• Welcome Visitor! Please take a few seconds and Register for our forum. Even if you don't want to post, you can still 'Like' and react to posts.

Project "Ricky"


Okay, I've got the new radiator, new water pimp (yes, pimp), and new thermostat. Radiator's drained. Thermostat housing is off. Flush now through the thermostat seat? Wait until the pimp is off the block? Or is this when I sacrifice the chicken and make a Jackson Pollock with it's innards?
View attachment 35556View attachment 35557View attachment 35558View attachment 35601View attachment 35602
Edit: Well, things are back in. New radiator and thermostat, but I didn't manage the water pimp. Still no heat, so I'll have to try again and look more closely at the heater core.
Neglected cooling systems seriously suck.

Wait. Youre an air cooled guy.

When you flushed the block, what did the crap coming out look like?

If someone ran a bottle of radiator stop leak or head gasket repair through the system, you're going to be fighting a lot of crap all through the system.

Anything but coolant and water going into the cooling system is seriously bad news.
 
So, I did buy a bottle of Super Duper Flush Yer System, but I forgot to use it. I talked to my uncle, who's been rebuilding Chevy Impalas since the '60s, about my flushing technique (pulled the thermostat, put the thermostat housing back on, poked the hose into that, ran water into the system until it spilled over, ran the engine for a bit, drained the system, repeat from "ran water") and he says since I didn't get the system under pressure, I missed stuff (like the heater core in particular). But when I stopped that process I was at least pouring out reasonably translucent stuff. Before that, it mostly looked like diarrhea. Thank goodness it didn't smell that way. Just brownish water.
 
Here's a head scratcher: should a 3L V6 from 1993 really feel as gutless as this one does to a driver who's used to a 1.9L four-popper, even taking into account all the extra weight?
 
The 3.0L's have a power band that comes on higher up in the rpm range. You really have to wind them up to make power. That's the main reason I've never owned one.
 
I don't doubt that you know whereof you speak. It just doesn't make sense in my head. So, what? Are the cylinders just really skinny or something?
 
My 98 with the 3.0 and 5 speed manual wasn't that quick until you got the rpms over 3500
 
Generally speaking, Ford V engines need revs to make power; their low end grunt just isn't there.

This is especially true of the 3.0 Vulcan. Google for some dyno results.
 
I'm mostly just curious about why that is, y'know?
 
It is probably about head flow rates and camshaft profile. I've never really looked at any specs for one.
 
It's a brilliant exercise in Russian engineering:

Aluminum is scary. Our v6 iron heads crack. So add more iron. Like, triple the iron everywhere. Smolt so much iron that it suffocates itself in carbon due to poor fuel atomization. Call it Vulcan because it's frigging jam packed with iron.

Iron. Iron good.
 

Sponsored Ad


Sponsored Ad

TRS Events

Member & Vendor Upgrades

For a small yearly donation, you can support this forum and receive a 'Supporting Member' banner, or become a 'Supporting Vendor' and promote your products here. Click the banner to find out how.

Recently Featured

Want to see your truck here? Share your photos and details in the forum.

Ranger Adventure Video

TRS Merchandise

Follow TRS On Instagram

TRS Sponsors


Sponsored Ad


Sponsored Ad


Amazon Deals

Sponsored Ad

Back
Top