Question on motor swap.

[PsychoSmart]

I have a 1998 3.0 V6 2wd ford ranger xlt, about 98000 miles. I have had it for coming up on 16 years, and is the only car I've ever owned. About 3 years ago right after I began making payments on a motorcycle, the motor on the ranger began to knock and had no power, and the check engine light came on. I had it taken to 2 separate garages. One being a local ford dealership, where a close acquaintance works in the service center. The other was a local garage with good reviews. Both said needed a new engine and probably transmission but they couldn't know for sure until they pulled it out. The ford dealership quoted $7500, the local garage was $6500 but said it would be all used parts and that they weren't responsible if it broke after it left the lot... They both said it was camshaft and crank shaft and probably who knows what else. They also both told me they would offer $750 for it as it sits... So it came home and was parked in the driveway. And there it has sat for almost 3 years now...

I have never attempted anything like this, but how difficult would it be to do? I'm reasonably mechanically inclined (my daily driver us a Ural motorcycle so...), and financially in a good place for this right now. I'm not willing to send it to the junk yard or to sell atm, so in my eyes it's not hurting anything to try. Can anyone point me to a book or a how to video or youtube? I'm a visual learner and I learn by seeing it and then doing it. Everything I can find goes too quick or is just a timelapse. I am paying to learn here, but not looking to throw money away.

Also I was planning to just try to find another 3.0, but any ideas on swapping to something else I'd like to hear.

 

[RonD]

Welcome to TRS

1998 with 3.0l engine and assuming an automatic?

Its a 3.0l Vulcan engine, used by Ford from 1986 to 2008, 1991 to 2008 in Rangers
Automatic would be a 4R44E model in a 1998 3.0l

Do you remember if the transmission was acting up prior to the engine issue?
98k miles is not that much for an automatic, usually 250k on factory unit if its serviced
So not sure you would need to change that unless you feel "why not"

If there is a knock then yes the bottom end or Short block of the engine needs to be changed
You would remove upper and lower intake with engine still in the vehicle, take lots of pictures and use labels on wires and hoses
And unbolt the exhaust manifolds

You need a flat floor/driveway
You will need two floor jacks, or bottle jacks
You will need to rent an engine hoist
Buy an engine stand, and sell it when you are done, these will be found on craigslist because people do this all the time buy it, use it, sell it

Look for a used 3.0l Vulcan engine, lower miles is of course better, you can use ANY year, because you will be using your upper and lower intakes and exhaust manifold
Also oil pan as needed

You can call local machine shop and ask how much for a Long Block rebuild for your 3.0l, this would be new bearings, pistons, rings, oil pump and head gaskets, and all tested, and any parts that are bad, like a connecting rod replaced
So a new engine, but YOUR engine, no wondering about it

On the "used" engine you will want to replace
Rear main seal
Timing gear cover gasket and front seal
Oil pan gasket

Up to you is
oil pump
water pump

An you will need new gaskets for water pump, upper and lower intake, exhaust and valve covers

Its just alot of wrench work, no special knowledge is needed

Just look at any "pull an engine" videos, there is not alot of differences between Ford or Chevys or ???

You can pull the engine with transmission attached, but should have 3 people helping

 

[PsychoSmart]

Thank you for replying.

Yep Automatic.

Transmission was fine before hand, I regularly changed the oil, checked fluids, basic maintenance, but I got it at about 65000 miles and just didn't drive often. Just work mostly. And for the past 7 years I've worked from home 6-7 days a week.

I have most those things at the moment, a friend's dad offered the use of his engine hoist as long as it is returned in time for deer season. I'll start watching for an engine stand.

I am way more interested in rebuilding the engine or having it rebuilt. Time spent isn't really important. I kind of want something with more power, but should probably crawl before I walk...

Contemplating picking up a paper printed repair manual - Like This - Any point or? More for the proper names of things than anything. Can't really google and say my dealy bopper broke, where do I get a new one...

 

[RonD]

Yes, the Haynes Ranger manuals are a good starting point, double check spec's like clearances and torque, they can change some years and this is a "general" repair manual

I am old and started out with Chilton's and Motor's manuals, and no internet

Each year Ford sends out a Shop Manual set for every Model it makes, to every Ford dealer shop
So there are lots of them out there
Usually a 2 to 4 book set
The EVTM is the one used the most and often sold separately
EVTM = electrical and vacuum troubleshooting manual

The other books in the set are also good, they have engine, transmission, brakes, body and chassis info

But you ONLY want your years manuals, so 1998, 1997 and 1999 will be close but not for sure the exact info for 1998

1998 Ranger manual set seen here: https://www.ebay.com/itm/1998-FORD-...805886?hash=item4b7ce31c3e:g:nS4AAOSw9Q9e~mcv