PS Pump Whine & Clunking When Turning the Wheel...

[rusty ol ranger]

Lockouts are the way to go...

But since youve never had auto hubs before, you do realize you have to back up 10-15 feet or so after disengagement of 4wd to unlock them right?

Ill take a video of self centering action later so you can get an idea.

 

[rangerenthiusiast]

Lockouts are the way to go...

But since youve never had auto hubs before, you do realize you have to back up 10-15 feet or so after disengagement of 4wd to unlock them right?

Ill take a video of self centering action later so you can get an idea.

Hey, Rusty!

Yeah, I’ve had it in mind to switch to lockouts since I bought the truck, but there are just so many other things that needs fixing first, as the whole vehicle was pretty badly neglected by the PO.

At Denise’s recommendation above, I looked up how to do the switch in the Tech section of the site (didn’t even know this existed - great resource!). No, I didn’t know the part about having to back up 10-15 feet to disengage the hubs. Seems like just another reason to ditch them, though I do back up about 20’ every day to get out of my driveway when going to work. So I’d assume that if they were able to disengage, they’d have done it by now.

That’s really kind of you to offer a video of the self-centering wheel test! I think I can figure it out in a parking lot based on your input above, but if you wanna make a video, I sure won’t say no. Might help some other people following this thread in the future as well.

As always, thanks so much!

EDIT: I tried the self-centering test in an empty parking lot while I was out today (thanks to it being Easter, I was one of the few fools out there for once - which was heaven). The truck definitely did NOT self-center when I hit the gas. So does this necessarily mean that the steering box is bad? Or could a truck fail to self-center because of other things like shot tie rod ends?

 

[Denisefwd93]

Hey, Rusty!

Yeah, I’ve had it in mind to switch to lockouts since I bought the truck, but there are just so many other things that needs fixing first, as the whole vehicle was pretty badly neglected by the PO.

At Denise’s recommendation above, I looked up how to do the switch in the Tech section of the site (didn’t even know this existed - great resource!). No, I didn’t know the part about having to back up 10-15 feet to disengage the hubs. Seems like just another reason to ditch them, though I do back up about 20’ every day to get out of my driveway when going to work. So I’d assume that if they were able to disengage, they’d have done it by now.

That’s really kind of you to offer a video of the self-centering wheel test! I think I can figure it out in a parking lot based on your input above, but if you wanna make a video, I sure won’t say no. Might help some other people following this thread in the future as well.

As always, thanks so much!

EDIT: I tried the self-centering test in an empty parking lot while I was out today (thanks to it being Easter, I was one of the few fools out there for once - which was heaven). The truck definitely did NOT self-center when I hit the gas. So does this necessarily mean that the steering box is bad? Or could a truck fail to self-center because of other things like shot tie rod ends?

Even the alignment is easy to do well that's why opinion camber bushings turn easily if you spread the clamp everybody has trouble with the pinch bolt, I was pretty surprised I've put about five thousand miles on it since the new ball joints and the tires are wearing quite well

 

[rusty ol ranger]

Unless your alingment is WAY out of wack (like to the point youd be able to visually tell) then its the box.

I believe ranger boxes can be adjusted like the F series, but you may need to google "ford steering box adjustment". I know you have to loosen a nut on the top of the box and turn a screw to adjust "preload" but im not 100% sure of the particulars

EDIT...

http://www.therangerstation.com/forums/showthread.php?t=137250

 

[donaldcon]

So lets descrine this "pull" it has.

When you are going striaght down the road holding the steering wheel, is the wheel striaght up and down, to the left, or to the right?
Or does it bounce back and forth

When you are driving striaght and let go of the steering wheel, does the truck go left, striaght, or right


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[rangerenthiusiast]

So lets descrine this "pull" it has.

When you are going striaght down the road holding the steering wheel, is the wheel striaght up and down, to the left, or to the right?
Or does it bounce back and forth

When you are driving striaght and let go of the steering wheel, does the truck go left, striaght, or right


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Hey, Don.

Thanks for your questions. I’ll have to check the position of the steering wheel when I’m going straight down the road on my way to work tomorrow. Never really thought about it before. I’d definitely say that it doesn’t bounce back and forth, though.

