Quick jacking question

[James Morse]

So I thought I'd put in the manual hubs. I jack up on crossmember that surrounds the front diff, pretty sure on that. Where to put jack stands, best place is radius arm bracket? Looks like it from the clean spots there.
Also wondered should I run get retainer (toothed) washers for the hub. I would think so? But lots of vids don't even show them. They keep the hub from coming off when you pull a wheel, is my understanding.

 

[rusty ol ranger]

I just put the stands underneath the beams out toward the wheel

 

[Curious Hound]

I usually jack here, or as close as possible.

And jack stand here.

 

[James Morse]

Just saw this in the shop manual - "never jack on the differential housing" (front). But if I jack on the beam that goes around the diff housing that's ok, right?
Not clear what you mean 'beams' can you call it a part name, thanks?

 

[scotts90ranger]

They jack goofy if you go under the pumpkin anyway... I just put the saddle of the jack under the radius arm lower bolt (in Eric's pics) and go from there, doing hubs you aren't going under the thing just do one corner at a time and leave the jack there assuming your jack doesn't leak down too bad... Hopefully you have 6 ton jack stands so they're tall but you can just go to the frame, leave the jack under the axle though or it gets floppy...

I wouldn't worry about the washers holding the hubs on, unnecessary... it's 3 seconds to put the hub back on if it falls off... They were there from the factory so it could go down the assembly line without them falling off...

 

[Curious Hound]

Beams = Axle Beams. These are the pieces that are mounted crosswise and the spindle assembly bolts to them. The driver side beam contains the differential. Ie; TIB = Twin I-Beam suspension (rwd) and TTB = Twin Traction Beam, the 4x4 version of TIB

Radius Arms = the member that bolts to the axle beams right behind the spindle assembly and run toward a mounting point on the frame under the front seat area.

I do sometimes just leave the jack in place and put a jack stand under the frame behind the front rear wheel as a safety catch, like Scott mentioned

 

[RobbieD]

I usually jack here, or as close as possible.
View attachment 93853


And jack stand here.
View attachment 93852

Let me guess; that's a JACK Russell Terrier that's lifting your truck?

 

[Curious Hound]

Let me guess; that's a JACK Russell Terrier that's lifting your truck?

That's funny. I didn't even realize she was in the picture. Breed unknown. We think she's a beagle mix.

 

[Uncle Gump]

She's like my dog... he's always photo bombing

 

[James Morse]

Can't get key out pass side I posted it in the hub thread too.

 

[lil_Blue_Ford]

Can't get key out pass side I posted it in the hub thread too.

Try slightly tightening the nut. Pick at the key, magnet, spray with brake clean, play with the nut some more, etc. it’s a pain, manuals are much simpler.

 

[Bear in the woods]

Can't get key out pass side I posted it in the hub thread too.

Sounds like the part the key is in is not turned to full lock or unlock. Not saying it didn’t unlock or lock the door. But it won’t release till it makes the full turn internally. Maybe work the key one direction as you work the lock button or rod Going to the key lock

 

[scotts90ranger]

He's talking the auto hub wheel bearing nut key, not the actual key

 

[Bear in the woods]

Ahh. . Forgive me I’ve been drinking

 

[James Morse]

I'm not making any progress. I forgot about the fish hook thing, ironically I had a whole assotment in the tool box. I'm picking away at it and moving the nut, just can't get the key to move at all.
I was picking away at it with a knife, might have broke a little piece off in there, not sure, if so, that won't help.
Can't get hook wire to go all the way to the back. It does try to grab it with the point/barb but just can't budge it.
Side question is the axle supposed to have play in it? The rotor has no play but the axle has quite a bit of play I wondered is that normal? I didn't notice on the other side if it had that big amount of play in it.

As to getting the key out I can keep screwing with it, just wish I'd see it budge even a little. This is a bad design if you ask me and yeah, with the manual hubs you don't have this issue.
BTW on the driver side I had a heck of a time trying to get my torque wrench to click at 150 ft lbs, I just made it as tight as I could do it. I think it's ok, but just so I know, if it loosened up, what's the symptom? Bearing gets loose and wheel wobbles etc? I might check it again after some use but it's really tight probably I shouldn't worry about that.

Pretty frustrating in terms of time on it. Has to be a way to get it out. Not eager at all to put the old hub back.
I'm using bar clamp to move the nut back and forth it takes I believe 2-3/8" hex socket and it would have to be deep like 2-1/2 or 3" deep to clear the axle. I can get one but not sure that would help since I can move the nut back and forth, I go one side, the other side, middle, nothing helps. Argh.