Powertrain Control Module

[rumblecloud]

Not sure this qualifies as "miscellaneous," but I just pulled it to check on its condition thinking it might be the cause of my most recent issues.
Surprisingly, it looks really good. But your thoughts are welcome...thanks.

I'm going to clean it up a little and replace it

Side note on removal:
The SOBs used a 10mm nut on the top easy-to-get-to nut and a 7/16" on the bottom one that you have to get to by feel mostly (unless you pull the fender liner. I just hole-sawed an access point and will cut a cover for the hole.

 

[holyford86]

the capacitor on the right hand side looks like it may have failed, seems like there may be corrosion under it, unless my eyes suck more than I think

 

[RobbieD]

That right front capacitor doesn't look great. Looks like a leakage stain on the PCB from the rear leg, and maybe green corrosion on the front leg.

 

[rumblecloud]

Yep...both right . I cleaned up with q-tips and alcohol. Here's what I think was the problem all along....


I do not know for sure at this point, but indications are that this was the culprit causing my problems -- fingers crossed.

Nevertheless, no codes. Went slow at first, increased speed slowly. Finally got th nerve to stomp it when I was close to home.
Shocked that it worked.

EDIT: cleaned up the gibberish - must have been really tired.

 

[RonD]

Change all 3 blue capacitors, under $5
They are done after 20 years

You need to match the uF, but the voltage(v) rating can be higher on replacement

i.e. 16uF 16v can be replaced with 16uF, 50v, doesn't help or hurt, its just helpful if exact voltage is not available

Capacitors are used to stabilize voltage on a circuit, before complete failure, i.e. leaking or bulging top, they will cause other issues, but never set codes

Yes, that ground point was pretty bad

 

[rumblecloud]

Looks like I need two 16V 47 uf and one 63V 10 uf. I will go ahead and purchase them (quick search found 3-packs through Amazon for around $5 - $6) , but for right now, I am going to enjoy the driving part. Now that I know how to pull it (20 minutes maybe) and what I am dealing with I am not so hesitant about doing it. I'm not really good at soldering, but capable enough to do this.

I still want to shakedown the truck to convince me that the problem is solved -- and give the wife something else to talk about ---wait di I just say that out loud?

 

[Angry Possum]

Looks like I need two 16V 47 uf and one 63V 10 uf. I will go ahead and purchase them (quick search found 3-packs through Amazon for around $5 - $6) , but for right now, I am going to enjoy the driving part. Now that I know how to pull it (20 minutes maybe) and what I am dealing with I am not so hesitant about doing it. I'm not really good at soldering, but capable enough to do this.

I still want to shakedown the truck to convince me that the problem is solved -- and give the wife something else to talk about ---wait di I just say that out loud?


View attachment 83659 View attachment 83660

This is the info with regards to the proper Caps I was looking for.
Two 16V 47 uf and One 63V 10 uf
Is yours a 93 4.0L Automatic ?

 

[RonD]

Google: electronic component shops

Should be under $5 for the 3 you need in 105deg Black, even when buying 5 packs
They cost 30 to 50cents each, i.e. $1.50 for 5
As said, if cap has 16v(volt) rating you can use 25v, 35v, 50v, 63v ect..........and it works the same
But uF has to match exactly

 

[Angry Possum]

Google: electronic component shops

Should be under $5 for the 3 you need in 105deg Black, even when buying 5 packs
They cost 30 to 50cents each, i.e. $1.50 for 5
As said, if cap has 16v(volt) rating you can use 25v, 35v, 50v, 63v ect..........and it works the same
But uF has to match exactly

I got 10 - 47uF and 10- 10uF on eBay. The total cost was under $3.00 for twenty pieces.
That's the only way they sell them 10 pieces. So I will have extras for anyone if needed, for free, I will pay it forward.