race motor

[skimmer]

ok people...I'm new to this forum and 2.3's in particular but I plan on racing an offroad truck in a division where you can only run 4 cyl. 2wd trucks.
I need your help to build a 2.3l SOHC with at least 150hp/150tq (thats what the chevy guys are prolly getting out of the 2.2l). Here's the rule book:
-Engine must use stock rods and crankshaft for that engine; rod bolts maybe replaced with ARP, crankshaft may be reground to stock stroke only
-Block maybe bored .030", stock OEM design pistons for that engine maybe installed, no forged pistons allowed.
-No lightening or knife edging or crankshaft allowed.
-No lightening or polishing of rods allowed, may be balanced
-Cylinder head must remain stock, screw in studs allowed, oversize valves allowed to repair worn seats, no under sizing of valve stems, no porting of head. Blending of bowl under valve for 1/4" to repair allowed, port matching of 1/4" to match intake allowed. Stainless valves allowed, must use stock stem diameter, no race flow valves allowed. Head can be resurfaced for clean up only, maximum machining is .075"
-Aftermarket camshaft allowed, maximum lift is .600 at the valve, roller, mechanical lifter or hydraulic lifter allowed
-Aftermarket valve train is allowed. No titanium parts.
-Any wet sump oil pan allowed, no dry sump systems.
-Internal engine mods are legal but remain factory stroke and a maximum of .030 overbore.
-Aftermarket internal engine hardware is allowed (ARP bolts, etc)
-Any header or intake may be used.
-Single cam engines may use aftermarket or fabricated intake manifold with one central mounted carburetor of a maximum 500cfm or 44 Weber carb with 42mm venturies electric fuel pump allowed
-Stock fuel injection is allowed. No aftermarket injectors, chips, etc.
-Dual cam engines must retain factory fuel injection. No carburetors allowed.
-Removal of smog equipment OK.
NO TURBO, SUPERCHARGER or NITROUS

What block, head, crank, pistons, rods, cam, etc. combination would you put together for this. I'd like to stay to a low budget with no real exotic stuff. Want to run carb and already have an MSD for a rev limiter. Thanx in advance and Sorry for the long post!

 

[gw33gp]

You have taken away all the things I know to get power. You are dealing with what SCCA calls basically a limited prep engine. I would take advantage of the .075 removal on the head to get as much compression as you can. Use the maximum valve size you can. Find someone that really knows these engines and how to build a state-of-the-art cam for them with these limitations. You will also need to utilize the open intake and header rules to your advantage. Be careful though, you can easily over do the intake and headers with the other limitations you have that can actually end up robbing power.

Do you have any limitation on fuel? There are some very exotic fuels (oxygenated) that can bump the power a little. Some of them are toxic and I never have considered them. They can be very expensive too. If you can run alcohol, you might be able to get a little more power with it. Other wise make sure you have enough octane for the compression you are running as well as the ignition timing you want.

 

[Mutant Pony]

Use the '89 and newer Ranger block, '88 and older EFI head (D-port) and lower intake. You can buy an adapter for a carb from Racer walsh or you can fab one pretty easy. Racer walsh can also supply you with all the valve train pieces including a cam. Get a good header and run at least 3 feet of pipe. Racer walsh and Esslinger have tech pages and tons of parts that you can use. Check the tech library here for more.
Oh, by the way, Welcome to TRS!

 

[RaceRanger97]

Sorry Im no help to your question but what Division are you planning in racing in? I am trying to get into offroad racing myself. I didnt know there was a class specifically for 4 cyl trucks

 

[skimmer]

Thanx for the info so far. I'm willing to hear any other suggestions too. Even just 'tricks' to help keep it together and such. Oil control a problem? I'm so used to small/big block chevys. This is all new to me. Sponsor wants a ford and I prefer rangers anyways (twin I beam) so it works for me. Everyone is running an S10, some even with eco-techs. Don't have the coin for that. So is the 150/150 out of reach? No alchohol too! But can run race fuel. I looked at the tech section, lots of info, but nothing as far as combinations. Thanx Mutantpony and gw33gp, great stuff. Is the '89 block itself better or the long block in total, cause i can use reciprocating assembly from 1 to another. Might have an older block and will use new 'stock style' .030 pistons, or will look for newer block if it's better.
RaceRanger...I see your in Fresno...sorry this is in Canada...wish I could help. Not as spectacular as CORR Pro2 but really competative and exciting in it's own right.

 

[Mutant Pony]

The '89 and newer block and crank are smaller main journal than the older ones. They hold up better. The 2300 ford is a tough little motor, they don't have any bottom end oiling problems. They sometimes have top end oiling problems. Mostly cam related with the flat tappet cams. They oil the lobes through the camshaft and the oil holes are tiny and get plugged easy. Don't spend money on a high volume oil pump unless you plan on running really lose clearances. A blueprinted stock pump will handle a marginal clearance.
Since you are restricted to stock bottom end, Get a set of ARP rod bolts. Don't even think about it, just do it. With the recipe I gave you above and a cam in the .480-.500 range you should be right around 150 H.P.
The 2.2 s-10 motor is no comparison to a 2.3 Ford. If they can manage 150hp they won't have durability anywhere close to your engine. The Eco tech is a different story but, Ford has the Duratec.
You are right about the TIB. Offroad racing is the only place that they are better. An S-10 can't develop the speed that a TIB can. Jeep springs! Your tires will sit with a little negative camber but thats OK.
You need the lowest rear gears that you can find. 4.10s were made factory but, you could use lower. 4.56 is the lowest aftermarket gear for the 7.5 that is what I would use. Weld the spiders, weld the side gears to the diff housing.

