Quick power out of a 2.9???

[BOHBOT]

Now if you along with all the other TRS members who would like to see me 4.0 swap instead of following alternatives cant just accept that what i do to my truck is ultimately up to me, then i'll be out of a so far fairly helpful resource.

You asked for advice, you got advice. Just because it wasn't what you wanted to hear, doesn't mean that it wasn't sound.

Here's the thing: These old engines are pretty simple and not very "tuned down." There isn't a whole lot that you can "bolt on" or fab/rig up externally to increase power before you have to start doing major work to get more power. And by the time you do that much, a swap would've been easier and worth more.

Examples:

1. Quality headers from JBA cost about a grand. Headers are a basic upgrade for power. 4.0 swap could be done cheaper with better results.

2. I just spent more than that on parts, swapping my friggin heads out due to a severe coolant leak, and I didn't even go to World heads. 4.0 swap wouldn't have been too much more work and would've been cheaper. Unfortunately for me, by that point, the swap wasn't an option.

Look at the guys giving advice. They've seen it, done it, or both. You- on the other hand- haven't done crap and know so little that you don't even understand how much knowledge you don't have. Asking them for advice and then arguing with them and criticizing them about it is like walking up and smacking them in the face. I'm surprised that they've been this patient with you. Most boards I've been on would've eaten you alive.

My advise:

Spend some time reading and doing. Fix some stuff. Do a few simple mods. Tinker. Cuss, scream, bust your knuckles, scratch your head, vent your frustrations on a tree with a breaker bar, have a few "oh shit I need a tool and Sears closes in 20 minutes" moments... before you tackle an engine swap. Learn engines and more importantly how to work on engines before you take on something you can't possibly handle and screw yourself over. Nothing is worse than realizing that you don't know what you're doing until it's disassembled and spawled out all over your driveway... and you have to go to work tomorrow.

Now, you can take that as an insult, or you can think about it and learn from it. Your choice.

 

[Gotta_gofast]

[

Disaster Alert!​

1. You set a deadline (little to no downtime). Something is ALWAYS going to interfere with your project. Always expect some unforseen misfortune coming your way whenever you modify, replace, or repair anything. It happens. Especially with little experience, you will be running into all sorts of little (and maybe big) problems. These problems will obviously hold you back from running your vehicle. But they also generally add to the expense of the project. This is true for whatever you decide to do with your truck-or anything else for that matter.

2. By being impatient with the experienced members on this site, this tells me you will most likely become impatient with your project. In order to be a good mechanic, you must have patience and the ability to keep your cool.

A person who is impatient will...
-Rush their work
-Often "rig" the project, sacrificing the quality
-Break things (which costs money)
-Give up on a project
-and be miserable to any who are helping/around him or her

A person who is able to keep their cool will...
-Pay attention to details
-Find alternatives to problems (NOT USING A BIGGER HAMMER on delicate parts)
-and most of all ENJOY THEIR EXPERIENCE

I'm not trying to hurt anyone's feelings, but patience usually comes with age. In highschool, I wanted everything. I worked a part time job in the morning (milk cows), got off school, and went to another part time job in the evening (grocery store). I think I made $300 a week, subtract auto insurance, gas, girl money, ect and I probably had half of that to myself a week. At 16, I bought a 5.0L cobra mustang engine along with its trans and rear end. It would be another year and a half before I finished building it (money was the issue) and another year after that before I found a vehicle to fit it into. I originally was going to purchase a foxbody mustang, but found a sweet deal on a single cab ranger. 8 months later I finally had a ranger with a V8. Drove it for a year or so and now its apart for more go-fast parts. None of this would have happened if I wasn't patient. I would have been like all the other kids my age who took out huge loans to purchase an "already built" car.

 

[Psychopete]

-Rush their work
-Often "rig" the project, sacrificing the quality
-Break things (which costs money)
-Give up on a project
-and be miserable to any who are helping/around him or her

LOL, I was just getting ready to say that this sounded like me 5 or 6 years ago. But then I read:

but patience usually comes with age

Pete

 

[BlackBII]

Pfft, that's still me. I 'rig' everything I can. Lol.

