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Push clutch engine dies after swap


jour

New Member
Joined
Nov 2, 2012
Messages
3
City
PA
Vehicle Year
1990
Transmission
Manual
Hi. Been lurking a long time, first post though, as I haven't been able to figure this one out by searching.

90 BII has been sitting for three years thanks to a divorce. Just started working on it again. I had just swapped in a Mazda transmission and 4.0 clutch before it sat but never started it.

The last two weeks I've gotten everything buttoned up including the shifter, a new battery, and today the fuel pump. I was so excited that it would start today!!!

And it did. Except when I push the clutch pedal in, it stalls out immediately. And if I push in the clutch and start it, it won't start and sounds like the battery is dead. But if I let go of the clutch pedal it starts just fine so the battery is fine too.

More details:

1) No clutch switch. Its wired to a switch-switch. When the truck is running, flicking the switch does nothing as it should. When its not running, flicking the switch prevents start. Perfect, as designed.

2) 96 Ranger M50D. No NSS. Brand new clutch kit was installed three years ago with it. Fluid level is perfect.

3) Noticed my master wouldn't connect to the new slave so I bought a 93-94 Ranger master cylinder and coaxed it into the BII. The pedal releases the clutch when the truck isn't running. I realize now I should have bought a different slave instead. Or something else maybe, not sure, but the problem was thought to be solved.

4) There is a clickety-clak, ratcheting type noise coming from the transmission area. I thought it was the lifter tick at first but it seems to be too loud for that. But it might be the lifter tick too. I really can't tell but I swear its coming from the bell housing.

Seeing as there is no clutch switch this must be a mechanical issue. Something jamming the engine when the pedal is pressed? Doesn't make a lot of sense to me at the moment.

I want to drive this thing!!! Please help!!! Lol. Thanks.
 
I assume "engine dies" means fuel or spark is cut.
Mechanically stopping a fly wheel powered by fuel and spark would be difficult without you feeling a lurch, something has to absorb the torque, which you don't mention.
Like popping the clutch while in 4th gear, engine dies but you feel the torque as it does.


If you push the clutch pedal in and then out quickly does engine RPM drop and come back or just drop to 0?

In the master conversion(not sure what was involved) did any wires get pinched and are now being grounded when pedal is depressed?


The ratcheting sound, what starter are you using?
maybe starter is not disengaging, or since it is a conversion may be wrong nose on starter, just guessing.
 

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