• Welcome Visitor! Please take a few seconds and Register for our forum. Even if you don't want to post, you can still 'Like' and react to posts.

radius arm nut stripped on beam side


swynx

Well-Known Member
Joined
Mar 26, 2008
Messages
2,401
Age
33
City
lewiston idaho
Vehicle Year
1994
Transmission
Manual
went to the mountains, went down a really rocky road. it was 11 miles each way. heard a rattling sound, when i looked the bolt that goes into the beam on the drivers side was about half way out and the nut that holds the spring in on the top was also loose. i tried tightening the radius arm nut but its stripped.

not sure if the hole or the bolt is stripped but it wont hold any weight. would it be okay to weld it? i might try to re-thread it.
 
Are you talking about the radius arm that goes into the radius arm bracket (under the cab), or the 7/8" diameter bolt that runs through the TIB/TTB and holds the spring in (with a washer and a nut)?

If it's in either, I would say "yes," you can weld it for a temporary fix.

For the spring bolt, that's not a problem.

For the radius arm bracket & bolt, then I would be very careful. It will rub on the bracket, eventually wallow and tear up the radius arm bushings and washers and it'll just slip through that hole again with time and heavy use. You'll just be back to square one again. It needs to both rotate AND pivot.

On that note, I will be ifnishing up my SAS in a week or two. Would you like replacement parts from my old D35 TTB?
 
There is a big nut inside the beam on 4x4. Most likely the tack welds broke. If you take the knuckle off the beam, you can get a wrench inside so you can tighten it up. Then reweld that nut back to the beam.
 
Are you talking about the radius arm that goes into the radius arm bracket (under the cab), or the 7/8" diameter bolt that runs through the TIB/TTB and holds the spring in (with a washer and a nut)?

If it's in either, I would say "yes," you can weld it for a temporary fix.

For the spring bolt, that's not a problem.

For the radius arm bracket & bolt, then I would be very careful. It will rub on the bracket, eventually wallow and tear up the radius arm bushings and washers and it'll just slip through that hole again with time and heavy use. You'll just be back to square one again. It needs to both rotate AND pivot.

On that note, I will be ifnishing up my SAS in a week or two. Would you like replacement parts from my old D35 TTB?

its the 7/8s bolt, i can tighten it up, all the way and get a little bit of torque on it, like maybe 25 lbs, but when i drove it out of the garage it just pushed the bolt out again, so i thought maybe welding it might work. but iether way ill need a new beam.

if i could get new beams, possible. have you regeared? im really interested in a d35 with a different set of gears.
 
its the 7/8s bolt, i can tighten it up, all the way and get a little bit of torque on it, like maybe 25 lbs, but when i drove it out of the garage it just pushed the bolt out again, so i thought maybe welding it might work. but iether way ill need a new beam.

if i could get new beams, possible. have you regeared? im really interested in a d35 with a different set of gears.

Ah, I see. Yea, weld away at the spring then.

I HAVE regeared, and if you want the Nitro 4.88 gears in the front, that won't be a problem. I run that 4.88's on 35's with the 4.0L and it goes like a scalded ape. It is perfect for rocks and trails. They gears still look brand new. If you don't want the gears, then pulling the pumpkin is no problem, too.

Swynx, what's your current setup?
 
Swynx, I just found this:

http://www.therangerstation.com/forums/showthread.php?t=152065

4.88's would be perfect for you with 35's.

In my opinion, I wouldn't go with 37's. They stress the wheel bearings and joints way too much. Unless you're easy on the throttle and do things like mud, 37's and rock crawling is asking for trouble down the line. Just my $ 0.02.

Pete
 
im currently running 33s with 3.73. stock springs shimmed up, but going to replace them. by the end of next month i should have a little bit of money put together to buy replacement parts.
 
On my last 4.0L Ranger, I ran 33's with a 3.08 gear and the washer spring lift. :rofl: I had 22 mpg cruising at 70 mph...

What replacement parts are you getting?
 
i havent inspected my beam yet, but if its bad i want to pick up a new beam, id be interested in a d35 pumpkin with gears in it. i also need to figure out something for radius arms, my passenger side beam is all messed up because no one ever replaced the bushing in 300k+
 
you where right, the welded nut on the inside broke loose. i just grabbed a nut from fastenal that fit the threads. thanks for the help
 

Sponsored Ad


Sponsored Ad

TRS Events

Member & Vendor Upgrades

For a small yearly donation, you can support this forum and receive a 'Supporting Member' banner, or become a 'Supporting Vendor' and promote your products here. Click the banner to find out how.

Recently Featured

Want to see your truck here? Share your photos and details in the forum.

Ranger Adventure Video

TRS Merchandise

Follow TRS On Instagram

TRS Sponsors


Sponsored Ad


Sponsored Ad


Amazon Deals

Sponsored Ad

Back
Top