 

[xtremeRanger]

Well if your wondering where to get horse power from your 2.9L here you go http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/2_9_Page.html

other than that the engine is best stock, pointless to waste money on it. Keep it stock and drive it till it dies or whatever. Best thing for the 2.9 is a tune up. Just read and you will catch on to where everyone is coming from. I recently found myself a good running 4.0 for $200.

 

[jaymegriffiths]

You asked for advice, you got advice. Just because it wasn't what you wanted to hear, doesn't mean that it wasn't sound.

Here's the thing: These old engines are pretty simple and not very "tuned down." There isn't a whole lot that you can "bolt on" or fab/rig up externally to increase power before you have to start doing major work to get more power. And by the time you do that much, a swap would've been easier and worth more.

Examples:

1. Quality headers from JBA cost about a grand. Headers are a basic upgrade for power. 4.0 swap could be done cheaper with better results.

2. I just spent more than that on parts, swapping my friggin heads out due to a severe coolant leak, and I didn't even go to World heads. 4.0 swap wouldn't have been too much more work and would've been cheaper. Unfortunately for me, by that point, the swap wasn't an option.

Look at the guys giving advice. They've seen it, done it, or both. You- on the other hand- haven't done crap and know so little that you don't even understand how much knowledge you don't have. Asking them for advice and then arguing with them and criticizing them about it is like walking up and smacking them in the face. I'm surprised that they've been this patient with you. Most boards I've been on would've eaten you alive.

My advise:

Spend some time reading and doing. Fix some stuff. Do a few simple mods. Tinker. Cuss, scream, bust your knuckles, scratch your head, vent your frustrations on a tree with a breaker bar, have a few "oh shit I need a tool and Sears closes in 20 minutes" moments... before you tackle an engine swap. Learn engines and more importantly how to work on engines before you take on something you can't possibly handle and screw yourself over. Nothing is worse than realizing that you don't know what you're doing until it's disassembled and spawled out all over your driveway... and you have to go to work tomorrow.

Now, you can take that as an insult, or you can think about it and learn from it. Your choice.

I have though about it and i understand what your tryin to say, but its not as easy as it seems. If i said "any money spent upgrading a 2.9 would be a waste, seeing as a 4.0 swap would easily exceed any horsepower or milage returns 2.9 upgrades would acheive" you would all have to agree. now what you dont see is that your right, taking it all apart then finding out its never gettin back together in time is something i dont want to experience. hence my frustration in people insisting a 4.0 swap is a better alternative. now, im not completely mechanically retarded like most of trs members would like to believe, but i've never done an engine swap, let alone on a DD.

[

Disaster Alert!​

1. You set a deadline (little to no downtime). Something is ALWAYS going to interfere with your project. Always expect some unforseen misfortune coming your way whenever you modify, replace, or repair anything. It happens. Especially with little experience, you will be running into all sorts of little (and maybe big) problems. These problems will obviously hold you back from running your vehicle. But they also generally add to the expense of the project. This is true for whatever you decide to do with your truck-or anything else for that matter.

2. By being impatient with the experienced members on this site, this tells me you will most likely become impatient with your project. In order to be a good mechanic, you must have patience and the ability to keep your cool.

A person who is impatient will...
-Rush their work
-Often "rig" the project, sacrificing the quality
-Break things (which costs money)
-Give up on a project
-and be miserable to any who are helping/around him or her

A person who is able to keep their cool will...
-Pay attention to details
-Find alternatives to problems (NOT USING A BIGGER HAMMER on delicate parts)
-and most of all ENJOY THEIR EXPERIENCE

I'm not trying to hurt anyone's feelings, but patience usually comes with age. In highschool, I wanted everything. I worked a part time job in the morning (milk cows), got off school, and went to another part time job in the evening (grocery store). I think I made $300 a week, subtract auto insurance, gas, girl money, ect and I probably had half of that to myself a week. At 16, I bought a 5.0L cobra mustang engine along with its trans and rear end. It would be another year and a half before I finished building it (money was the issue) and another year after that before I found a vehicle to fit it into. I originally was going to purchase a foxbody mustang, but found a sweet deal on a single cab ranger. 8 months later I finally had a ranger with a V8. Drove it for a year or so and now its apart for more go-fast parts. None of this would have happened if I wasn't patient. I would have been like all the other kids my age who took out huge loans to purchase an "already built" car.

quite honestly i wouldn't buy an "already built" car for nothing. i'd rather wait, learn, and build it myself so i can appreciate all the work that went into it. i understand patience is key, but sometimes its frustrating, so maybe ill go hit a tree with a breaker bar or something, and thanks for the advice.