As far as letting go of the wheel, it will noticeably pull to the right every time. Not yanking hard to the right immediately, not a long slow drift, but something somewhere in-between. It’s definitely noticeable, to the point where, within a few seconds, you’d be off-roading if you didn’t put a hand back on the steering stick. And if you really have to romp on the breaks in a quick stop situation, the truck dives hard to the right as well.

 

[Denisefwd93]

Hey, Don.

Thanks for your questions. I’ll have to check the position of the steering wheel when I’m going straight down the road on my way to work tomorrow. Never really thought about it before. I’d definitely say that it doesn’t bounce back and forth, though.

As far as letting go of the wheel, it will noticeably pull to the right every time. Not yanking hard to the right immediately, not a long slow drift, but something somewhere in-between. It’s definitely noticeable, to the point where, within a few seconds, you’d be off-roading if you didn’t put a hand back on the steering stick. And if you really have to romp on the breaks in a quick stop situation, the truck dives hard to the right as well.

Here again, a locked Hub can cause enough drag to make the truck pull left or right depending which one's locked or partially locked,

all stuff I've learned over the years

then there are also bad brake lines that don't quite release the brakes because they're swollen inside.

Problems just go on and on with old vehicles

 

[rangerenthiusiast]

@Denise: Good point about the hubs. I’ll have to get the truck up in the air and check by spinning the wheels to look for driveshaft engagement, as you recommended. In regard to the brakes, my very first thought when she dove to the right during hard braking was a frozen caliper. The PO replaced the brakes and brake lines prior to me buying it. Given how he “maintained” the truck in general, I really didn’t trust that the job was done right, although my local tire shop was in there poking around, mentioned that they noticed that the brakes and lines had all been replaced, but didn’t mention anything about it being a bad job so that they could replace parts. I’m almost afraid to look in there, but I’ll have to check it out soon, if I can get a day or two off...

 

[donaldcon]

Sounds more like a brake issue with the pull or atleast something mechanical on the right side. Camber would have to be seriously out of wack to cuase a pull. Toe wont cuase it. Dragging brake, addee drag from stuck hub, bad tires, etc all will cuase it.


If the wheel isnt walking id venture to assume steering box is ok, but not always so its worth a check especially with a clunk coming from some where.

Def need to jack it up and check stuff.

Squeal is pretty common on a ford pump, doesnt mean irs normal though, ive found a fluid flush will often cure it though. Sometimes its due to be changed.

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[rangerenthiusiast]

Sounds more like a brake issue with the pull or atleast something mechanical on the right side. Camber would have to be seriously out of wack to cuase a pull. Toe wont cuase it. Dragging brake, addee drag from stuck hub, bad tires, etc all will cuase it.


If the wheel isnt walking id venture to assume steering box is ok, but not always so its worth a check especially with a clunk coming from some where.

Def need to jack it up and check stuff.

Squeal is pretty common on a ford pump, doesnt mean irs normal though, ive found a fluid flush will often cure it though. Sometimes its due to be changed.

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Thanks, Don. Will do.

PS - In regard to your earlier question, when going down the road, the wheel is pretty much straight up and down.

 

[donaldcon]

Thanks, Don. Will do.

PS - In regard to your earlier question, when going down the road, the wheel is pretty much straight up and down.

Alignment it probably ok then. Check the rf over real good for a drag.

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[donaldcon]

If you find nothing dragging rotste front tires side to side and see if it changes the pull

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[Denisefwd93]

If you find nothing dragging rotste front tires side to side and see if it changes the pull

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We also found the left/driver's side front axle u-joint was pretty much locked up, I think they really go bad from non use rather than being used so that's also something to check

 

[rangerenthiusiast]

Alignment it probably ok then. Check the rf over real good for a drag.

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Forgot to mention that when I let go of the wheel, it pulls to the right. Not a hard jerk or a slow drift, but somewhere in between...

RF? Right Front?

 

[Denisefwd93]

Forgot to mention that when I let go of the wheel, it pulls to the right. Not a hard jerk or a slow drift, but somewhere in between...

RF? Right Front?

Are the rubber brake lines as old as the truck? They swell and collapse inside can cause calipers drag or not release.