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Question about the sploder 8.8 swap


Viva*the*Ranger

Well-Known Member
Joined
Nov 1, 2008
Messages
2,108
City
Bellingham, Wa.
Vehicle Year
2003
Transmission
Automatic
Sorry for the dumb questions..... but...

I have my 31 spline ready to go under the truck, but was wondering if there were any differences between extended cab two piece drive lines, depending on year. I know it has to be from a 91 and up 4.0 or anything with the 8.8, but were certain years different? There is no returns at the junk yard, and I don't want to F myself. Ha ha.

Also, I'm getting rid of my lift blocks, and putting the stock 2" blocks back under it. Anyone know what U-bolts will work? Or do I have to get them custom made? The u-bolts off the explorer, looked quite short, so I didn't pick them up.

Thanks in advance!

-Denny
 
So your pulling a drive-line off a '91+ 4.0 Ranger? Why not just get an explorer drive line and have it lengthened and then you'll just have a 1 piece?

You might have to just go somewhere and buy longer u-bolts.
 
Great suggestion, but that's another $150 I would have to spend to get the work done. I'm running out of time and money at the moment. I have to start school fairly soon, and the truck can't keep swallowing up cash, the way it has been. Ha ha.

I figured the u-bolts would probably have to be made. It would be much better to just have new ones anyway.

Thanks 91yota!
 
check autozone, i found some that were 13" long and had a 3.25" radius on them
 
Great suggestion, but that's another $150 I would have to spend to get the work done. I'm running out of time and money at the moment. I have to start school fairly soon, and the truck can't keep swallowing up cash, the way it has been. Ha ha.

I figured the u-bolts would probably have to be made. It would be much better to just have new ones anyway.

Thanks 91yota!

If your trying to save some money then use your stock drive line then drill the flange on the 8.8 to accept the smaller driveshaft yoke/flange (whatever its called). I think you will have to tap it because I don't think you can put a nut on the other side (haven't looked at mine).

And I thought Rangers like our years used one piece drive lines? Mines a shortbed standard cab so I have no idea. lol

And, maybe you can find some ubolts off an f-150 or something with the same diameter axle with blocks so they will fit your 8.8.

Good luck!:headbang:
 
check autozone, i found some that were 13" long and had a 3.25" radius on them

Perfect! Thanks Eddie. You are the friggen man! I didn't even think of that. Ha ha

If your trying to save some money then use your stock drive line then drill the flange on the 8.8 to accept the smaller driveshaft yoke/flange (whatever its called). I think you will have to tap it because I don't think you can put a nut on the other side (haven't looked at mine).

And I thought Rangers like our years used one piece drive lines? Mines a shortbed standard cab so I have no idea. lol

And, maybe you can find some ubolts off an f-150 or something with the same diameter axle with blocks so they will fit your 8.8.

Good luck!:headbang:

That's another idea I didn't even think of.... I suppose down the road, I could always just get the 4.0 drive shaft for durability. The one that's on it now should do for a while. Thanks!

An yeah, the extended cab has a two piece. More parts to break in my opinion! A one piece would be ideal for sure. I'm pretty sure the 2wd extended cab had a one piece though. I could be wrong about that. Someone correct me if I am..
 
Have you seen this page?
http://www.therangerstation.com/Magazine/June04/offroad.htm

If you have any one of the following transmissions:
A4LD, 4R44E, 4R55E, 5R44E, 5R55E, FM146, M5OD, the '98+ one-piece shaft is what you're after (the steel '98-'00 ones being the most desirable).

Otherwise, redrilling/tapping the flange like suggested above and reusing your existing driveshaft should work.
 
So how much stronger is an 8.8 driveshaft over a 7.5?
 
its not necessarily the strength, but more the mount style sm flange vs lg flange. which translates to the size of the u-joint.
 
So cant you just put the 8.8 flange on the 7.5 shaft with the use of the special Ujoint that is made (cant remember what its part number is)?
 
why would you buy the "bastard ujoint" when you could just change out the flange? on the shaft or the pinion-- i'm not gonna go into which one you need, b/c i don't.

if you break that bastard ujoint on a trail, you better have another in your spare parts b/c those can be hard to find..



MY OPINION TO THE OP------ do the swap, and then address that problem when it arises
 
So just change out the flange i.e. put the 7.5 one on the 8.8, for those that upgrade from a 7.5 to 8.8? The many ways of doing it is fuzzy when it comes to the exact ways of doing it, needs a clearer write up on the many options there are so fewer people wouldnt have to ask this same question that I have been trying to solve for awhile through just reading. Im more of a picture guy when it comes to learning.
 
The 7.5 pinion flange is not interchangeable with the 8.8. You need a large pattern flange yoke for the driveshaft.
 
So just get the ujoint holder off the 8.8 shaft and have it welded to the 7.5 shaft? If not I would do the bastard ujoint and keep it simple plus have a few spare on hand.
 
No, the flange yoke, this piece.
flange1.jpg

My donor Explorer had 1330 joints, my B2 has 1310 joints, as should your ranger, so I couldn't use the flange yoke from the sploder. The 1310 large pattern flange can be found on 90+ rangers.
Here's the 1310 flange yoke compared to the sploder 1330 flange yoke.
flange2.jpg
 

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