run the die down the right way then flip it around and go again the wrong way to get all the way down to go onto the brake line... I'm sure I used the third step up in the Harbor Freight line of tap/die sets, the one that is metric and standard in one kit, it's better than the ones that are separate... but even a single die even at a parts store is going to be like $7 so it's cheaper to go that route for a good die...
 
Maybe that's what I need to do also , I ran a die once and it only went half way . I was gonna just take the new brake hose down to parts store or hardware store and test til one works ..Thanks ..
 

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