Question about locker...

[Toms01PSD]

Do you really think it's worth the swap because it's my DD. I'm not trying to turn it into a full blown project.

 

[wahlstrom1]

Gear and lock the 8.8" out of the truck, buy U bolts etc ahead of time, swap it all in in a matter of hrs. Less downtime then doing the work to the axle already in the truck.

 

[Toms01PSD]

Gear and lock the 8.8" out of the truck, buy U bolts etc ahead of time, swap it all in in a matter of hrs. Less downtime then doing the work to the axle already in the truck.

U-bolts that are currently in the truck won't work? What is all involved in the swap. You guys just about have me convinced.

 

[wahlstrom1]

Shouldn't re use u bolts that have more then a few miles driving time as they stretch. Build the 8.8" to your liking (gears/locker) and bolt it in, driveshaft should bolt right up and spring perches/shock mounts bolt right up like the 7.5" if your using a ranger 8.8". Theres a writeup in the tech section about going to an explorer 8.8".

 

[Totalled]

The 7.5 isn't worth spending money on when an 8.8 will bolt in... which it will in your application.

 

[Toms01PSD]

Ok. Since I want to run 4.56's, is there a certain 8.8 I need to look for to re-gear? Or can I regear any Ranger 8.8 no matter what gears it has inside of it? If I find an 8.8 without limited slip I will go with the Lock-Right. If not, will all the other options work with a limited slip 8.8? I think you guys have got me addicted now...gah!!!

 

[Sasquatch_Ryda]

There is no gear split for the 8.8, you can put any ratio on any carrier. I've reused U bolts multiple times without any problems.....

 

[Toms01PSD]

Ok, now who the heck has an 8.8 they are willing to sell?

 

[AllanD]

I appreciate the help so far guys. Allan, i'm not going to turn this thing into a rock-crawler or anything, I will be using it for trails and such in my area and up in Uwharrie with a buddy. I'm pretty sure I will be fine for trails, what do you think? I guess i'm just going to have to save up some dough to get me a Detriot to go with my Yukons. Here's another question: If I run a Detriot locker in the rear, is it ok to run the Lock-Right in the front? It may seem like a dumb question but i'm looking for clarification. By the way, i'm leaving it at stock height on 31's and I may put larger tires on it down the road with a body lift. I'd like to set my axles up before it looks like a "prettified" mall crawler. Function over fashion FTW!

Hey, My truck is only likely to go "Rock crawling" to get back on to a road after I slide off it in the snow.

I'd regard an invitation to go mud crawling the same way
I'd regard an invitation to try anal sex... on the receiving end...

My Primary use of 4x4 is to AVOID going offroad.

I still break things...

I don't mind modifying my truck, I HATE "fixing" it.

To that end I switched to an 8.8" L - O - N - G before I needed
it to go with my 4.0.

Why? because by preference I ran a limited slip and limited
slips NEED to be reshimmed/reclutched/rebuilt and on a 7.5" it's a collossal
PITa to simply reshim a limited slip.
It's literally an all day job laying on the ground.
the EXACT SAME JOB on an 8.8" is a couple hours.

THAT's why I recommend not wasting time on a 7.5"

 

[Toms01PSD]

Thanks for the insight Allan. You and everyone else has already convinced me and I have found one. I have to wait til tomorrow to call though because they are closed weekends.

 

[Hahnsb2]

Why? because by preference I ran a limited slip and limited
slips NEED to be reshimmed/reclutched/rebuilt and on a 7.5" it's a collossal
PITa to simply reshim a limited slip.
It's literally an all day job laying on the ground.
the EXACT SAME JOB on an 8.8" is a couple hours.

THAT's why I recommend not wasting time on a 7.5"

Isn't the only problem that the cross-pin cant be removed with the ring gear on? Or does the ring gear obstruct the S spring too (I've only removed an LS carrier from a 7.5 to install an open for a locker)? If not, 10 minutes with a dremel will make the cross-pin removable, saving a lot of work and adding the ability to add the stronger un-notched cross-pin.

 

[nooberiffic]

just make sure you do some prep work on your rear before attempting the swap. I just threw an 8.8, explorer leafs and new shocks on this saturday. Taking the old shiz off took twice as long to put the new stuff in.

 

[Toms01PSD]

Thanks for all the feedback guys! I just bought a 8.8 for $266 and i'm picking it up on friday. I noticed that it says you have to buy a notched cross-pin but I see some of you guys are saying to just cut down the teeth on the ring gear. Is there any reason I shouldn't use the notched cross-pin? Why would I have to worry about it considering it's an aftermarket piece and you think it would hold up? Will I even have to use the cross-pin if I install a Lock-Right in the rear end? Thanks for all the good information! Keep it comin'!

 

[Sasquatch_Ryda]

If you use a lockright, do NOT use the notched pin. Get a full hardened pin for the lock right and grind the tooth on the ring gear. When you see how little actually has to be removed you will see why everyone does this (on mine it was just a matter of touching it with the die grinder and the full hardened pin slid right in. Remember with a lock right, all the stress from the locker is put onto that pin.

 

[Toms01PSD]

If you use a lockright, do NOT use the notched pin. Get a full hardened pin for the lock right and grind the tooth on the ring gear. When you see how little actually has to be removed you will see why everyone does this (on mine it was just a matter of touching it with the die grinder and the full hardened pin slid right in. Remember with a lock right, all the stress from the locker is put onto that pin.

Yes, I plan on using a lockright. How did you remove the shavings off the ring gear after you grind it down? Shoot it with compressed air or what? How about some pictures?