 

[shadetree]

Esslinger has a tech line that will help you with what you need.

www.esslingeracing.com

shady

 

[skimmer]

Thanx Shadetree...site is bookmarked.
Mutant thanx...your info is what i'm after. I figured since it's a SOHC i could buzz the heck out of it and have to gear it low to pull it out of the corners. 4.56 was what i was thinking too but i think i'll go 8.8 rearend. The jeep springs peaked my interest too. TJ springs? More clarity plz. I gotta use stock (not bent) i beams and mounting points but springs rates (front and rear) are open and i can run multiple shocks per corner. I can beef up the mounting locations as well. Fenders and boxsides are just gonna be skins too. What travel can I get 'stock'. Any info in this dept would be usefull too.

 

[Mutant Pony]

The only reason you would need an 8.8 would be for lower gears than 4.56. Otherwise it would be a waste of time and money. I know jack about Jeeps. I have no idea what a TJ is. I know that the front coils from the newer cherokees and wranglers fit, are taller, and softer. You will need to ask someone else for more on that subject, Maybe in the suspension forum?
Keep the motor between 3000 and 6000 and it will be happy.
What size tire do you plan on running?

 

[Super95]

1995 SOHC 2.3L had improved: head design, a roller cam, engine controls, sensors, header, oil pump upgrades among several other small "improvements". 2.5L crankshafts are rumored to be a bolt in(same bearing sizes) but need to use 2.5 rods (pistons the same?) due to increased stroke (same deck height). Or simply start with a 2.5L if rules prohibit. Ford makes several different # fuel injectors that I believe can be swapped. adjustable fuel pressure regulator. Maybe an air adjuster to trick MAF sensor and make use of the bigger injectors. Dual plug heads may be a bigger advantage here, 2 plugs for better efficiency, reliability, or maybe a custom plug, solid(like a bolt) and unused for spark, there only to displace volume and shrink combustion chamber for more compression. Performance ignition modules and air adjuster i imagine are against the rules. Defenitely run a manual trans and a good clutch. Just some ideas.

 

[4b316]

We run a ranger at our local asphalt track(adirondack speedway.com,take a look at our rules)I run a 2.5 98 ranger but a lot of guys run a 2.3 carbed.89-94 block,can't run after 95 or a 2.5 block because of no dist hole,but you could run a crank fired ign.in a newer block.2.5 internals if you can,check your stock rods for weight,they have a good pump.If you have to run stock pistons,run TRW,s and if you can get away with it,run KB flat tops.Have it balanced.88 head and lower intake,good choice of carb.get a stage 2 or 3 roller cam which ever you can swing.Do your bowl work,whack the head whatever you can.Stock TFI dist. will work fine.If you can run a light flywheel,that will help you off the corner.Are you running a off road truck?How far are you jumping?If you are landing hard,the cast steel I beams are the way to go but if you are not landing to hard,try to find 83 sheet metal I beams.These take a lot of weight off the front end.With the stock peices in the motor,probably should limit it to about 7300 for reliability.A 2.2 chevy will run like a bear with some good mods,lost the championship to a 2.2 s-10 this year

 

[Mutant Pony]

My first time 0ffroad Racing I drove a 1/2 ton chevy truck, I took third place but, I felt like i had just went 10 rounds in a boxing ring! everything hurt for a week.
My second race I drove a 2.8 powered '84 Ranger with a 5.5 lift. I took first place and didn't hurt at all, It wasn't much different than driving down a gravel road. I even had the truck 6' in the air at one point. There is a pic in my photobucket somewhere. If you like I can post it.In the pic I was just coming off the main jump so you can see how high it actually was.
I've been around 2.3 Fords for over 25 years, I used to road race them. The engine in the Mutant pony is HIGHLY modified although the bottom end is basically stock.
My boss has a 2.2 chevy project (Cavalier). I have been all through this motor as well. They are nothing compared to a 2.3 Ford.
You absolutly do NOT want to use the TFI dist. It is ok for circle track but, it will not work in an offroad truck. The old dura spark distributor with a MSD OFFROAD 6 ignition box!

 

[skimmer]

Awesome info!!!!

This is great stuff people. Yes this is an Offroad race truck with jumping and rough sections, lefts and rights. I'm gonna start a thread in the suspension section to help me there too. I was gonna run a 2.2 chev cause i'm quite familiar with them but as i said the sponsor wants a ranger and his reasons are valid. Everyone else is driving chev and i like to be diff. I am gonna run a manual and prolly an 8.8 rear with 235/75's to 31" with 4.56 like Mutant suggested (deeper if needed). Wanna stick to a carb and distributor for simplicity (rough tracks/2 days of racing). Info about 95 and up blocks not having a dist. hole very helpfull. The rules at start of thread are what they have so stuff like ignition are wide open. Like I said, prolly use my MSD box i already got. One track requires a chambered muffler. Gimme an idea about the lightweight flywheel: stock part or was it an aftermarket on you were talking about? Stage 2 or 3 roller cam?
Thanx everyone...keep 'em comin!!

 

[skimmer]

Yaa mutant, post the pic plz. Duraspark dist it is. Might make a billet one myself some day too. 400 bucks for an MSD one is crazy. I could make power with the 2.2 chev but was worryed about durability as mutant said. Might have a line on a turbo long block with a steel crank and other good stuff I guess.

 

[4b316]

turbo block is no different,lower compression pistons.If you can use a different flywheel,you might try a alumium flywheel with a steel insert(10,000 RPM,S have one) or a 7.5 dual disc but talk to their sales rep about your offroad shifting.Racer Walsh or Esslingers make stage 2 and 3 roller cams.There is no use going to a big flat tappet cam for the simple reason that you lose 1/3 of your hp gain in friction loss.You will probably want to stay with the cast beams with the jumps but try a set of sheet metal ones in practice to see if they will hold up on landings