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radiator and fan question


i was leaning somewhere to that design, just wasnt sure what size filter to use and such. i never thought about running the oil cooler and filter together tho, makes sense i just figured the flow restriction from the filter would starve other components, guess not if i have a good filter. thanks for informing me about the oil fitting on the rear of the engine, didnt know it was there, ill see how easy it is to get to (or not to get to, prob do the fittings b4 i reinstall the engine.) im going to get an oil fed turbo, the sealed bearing ones you change too much, bearing get hot and spin too easy/soon. i hated changing those things, oil fed turbos are a lot more reliable. thanx for the info, im still going to look for a larger oil pan tho, ive been digging and finding some really interesting things here and there. i may never find one, but ill still look just incase, just like i found the custom mafs, i think i may be able to find something that will work/help out. thanx for the info. one more thing, anybody ever experimented/have experience w/ the multiple blade aluminum fans? im looking at a 7 blade flexalite, any info on those?
 
The mechanical fan will be stronger, and more efficient!


i have been using an electric fan for 4 years , zero problems, and towing is better and fuel mileage is also better.

i just towed a trailer with a snowmobile on it up north , 202 miles one way. and another snowmobile in the bed, the trans never got over 190 degrees and i got 240 miles on a full tank, 16.5 gallons. do the math.

i put my stock fan back on last summer due to mud packing in my radiator, i took it off less then a week later and made a bracket to mount the electric fan to my stock shroud. this was due to a major power loss and mpg loss also!

bob has no experience or real world testing to back up his opinions.
 
i got 16 MPG towing a 3,000lb enclosed utility trailer, with a 200lb topper and 150lbs in the bed from alaska to washington through the canadian rockies. unloaded, i average between 22-24.

you havnt gained anything with an e-fan.

hes also looking at pushing 300HP which is twice the power you an i are making...hes going to need the power of a mechanical fan to keep it cool.
 
i realize that efans have their benefits and the entire motorcycle/atv/utv industry uses efans and efans alone, thats why i considered them in the first place. the reason i wanted to go that way was for clearance issues but the more i look the more i realize i wont have to do anything drastic to clear anything. im looking at a replacement aluminum mechanical fan (possibly, if not im staying stock) simply cuz i dont feel like spending 200 bux on an efan i dont need when the stock one or a 50 dollar aluminum replacement will do. im looking for efficiency, if the stock will do fine, and if its not broke im not fixing it. i need all the efficiency for my wallet as possible as i am still gathering funds for the parts, just going thru and making a list of what i need and dont need and looking at the best way to go about everything to ensure that this is a timely and smooth build.
 
and btw if were talking mileage my lil beat up 3.0 automatic at 280000 miles got 28 mpg hwy w/ the custom air intake, exhaust and removal of the a/c. still has the mechanical fan on it too! goes to show routine maintenance goes a long way as well. thats 380 miles to 13.5 gals of gas (from quarter to full on my tank.) i do a lot of hwy driving, and a good bit of those miles on my trk are interstate.
 
I used to have a 69 Beetle with a turbo and I strongly suggest You run an oil radiator after the Turbo and before the oil pan. If you do not cool down the oil before it gets picked up by the oil pump again you WILL be creating a hazardous oil breakdown condition. Trust me. I broke down two engines before I finaly solved the problem doing this. My last engine lasted three years as a daily driver and I was puting some 85 miles a day in my old beetle.
Now since the return line will be run by gravity I suggest also You be carful with the location of the turbo as you don't create resistance to the flow of oil with the oil cooler.
 
running the oil directly to the pan is fine. if he plumbs it like i suggested, after the oil is picked up by the pump, the oil is filtered hot, which reduces pressure drop through the filter. it then runs through the oil cooler BEFORE it runs through the motor...so the oil is cooled down to increase its viscosity and bring it to a cooler operating temperature before it does back through the engine and picks up engine heat. this isnt an air cooled motor...the oils cooling effect isnt as vital as it was on your bug.
 
i have been using an electric fan for 4 years , zero problems, and towing is better and fuel mileage is also better.

i just towed a trailer with a snowmobile on it up north , 202 miles one way. and another snowmobile in the bed, the trans never got over 190 degrees and i got 240 miles on a full tank, 16.5 gallons. do the math.

i put my stock fan back on last summer due to mud packing in my radiator, i took it off less then a week later and made a bracket to mount the electric fan to my stock shroud. this was due to a major power loss and mpg loss also!

bob has no experience or real world testing to back up his opinions.

HI!... Ya I had the same experience. My 435H.P (flywheel) F-150 ran cooler with electric fans, so does my Ranger. My buddies 500H.P SUPRA, 465H.P SKYLINE, 800H.P CAMARO (True street car) also the fastest LTI, 6-SPEED car in north america, 450H.P GRAND NATIONAL all run better, cooler, and get better MPG with the addition of electric fans. A friend just did a twin electric fan conversion on his F-150 a few weeks ago. He already has gained 2-3 mpg. :icon_thumby:
 
i know they are proven just dont want to spend the xtra money if they arent required. if i have temp probs ill look into a pusher fan, but right now im sticking to mechanical. the 1200hp twin turbo skyline r34 an old friend of mine had has a mechanical fan w/ a pusher and an oil cooler half the size of the radiator. id ask him but i lost contact w/ him yrs ago about how he ran his for pointers.
 
I can figure out how an e-fan works without throwing money away on one

OMG!!:icon_rofl:

Are you saying that you've posted all of these opinions & even argued with others that actually have electric fans, But you've never even run an electric fan!!! :icon_confused: How can you possibly have an opinion with any merit?

If you were my kid I'd slap you up side the head!! :icon_confused:

It's one thing to base your opinion on actual personal experience, but to argue with others who've got experience when you have none!?

What else do you think you know?:idiot:
 
nothing personal but poke fun at other ppl on somebody elses post, im looking for information and honest opinions here.
 
OMG!!:icon_rofl:

Are you saying that you've posted all of these opinions & even argued with others that actually have electric fans, But you've never even run an electric fan!!! :icon_confused: How can you possibly have an opinion with any merit?

If you were my kid I'd slap you up side the head!! :icon_confused:

It's one thing to base your opinion on actual personal experience, but to argue with others who've got experience when you have none!?

What else do you think you know?:idiot:

You must be another one that doesn't have an engineering background at all!

One thing with an engineering background, it's easy to figure things out, without spending money to find out they don't work. One thing is very obvious when comparing a mechanical fan to an e-fan-----just look at the difference in blade area, and the pitch on the blades. The mechanical fan blade area is MUCH larger than an e-fan! On top of that, the MAX speed of an e-fan is 1900-2000RPMS!
 
HI!... Ya not even worth the aggravation. It's not worth it.

So TEE REV, hows those electric fans working out for ya?
 
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