radiator leak sealer plugged heater core?

[swynx]

Bought some barsleakes from Walmart cuz the car was dripping fluid off the sub frame but I couldn't locate the actual leaking spot. Put half in the car half in the truck well now the low coolant light is on constant because the barsleakes plugged it up and now the heater isn't working. Possible it plugged ththat up to? I was going to flush it and add more 50/50

 

[86 slo-vo]

Not sure what to tell you, other then I hope this is lesson learned and to stay away from that stuff.

 

[lil_Blue_Ford]

Yep, that stuff has a tendency to cause more problems than it solves.

 

[adsm08]

Both are common issues with Barrs. It plugs up heater cores because the small passages in there can't handle that amount of stopper. Sometimes it plugs up the radiator too.

As for the coolant light, most of those sensors are resistance based. The coolant gets low, the conductive float sinks, closes the circuit. Well Barrs has a lot of metal in it and it closes the circuit.

You need to get that garbage out of the cooling system. Last time I dealt with that was on a Caddi DTS. I drained and refilled that cooling system three times before the light went out.

GM has these organic fiber-type stop leak tabs. They aren't conductive, I've never had issues with them plugging heater cores, and they work wonderfully. It's been a few years since I needed any, but last time I bought them they were only like $5 a pack.

On some of the Caddi engines you have to use them when you do head gaskets or they will pour coolant out the sides.

 

[lil_Blue_Ford]

Both are common issues with Barrs. It plugs up heater cores because the small passages in there can't handle that amount of stopper. Sometimes it plugs up the radiator too.

As for the coolant light, most of those sensors are resistance based. The coolant gets low, the conductive float sinks, closes the circuit. Well Barrs has a lot of metal in it and it closes the circuit.

You need to get that garbage out of the cooling system. Last time I dealt with that was on a Caddi DTS. I drained and refilled that cooling system three times before the light went out.

GM has these organic fiber-type stop leak tabs. They aren't conductive, I've never had issues with them plugging heater cores, and they work wonderfully. It's been a few years since I needed any, but last time I bought them they were only like $5 a pack.

On some of the Caddi engines you have to use them when you do head gaskets or they will pour coolant out the sides.

Sounds like a great engine design... "yea, if you don't add some stop-leak, it's practically warrantied TO leak." Nice one....

 

[adsm08]

Sounds like a great engine design... "yea, if you don't add some stop-leak, it's practically warrantied TO leak." Nice one....

It's GM, you were expecting something quality?

I believe that is also the same block that has issues with the threads for the head bolts pulling out because they are aluminum and takes something like 40-odd hours to do head gaskets.


A guy I used to work with told me about that one. He did head gaskets on one once, got it all together, and fired it. Coolant just started pouring down the block, so he called the group's GM dealer, asked WTF, and they said "Well did you put the stop-leak tabs in it?"

 

[swynx]

Had no idea that stuff was so bad

 

[swynx]

Any thing I can add to the radiator fluid to help flush that stuff out

 

[BRUTUS_T_HOG]

It's GM, you were expecting something quality?

I believe that is also the same block that has issues with the threads for the head bolts pulling out because they are aluminum and takes something like 40-odd hours to do head gaskets.

Yeah I did one. I will NEVER touch another. Every single bolt hole had pulled threads. We had to get the $600 time-sert kit and it took 6hrs in vehicle.

I had a coworker that when he got hired he told the boss "if you give me a North Star to work on I will load up my tools and leave"

 

[lil_Blue_Ford]

It's GM, you were expecting something quality?

I believe that is also the same block that has issues with the threads for the head bolts pulling out because they are aluminum and takes something like 40-odd hours to do head gaskets.


A guy I used to work with told me about that one. He did head gaskets on one once, got it all together, and fired it. Coolant just started pouring down the block, so he called the group's GM dealer, asked WTF, and they said "Well did you put the stop-leak tabs in it?"

No, I wasn't really expecting quality out of GM. But for the cost of a caddy you'd think it would be at least a LITTLE better than that.

 

[swynx]

What's gonna be the best way to flush that shit out? So far I've filled the radiator 3 times with hot water allowing the fluid to sit and run thru the systems a few minutes before I drain it. But there's still a shit tom of residue in the fill

 

[dangerranger83]

Replace it all and lesson learned.

Sent from my rooted SPH-D710 using Tapatalk 2

 

[bigmark303]

What's gonna be the best way to flush that shit out? So far I've filled the radiator 3 times with hot water allowing the fluid to sit and run thru the systems a few minutes before I drain it. But there's still a shit tom of residue in the fill

Take the radiator hose from the top of the radiator to water pump and stuff your garden hose in there with the engine running and heat fully on. Disconnect the lower return hose from the radiator so it does not flush back into the radiator. Run it like that for 10 minutes. don't worry nothing will overheat with all the brand new water running through.

Flush the radiator separate before you put it all back together. Refill with distilled water and run it through with engine running and heat on high for 20 minutes. Then drain everything out the bottom of the radiator. Then refill with coolant and call it done if the water came out clean.

On another note you guys must have missed the bulletin GM sent out three years back for the 5.7 and 6.0 engines. The bulletin said that the engines were, get ready for it.... DESIGNED TO BURN OIL AFTER ABOUT 80,000 MILES!!! and for owners not to be alarmed that they lose a quart or more between oil changes.

 

[Andy D]

Prestone sells a back flushing tee that you put into the htr return hose. When I over dosed with the powdered aluminum, it clogged the htr core on my Valiant. I just flipped the htr hoses at the core. Barsleak has the brown stuff that looks like rabbit turds in brown goop. I use to use a half jar at atme on a BMW with a core leak. It didn't fix the trouble , but it slowed t down to manageable leak. It was a GM factory fill for awhile. Makes you wanna rush out and buy a GM, doesn't it?