Pfft, that's still me. I 'rig' everything I can. Lol.

Don't tell anyone but one of my lugs had to be hammered on 3/4 of an inch before it would bite cause it was cross threaded. Stayin that way till i can afford a new stud and all new lugs. which is currently sinking lower on my priority list, as next payday is goin towards a clutch to replace the brutally slipping piece of crap.

Well if your wondering where to get horse power from your 2.9L here you go http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/2_9_Page.html

other than that the engine is best stock, pointless to waste money on it. Keep it stock and drive it till it dies or whatever. Best thing for the 2.9 is a tune up. Just read and you will catch on to where everyone is coming from. I recently found myself a good running 4.0 for $200.

Its not price that's stopping me from swapping in a 4.0. its lack of another DD. IMO if im ditchin' the 2.9 later on, a 5.0 will replace it, as i will have a newer vehicle to DD while my ranger becomes a project. sorry 4.0 guys, i'd go v8 over v6 anyday.

 

[xtremeRanger]

Its been proven that the 4.0 is a better swap over the 302. And the 4.0 can be done in a weekend. I pulled my first engine last week which was my 2.9 and its very easy. Im no mechanic but i have the general idea of how everything works. Its a direct drop in once you get the 2.9 out. You can make a 4.0 push out enough horse power needed. Aftermarket from what i know has its options for the 4.0

 

[jaymegriffiths]

Its been proven that the 4.0 is a better swap over the 302. And the 4.0 can be done in a weekend. I pulled my first engine last week which was my 2.9 and its very easy. Im no mechanic but i have the general idea of how everything works. Its a direct drop in once you get the 2.9 out. You can make a 4.0 push out enough horse power needed. Aftermarket from what i know has its options for the 4.0

so your saying i wont have to splice one single wire? just unplug and plug in new?
how bout rigging up the MAF? or can i reuse the speed density in my ranger now? and if it's that easy ill go buy a friggin 4.0 right away! but if im not 100% sure i know exactly what i need to do and how to do it im not touchin a thing
by the way, a 4.0 is better in your opinion. im willing to bet there are people who have 302 swapped who will argue with you over which swap is "better" obviously i cant talk, i've never done either, but i know that there are certain applications where either would have their benefit's (for example, a 302 would be easier to build for high output, but a 4.0 would be smoother to drive, better on gas(maybe) and easier in 4x4 applications)


*wait a sec... you lookin to get rid of those pacesetters?

 

[holyford86]

a 4.0 is not a direct plugin on an 88 but it's about the closest thing you can get to a drop in swap even with the wire splicing

 

[xtremeRanger]

I might sell my headers, they are only a month old haha. just put them in and then found a 4.0 for a great price. I paid $380 CDN for the headers.

 

[jaymegriffiths]

I might sell my headers, they are only a month old haha. just put them in and then found a 4.0 for a great price. I paid $380 CDN for the headers.

well depending on your price, i might want them. how close to winnipeg are you?

 

[jaymegriffiths]

SWEET. i found a 4.0 aerostar that i could get for around 100 bucks. now just curious, would an 89 aerostar have a 4.0? i looked but if the 3.0 looks like the 4.0 from the top it could very well be a 3.0...

 

[xtremeRanger]

Im 1 hour and 45 mins from winnipeg.

 

[fastpakr]

SWEET. i found a 4.0 aerostar that i could get for around 100 bucks. now just curious, would an 89 aerostar have a 4.0? i looked but if the 3.0 looks like the 4.0 from the top it could very well be a 3.0...

http://en.wikibooks.org/wiki/Vehicl.../Ford/VIN_Codes#Engine_codes_for_light_trucks

The VIN number is the quickest way to check what engine came from the factory in a truck. The 4.0 wasn't available in 89, so unfortunately you're going to need to keep looking a little longer.

 

[HndMeDnBroncoII]

ohh winnepeg. u told me so much now with that one word. lol for all ur ideas wouldnt it be easier to just go and buy a ranger with 4.0 and all the other goodies that u want
dealerships r givin cars with great interest rates and free job loss protection.
im sure u can afford it i heard candian tire pays really well