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question concering rear glass


baxtej44

Well-Known Member
Joined
Feb 8, 2009
Messages
1,794
City
Omaha, Nebraska
Vehicle Year
1988
Transmission
Automatic
I want a solid pane replacement for my broken slider


What years will fit my 88 2.9L 4x4 ranger xlt?


Or is there some secure way for a slider to work? I'm meaning REALLY secure. I would have to go to the junkyard and rip the latch assembly off of something else, and figure a way to reattach it....
 
What if you were to go to a hardware store and look at the latches there if you find something and adapt it.Might work and might not but better than changing a window.
 
What if you were to go to a hardware store and look at the latches there if you find something and adapt it.Might work and might not but better than changing a window.

i'm not so fab savvy like that... looking for a less fab intensive process... like buy something and stick it on, or just buy a new window. (is there ACTUALLY a difference in buying a window from the junk yard or paying a professional? in terms of quality)
 
if the two sides will still slide together, then do that and clean both sides of the metal frame both inside and out. then, use a really good 2-part epoxy and seal them together both inside and out. will save you the money of replacing it with a solid window, and shouldn't be any air/water leaks where the 2 sides come together. just a thought.
 
I like the glue it post to take it one step further cut a metal strip the width of where the two sliders meet and RTV silicone them together from the inside you will have to break somthing to get them apart
 
they do not meet.. i think i have some pics on my photobucket, let me find them.


i think it'd be nice to have a nice solid pane with a cool ford logo sticker (the ones that i can see through, but they can't see in)



P10100290.jpg


that is fully "closed"... i have the good ol' trusty duct tape on there right now.
 
check and clean the tracks real good. there really isn't any reason they shouldn't meet in the middle. mine were like that when i first got it, but cleaned then lubed the tracks on the top and bottom and they work fine now. it did take quite a bit of pushing and pulling, but they eventually started to slide smoothly. but, like you, my latch isn't good and while it will hold them closed, there is no way to lock it. your topper looks just like mine from the inside!!
 
check and clean the tracks real good. there really isn't any reason they shouldn't meet in the middle. mine were like that when i first got it, but cleaned then lubed the tracks on the top and bottom and they work fine now. it did take quite a bit of pushing and pulling, but they eventually started to slide smoothly. but, like you, my latch isn't good and while it will hold them closed, there is no way to lock it. your topper looks just like mine from the inside!!

hm okay, i'll try and look at the tracks.. what did you lube the tracks with? but it still wouldn't really solve the problem of wanting a solid pane. however what if i ended up getting it sealed with a new latch from the junkyard, and then put silicon in the tracks so that when it hardens, you can't open up the slider? how secure would that be? some people say put a wooden dowel in the track, but in such a small track i'd be worried about the rigidity of a small dowel to protect $500 in stuff.

i no longer have the topper, that's a very old picture lol.
 
you might have to use a piece of wood then tap on it with a hammer to get them together. any type lube will work... PB Blaster, wd40, lithium, bearing grease, etc. i think i used a marine synthetic 90/140 (blue) lower end lube. as long as it helps the panels slide, it's fine. if you really want it to stay closed permanently, i recommend using Marine Tex 2 part epoxy. stronger stuff i've never found. not cheap, but your local boat/marine parts place should have it. nice thing about that stuff is that it works best when you put it on thick. just fill the tracks with it. i've even sealed exhaust manifolds with it and no leaks after 3 years.
 

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