question about front brakes

[Arej00dazed]

My 96 2wd ranger needs new front pads and rotors. GT tire (pataskala) estimated about $400 worth of work. didnt think bout it at the time, but that seems kinda prcey for only about $100 in parts. Is there something about my gen ranger that would make it that pricey or should I call back to see if theres other problems with it? Im looking to do it myself to save money. thanx

 

[Jspafford]

Nope, Just pads and rotors. Maybe they are going to replace the rotors too? That seems about right for brakes. Brakes are something that if you know how to repair, you will save a LOT of maintenance costs.

EDIT: You will probably have to pull the wheel bearings to get the rotors off the front. Is it possible they are charging you to check and repack the bearings too.

 

[michowski]

if you do it yourself your looking at about 100 dollars for the parts (2 rotors and pads). Only other thing you will need is some brake cleaner, and grease for the bearings and back of the pads for installation (I put a little grease on the backside of my pads so they dont squeak). You can probly save yourself 300ish dollars doing it yourself. If your new to this it will probly take you like 2-3 hours to do the job. If your experienced and have done this several times before you can have this done in about an hour.

 

[MAKG]

Disk brakes are pretty easy.

But in addition to the rotors and pads, you need a wheel bearing seal (one for each side), and some way to get the caliper pins out (I find a solid pliers and a good push works well). A hammer and punch will finish it off once you get it started, and can also be used for installation.

 

[Jspafford]

Disk brakes are pretty easy.

But in addition to the rotors and pads, you need a wheel bearing seal (one for each side), and some way to get the caliper pins out (I find a solid pliers and a good push works well). A hammer and punch will finish it off once you get it started, and can also be used for installation.

I always just use a screwdriver all the way out.

 

[AllanD]

You don't really need seals or bearings.\

replacing the wheel bearings on a TTB front brake job is just plain silly.
Ditto for replacing the bearings in a used rotor....

Generally if the bearings are bad it's time to toss the rotor.

The seal can EASILY be knocked out without dammag if you drive it out with the bearing
(usually the machinist you take the rotors to to be turned will do this for you)

If your rotors are bad you will be into some money, but the pads should run $40 even for some of the better ones, and the best money can buy only run about twice that much...

AD

 

[michowski]

Go to autozone and get lifetime warranty pads also. You never have to buy brake pads again this way. Also if you pick up a haynes book on your truck it tells/shows you step by step how to do this. Its a really simple proccess and wont take much time to do at all. If you can take the tire off your ranger then you can change the front brakes lol. It really is that easy

 

[94STXRanger]

Dude I just did this job at school two days ago. Two rotors(expensive ones), pad set(middle price), bearings just incase the old ones were bad which they where and you might as well replace if you dont mind the money, and ten dollars for rear seals. All that total was like 145. 113 with a employee discount.Why wouldnt someone just buy some new seals? And you need two bearings per side, well if a 96 is the same as a 94. O and if you take your rotors to a parts store and ask to have them turned, you could just get that done and keep your old rotors and not have to buy new ones. You will also need the correct tool to get the lock nuts off, again if similar to my 94.

 

[MAKG]

Timken bearings run over $30 apiece, so if you're going to put good bearings in there, you really don't want to replace them unless they need it. They usually don't unless they get water in them or an overzealous tech adjusts them too tight. Once cleaned up, a bad bearing is VERY obvious. So is a bad race. So, just wipe the race clean with a rag and see if there is any pitting or scoring. Replace THAT bearing if there is.

Lifetime pads will make it so you don't have to pay for pads anymore. But the rotors they chew up can get expensive.

There is indeed a trick to getting the seal out intact. I've done it many times using my mallet handle. I just didn't want to make this job more difficult.

 

[AllanD]

MY motto on brakes rotors is better to machine and reuse a Bendix or Bosch rotor
than a even a new rotor made in China.

My '87 has a '97 D35 front axle in it and I'm running Bendix Rotors and
factory spec Bosch pads. (By luck of the draw my '97 calipers are BOSCH
but the '95-up stuff is either Bosch or Bendix and they are essentially indentical)

I agree with MAKG about "Lifetime" pads, they are bad, but I don't worry much about rotor wear I worry about the fact that because those pads are so hard you don't get BEST braking out of them until they are quite warm

Funny thing is that the cheapest pads you can find will usually stop better when cold.

If you want Fade resistance or "Performance" braking you need performance pads and that means Hawk Carbotics or Performance Friction Carbon-Metallics.
They stop better, but they also wear faster.

"ceramic" brakes wear well but are prioritized in operating "Clean", IOW without a lot of grubby looking black dust....


My issue with rotors has never been wear, but rather cracking them.

AD

 

[Dangeranger3]

There is indeed a trick to getting the seal out intact. I've done it many times using my mallet handle. I just didn't want to make this job more difficult.

Sorry to dig up an old thread, but will you elaborate on this trick please?


Or anyone else who has a good rear bearing seal removal process feel free to throw it in here. Just so you know this is for an 89 2wd. And what do you find to be the best for cleaning the bearings?

 

[MAKG]

On D28 rotors, put the rotor on two wood blocks. Remove the outer bearing if it isn't already removed. Take a convenient piece of wood (I use a mallet handle) and tap on the inner bearing, against the seal. It will pop out in one piece without much effort.

I have had much less success with that on D35 rotors, because the seals go in MUCH tighter. I've had to distort those with a punch (from the side) and replace the seals.

 

[Final777]

Okay send like an easy enough job but what happens when u go to put the pads back on your new calipers, when you realize that the torque buttons on your brake pads are to short to seat solidly in place on the caliper I've already bought 3 different sets of calipers and brake pads, but they will not fit please please help!!

 

[Josh B]

What is a torque button?
I have never had a problem such as (disc) pads that do not fit