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Quick ? with 94 Scab 4x4 Ranger tranny fix


themaxx69

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jun 8, 2009
Messages
54
City
az
Vehicle Year
1994
Transmission
Manual
After doing a clutch on a little front wheel drive mazda protege, I thought my truck would be no problem. BOY, WAS I WRONG! Probably spent a good 10-12 hours so far. That includes couple hours cutting wood blocks from a pallet to put on the motorcycle jack, which is turning out to be a pain.

1994 Ranger Super Cab 4.0 4x4 Mix Skyjacker and james duff lift. 5.5 I think.

Anyways, I finally got the crossmember and transfer case off. Multiple probs there. Got the starter off and clutch line off. Got 7, yes seven bolts out of the tranny, with just a 3/8 ratchet and 1' cheater bar(tube really). That right side top bolt was a bitch, as were most of them really. Can't reach the top left, so I am gonna try 2 2' extensions.

New problem is, I can't get the crossmember back in! I tried hooking tie downs to both sides of the frames and pulling apart, but it wasn't doing anything, then one of the radius shot down to the ground. Do I need to jack the front up off the wheels? I won't get a chance to try for a couple days, so I thought I'd ask.

Also, looks like the tranny will clear the exhaust too.
 
First, this is a truck, not a motorcycle. Why are you using a motorcycle jack?

Second, do you mean you hooked ratchet straps to the outer frame rails and tried to use them like a come-along to stretch the frame rails?

Third, did you ever think about trying to get the two upper bolts from the top?

Fourth and final, how hard is it to get the cross member in and out, 2 bolts, 2 nuts, and if you have the stock on it literally falls on your face. Are you using one of the aftermarket ones that rests up inside the frame rails and those aren't that hard to get in and out, get it up in there and twist it in.
 
Come on. I was hoping for some educated responses here.

For one thing, it is almost impossible to get your hand to get at the top 2 bolts, let alone use any force to loosen them with a regular wrench/ratchet. I have read other people talking about it in other posts. Just wondering if using the 2 24" extensions from the rear is the easiest, or if I can get a special wrench.

And two, it's a james duff crossmember. Like I said, it wont go back in, the 2 frame rails have "squeezed" in a little, it won't go back in. From looking at the way the suspension works, it appears the radius arms are "squeezing" the frame inward, or pulling them inward. Not sure if it is because the alignment is a little off or what.

I'm gonna jack up the front and I'm guessing that will release the pressure on the radius arms and frame. Also, like I said, I was just hoping to get some input from some who had the same prob. I'm not an ASE Master Tech here.
 
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i got the top two bolts from under the hood by reaching behind the distributor on my b2 and using hand wrenches.
 
Hum. I'll see if I can climb up and lay on the engine. Might be able to reach em.
 
I use a 45* offset craftsman Cross-force ratchet wrench from above to get the top two bolts. They are hard to get, from above, from below, from the sides. The only way to make them "easy" to get is to remove the cab, and that is just so much more effort than it's worth.


I had the same clearance issues when I pulled my d-shaft carrier bearing support out. Put it in as bet you can then take a dead-blow hammer to it and make it go where you want it to.

As for my comment about the jack. I miss-read what you put in there. I thought you were jacking the truck up with it. Sorry for the misunderstanding there.
 
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Thanks for the input. Probably should have been more specific about the jack.

So, you just lay on the engine and reach down. I haven't tried yet, but I thought it was too far down.
 
They are nearer the top than you would think. I got them off from the top after failing to get the right angle from the bottom with extensions and a flex. The trick is to tilt the engine to get a little extra room between it and the firewall.:icon_thumby:
 
Good luck with those top bolts! This is where a small body lift is a blessing. Makes things much easier! As far as the frame rails, just use a bottle jack and one of those pallet boards you worked so hard for and spread the rails from the inside. Can't imagine why that would happen unless you have some damage in there from something.

Just a note for next time, I have found that raising and lowering the transmission is MUCH easier with a couple of motorcycle tie down straps slung around the frame rails like a cradle is much easier than using a jack. On a lifted truck, unless you have a special high lift transmission jack, raising and lowering the trans is a PIA. The straps make it easy. The tranny/T-case aren't too heavy and you just work it one end at a time. I was able to raise and lower it by myself without any problems. I tried the motorcycle jack thing and it just didn't work out well.
 
Thanks again. Good idea with the straps. And after this I'm definitely adding a body lift. Was gonna do it anyways so I can go with bigger tires. 35 or 37 inch.

I tried laying on the engine, and it looks like I just might be about to reach that bolt. I see it's not to far, but it's all the crap in the way. I couldn't lay up there for more than 20 seconds or so cause it's like 112 out and the truck is in the sun. Ouch.
 
Run down to Sam's Club and buy yourself a 2" wide Lakewood fan. They run about $10 (last time I checked) and they are AWESOME. We have 2 4.5" fans in the shop at work, one at each end to get a breeze going through. Together they don't do half of what my Lakewood does.
 
Yup. Get that air moving. It sux bawls having to work out in the heat where just standing still has sweat rolling off you and just touching the car burns you. Even more fun when a bee decides to land on your side and then sting you when you put your arm down.

Some air movement makes it all feel a lot better.
 

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