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Pulled Codes. Need Advice


cdub85

Member
Joined
Apr 24, 2009
Messages
5
Vehicle Year
1994
Transmission
Manual
I just recently bought a 1994 Ranger 4x4 xlt 5spd with 135,000 and its been running a little sluggish and I have a few different questions for all you ranger techies. It idles pretty rough when first started, it bounces from 1100 to 200 rpm, but after its warmed up its fine and idles at 750-800 rpm. Its never been "fast" but I didn't expect that from a 3.0, but it just doesn't feel as responsive as it should. I mean, its life or death getting on the freeway at times!:fie: This week for the first time the CEL came on when I down shifted from 3rd to 2nd. When I started it the next morning, the CEL was off again, its done this a handful of times now. The CEL is off as of now, but I went to Autozoo today and pulled the codes. Here's what I got:

DTC:111- System Pass, No KOEO Fault Codes Present

DTC:124- Throttle Position Sensor Voltage Above Normal

DTC:211- Profile Ignition Pickup Circuit Fault


Any ideas are appreciated as I'm no mechanic! I might be able to wrench on dirtbikes but trucks are a different story, haha.:icon_confused:

Also if the above issues are NOT the reason for my trucks poor performance, any ideas as to what would cause the lack of oomph in my engine.

Thanks, Colton
 
it could be a number of things like O2 sensers, spark plugs,bad wires,tps not correct voltage(easy to fix) coolant temp sensor actin up. it could be anyone of those if not more
 
the best thing to do is replace plugs and wires and see if that helps if the wires look good just change your plugs start cheap ive been told OBD2 at the beging wernt that good at telling you what was wrong they just kinda helped narrow problems down
 
clean ur MAF (mass air flow sensor) that might help the breathing of the engine if that is what it is doing
 
Thanks guys for the speedy replies. bigcountry, you said that the TPS voltage issue is an easy fix? Could you explain maybe what I would have to do to correct the voltage? Also it has OBDI not OBDII its a 1994.

Another thing that I should mention is that when I am at a stop sign for example, when I release the clutch and give it some gas, it has a slight hesitation, like its not getting fuel/air, or just choked up. I'm gonna give her a tune up (plugs, wires, oil, clean MAF) Any recomendations on a good plug to run? Also is seafoam really as good as people claim?

Thanks
 
Another thing to check is the idle air control. It's on top of the intake across from your TPS. It can get gummed up with oil and dirt. Clean it up with MAF cleaner and lube it with something light and safe for electrical.
 
Mines doing the exact same thing. I've cleaned the maf, cleaned all the other sensors, and changed plugs and points on the cap. Next is wires and o2 sensors.
 
Thanks guys for the advice! I did everything you suggested, with the exception of the TPS Voltage I still don't know what to do there. Anyhow, The truck is idling smooth as silk and has a little more bark then before. I found now that one of my exhaust gaskets is pretty much if not completely gone and is most likely the culprit for my lack of power. If im not mistaken, on my other trucks the gasket im needing is like a little black rubber donut? the dude at my local NAPA said that it was a paper gasket. :icon_confused: That just doesn't seem right to me, but like Ive said before im new to the Dangers. So is it a paper gasket or the rubber style?

BTW its the gasket from the headers down to the mid pipe I'd guess you'd call it. NOT the gasket from the cylinder to the headers.
 
Where's your exhaust leak?
Head to manifold?
Head to header?
Manifold to pipe?
Header collector to pipe?
We may be able to tell wich gasket is it and what material is it made of.
Now the TPS voltage being wrong just needs the TPS replaced with a new one.
 
Sounds like you are referencing a "donut gasket". Goes between junction of exhaust manifold and "Y" pipe, and it is not paper or card board. The other gasket would be the exhaust manifold gasket between exhaust manifold and block/heads.
 
Ya TomB, Its the gasket that goes in between the "Y" pipe from the cat and the headers. I figured it should be the donut style gasket, didn't make since for it to be a paper one. Well Im gonna go pick one of those up today and see how it goes. Any suggestions on the installation process? It looks pretty tight to get any real leverage to remove the bolts.

heres picture I took of an exhaust diagram, Its the gasket that would go between #1 and #4.

photo-1.jpg
 
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