Put in Drive or reverse and dies

[saling4]

Almost forgot 1997 ranger 4.0 Auto extended cab

I changed my Auto trans fluid /filter (80000)and now when I put it in drive reverse it immediately dies. Now what did I do?

Hints appreciated.

 

[exbass94]

Sounds like the torque converter is locked up. Check out the TC clutch or solenoid or any parts related to the TC lockup functions.

 

[Bent Bolt]

Almost forgot 1997 ranger 4.0 Auto extended cab

I changed my Auto trans fluid /filter (80000)and now when I put it in drive reverse it immediately dies. Now what did I do?

Hints appreciated.

This happened right after you changed the filter ??

 

[thegoat4]

Agreed with exbass. One way to check and confirm this is to get some buddies to push the truck to get it rolling forward while idling and then put it into drive. If you can take off and drive around, but the engine stalls again when you come to a stop, you have a locked up TC.

 

[saling4]

Yes it was fine until I changed the filter and the fluid. Now it will drive fine if I keep the RPM's high and drop it into gear. However, as soon as I come to a stop it stops.

 

[saling4]

Can the solonoids be changed with the tranny in the truck?

 

[Earl43P]

I can't help you.

This link might.

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=109

Take some time to search.

 

[saling4]

Thanks that thread shows me which one it is: Far back driver side. Now if I was pretty sure that was the problem. Any one want to give me odds?

 

[saling4]

Okay here is a rehash of problem and what I propose to try and fix it. 1997 Ford Ranger 4.0 80,000 miles.

Bought truck used and have been changing all fluids.
Changed Trans fluid and filter.
Now once it warms up it will die in R or D.
Thinking about it and I remembered that the RPM's ALWAYS dropped to about 500RPM in reverse even before fluid change...Important?

Wasn't thinking when I pulled pan, but there was a chunk of metal in the pan. About 3/8" wide x 1/4" tall x 1/16" thick. looked like a tab that broke off something. Couldn't find anything (didn't know where to look). Now I think it might be the bracket that holds the solenoids. I will check when I dropp the pan again.

What my plan is:

Drop pan and VB
redo the VB with the Ford TSB
Superior boost kit?
Change the TCC and probably the EPC (the truck has 80,000 miles).
Put it back together and see what happens.

Any other ideas or suggestions are appreciated.

 

[thegoat4]

Okay here is a rehash of problem and what I propose to try and fix it. 1997 Ford Ranger 4.0 80,000 miles.

Bought truck used and have been changing all fluids.
Changed Trans fluid and filter.
Now once it warms up it will die in R or D.
Thinking about it and I remembered that the RPM's ALWAYS dropped to about 500RPM in reverse even before fluid change...Important?

Wasn't thinking when I pulled pan, but there was a chunk of metal in the pan. About 3/8" wide x 1/4" tall x 1/16" thick. looked like a tab that broke off something. Couldn't find anything (didn't know where to look). Now I think it might be the bracket that holds the solenoids. I will check when I dropp the pan again.

What my plan is:

Drop pan and VB
redo the VB with the Ford TSB
Superior boost kit?
Change the TCC and probably the EPC (the truck has 80,000 miles).
Put it back together and see what happens.

Any other ideas or suggestions are appreciated.

Unplug the transmission connector and try driving again. Automatics have a failsafe limp home mode and will go into a forward gear and a reverse gear without the TCC locked. If it works like it should, you'll have a very sluggish forward gear in drive, but it won't stall. If the problem remains, you have eliminated all possible electrical failures. If it is unlocked and you do not stall then your problem is electrical: your best bet is to take it in to a dealer or tranny shop since they'll have the pricey electrical troubleshooting equipment.

If you want to pull it apart, the four solenoids on the driver's side of the transmission are what you're interested in. The one at the very front (with an extra little mounting bracket built into the solenoid itself) is your TCC solenoid. When you pull it out, the TCC valve is behind it. Pull that valve and spring. If you see (and can feel) scuffing in two places on the valve on opposite sides and opposite ends like it was cocked in the bore, you need a new valve body. Otherwise clean the bore and replace the spring. There should also be an updated retainer for the solenoids available. Get that. The EPC is in the same group, it's the fourth solenoid. It is pricey. It is common on these transmissions to blow the gasket out on the plate between the valve bodies. There is a new plate available that has a gasket made onto it and will not blow out. I believe it is actually part of a retrofit kit to address a main pressure problem that causes the blowouts in the first place.

As for that mystery chunk, I don't know. Sounds like it might be a finger from a rotating drum.