Project 4x4 Commuter Mazda

[legoms013]

I second this idea, it is how I did mine, pretty hard to screw up.

I will probably just tack one of the perches (and base the other off of the tacked one), since my springs are real screwy and require different height lift blocks. If the perches are not on the same plane, nasty, nasty spring wrap follows.

Wish my locker would show up, I potentially get this thing under my truck this weekend if it did.

 

[88_Eddie]

i dont think you're lookin at much more down time if you do it that way. all you need to do is remove the u-bolts and leave it under the truck. yeah, it would be a little harder/tighter work area, but still doable.

my b2 isnt my DD though, so i can leave it sitting in my garage if need be. plus, with me, when i try and save time and take short cuts, shit starts going wrong real fast lol. something doesnt get attached or something gets permanently welded somewhere it shouldnt hahaha.

 

[Kyle M.]

Are you saying that the pinion is directly in line with your driveline @ static ride height?

No, not directly, but it is up more than stock considering the lift and what not. Like I said, I think my pinion is is at about 10* when everything is mounted.

I wouldn't guess and weld it before you put it together.

 

[-Nathan-]

No, not directly, but it is up more than stock considering the lift and what not. Like I said, I think my pinion is is at about 10* when everything is mounted.

I wouldn't guess and weld it before you put it together.

^this. You should definitely put it all together, then figure where you want the perches, tack em, and take it apart to burn them in. Might take a bit more time initially, but you wont be messing with a ton after.

 

[legoms013]

I agree but, I was lead to believe that in a 2 u-joint driveline setup, the transfer case output and pinion flanged were supposed to be parallel, despite their different altitudes. Is this right or wrong? If this is right, stock pinion angle or slightly more would work fine. Maybe even a degree or two less due to the beltechs effectively making the pinion angle 4* or so I'm estimating. This is not the case for me, my pinion points directly at my driveshaft, meaning I would need less pinion angle than stock.

 

[kris97ranger]

That's true I just went through this with my da. He explained it so well and now I can't explain it lol nut it's actually supposed to have the pinion angle the same as the transfercase I think

 

[Kyle M.]

I agree but, I was lead to believe that in a 2 u-joint driveline setup, the transfer case output and pinion flanged were supposed to be parallel, despite their different altitudes. Is this right or wrong? If this is right, stock pinion angle or slightly more would work fine. Maybe even a degree or two less due to the beltechs effectively making the pinion angle 4* or so I'm estimating. This is not the case for me, my pinion points directly at my driveshaft, meaning I would need less pinion angle than stock.

If it is pointing right at it, without any issues, I would keep it the same. the higher up, the better clearance you have.

Just my 2 cents

 

[legoms013]

If it is pointing right at it, without any issues, I would keep it the same. the higher up, the better clearance you have.

Just my 2 cents

I have noticeable driveline vibes @ 65mph, so I'm gonna set it around 4*, or what evermakes it halfway between where it should point and where it is pointing now....its pointing all wrong right now. My GoPro camera verified that at freeway speeds it spins oblong due to only one u-joint having a operating angle.

Its possible next weekend I will do the welding and swap it in

Dad got his tie-rods, TRE's, and pitman arm today..so I through some paint on it all:

Got me 20' of 1.5"x3/16" flatbar:

And MOST importantly, my locker finally came in. Its a beefy lil guy:

Also cut off the excess portion of the spring perches on one end. But I kept the other end as is, in case I ever need to move my axle back an 1":

 

[legoms013]

Locker in, tie-rods painted and on. Dad only has the shock mounts, brakes to bleed and test drive and his D44 swap is done!

 

[chrwilkins30]

Good job!

 

[kris97ranger]

why would you cut the perches? i always make mine like 6" long rather then the stock length i still get good flex and it helps battle axle wrap

 

[legoms013]

why would you cut the perches? i always make mine like 6" long rather then the stock length i still get good flex and it helps battle axle wrap

Well b/c with a block or a shim the leaf pack won't touch the full contact of the perch anyway. Plus I think it would look sorta goofy to have a block on them that only covers 4.5" of the 8" AKA lots of extra unused perch. But I kept one end in the case I wanna move the axle back 1".

The extra length is really dual purpose, to allow the user to move the axle forward or back an 1" and to help fight axle wrap (but that only works if no blocks or shims are used).

Working on idler, sliders and perches:

I love having 2 spares:

Found out my current pinion angle is 8* and transfercase is 6*. So most likely I'm gonna weld the new perches @ 6*, will verify during the swap.

 

[Kyle M.]

Looks good! You should weld your axle tubes while you have it out.

 

[legoms013]

Looks good! You should weld your axle tubes while you have it out.

Absolutely

Need to weld, perches, shock mounts and tubes... I am debating if I wanna start that after I finish up my idler today.....hmmm

 

[legoms013]

Today's fruits:

And no I will not make another one, what a PITA that was