pulled a code. info?

[6.2]

had some weird crap go down today. some of you know ive been having a "bucking/jerk" for a while now, and have suggested it could be a misfire. well i ordered plugs and wires about three weeks ago (maybe a month) have yet to get it instaled. but today on my way home i had a weird issue. that still doesnt quite add up in my head.

was passing a truck, accelerated and the RPMS when they reached 5k, they stuck there, no matter what i did with the throttle. let off or push more. stayed at 5k rpm and had a shaking for about 2 seconds, maybe 4 max.

check engine lights started flashing, but then stopped a few seconds later. after that, aside from the usual buck/jerk it shifted fine, and drove fine.

got home and pulled a code on my dads code reader, as well as my flashpaq.

here are the results. can you help me decipher this crap? misfire, obviously. but whats all this other shit i got from my dads scanner (orange)?



i think their in order

All that from my dads scanner. i did not clear the code


now heres my flashpaq.

thats it lol.

 

[RonD]

Assume its a Ranger with a 4.0l but what year?
4.0l OHV or 4.0l SOHC

manual or auto
2WD or 4x4

First on any engine a dirty MAF sensor will cause the bucking and stumbling.
Look here, easy to clean:
http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/CleanMAF.shtml

Plugs and wires really help a 4.0l if they are getting old.


It reads like the throttle stuck open, I would remove the cover and with engine off open it all the way and see if it feels smooth when opening and closing.
But I think you would feel a stuck throttle in the gas pedal

The TPS(throttle position sensor) is attached to the throttle shaft, the TPS "tells" the computer where your foot is on the gas pedal.
It does this by voltage.
Computer sends TPS 5volts, TPS sends computer 1 volt if throttle is closed and up to 5volts if throttle is open all the way, so it is like a light dimmer or volume control, voltage goes up as it rotates open.
Now TPS could have sent computer a higher voltage, so while you have the cover off, turn on the key, engine off.
The TPS will have 3 wires, one will have 5volts, one is a Ground, the 3rd is the voltage going back to computer, usually the center wire.
Pierce the wire with a sewing pin so you can read voltage live.
Open and close throttle while watching the voltage, should be nice and smooth in both direction, no jumps or drops.

Because of what happened I would reset the computer, clear all codes.
I only see the one misfire code and that could have been set when RPMs were stuck.

There is no way I know of to test the computer, and you could have a computer glitch that caused the stuck high RPMs.

 

[6.2]

Ah sorry. Guess I don't have my Sig filled out.

06 fx4. Sohc auto

I may have the day off work tomorrow so I'll look into the suggestions.

Actually bought maf cleaner the other day since it was on sale.

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[6.2]

any idea which clinder is "D" im assuming A=1 B=2 etc. etc?

 

[RonD]

p0303 is a misfire detected on #3

I would assume "fault cylinder D" would point you to #4 and include the Coil.
#3 and #4 cylinders are fired at the same time, they share a coil in the 3 coil pack.

The spark plugs on one coil in the pack are wired in series.
So one wire or spark plug can effect the other on that one coil.

OHM meter can be used to test coils and wires, swapping spark plugs from #3 to #2 and #4 to #5, and then seeing if code changes to p0302 or 0305

 

[6.2]

drove a bit more again today. no code came back.

i have all new wires and plugs, will swap those in when the weather gets nicer and see what happens.

ford dealer wanted $500 to do it lmao. hell naw

 

[6.2]

Finally came back. With a noticeable miss. Shakes at idle. Was hoping it would stat not noticeable until the weather got better. Might have to try and find a garage or just let the dealer do the plugs and wires.

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[6.2]

All fixed. Finally. Truck sat all week. Finally had time to change plugs and wires.

Maybe its cause I have a body lift bit it was a lot easier than the forums and shit made it out to be.

Only one that was a knuckle scraper was #4. Pain in the ass.

Runs smoother. Cleared my codes and hopefully they stay gone.



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[RonD]

Did you notice any difference in the old spark plugs when they were removed?

Like the #3 cylinder plug?

i.e. carbon or oil