Power Window/Mirror/Lock Conversion How To

[jasongind]

Here is a little how-to on converting manual window/mirror/locks to power. I have a 2001 and used a 1999 donor truck. I just took the entire door, cutting the wires where they go into the cab. Once I got the donor door home I simply pulled the panel. I’m not going to go into how to do that. Once the panel, speaker and protective liner is removed you can see all the wiring.

From here I disconnected the plugs for the lock actuator and door ajar switch which are hooked to the door lock mechanism. In order to get your hand in there remove the 11mm brass bolt that holds the window track and remove it.

Now you can remove the three torx screws that hold the lock mechanism and remove it from the door. Once that is out you can remove the 4 bolts holding in the power window motor. Three of these bolts are easily accessible, the last one isn’t so easy.

In the next pic you can see the hole I drilled in the door to remove the last bolt holding the motor in. Now you have to remove the window acuator (gear). I used the ever trusty hammer and chisel and made quick work or it. There are 4 rivets to chisel off.

With the actuator rivets removed you can remove the actuator.

Once you have that removed its time to work on your door. Remove the door panel, mirror, speaker and liner. Tape the window so that it doesn’t fall when you unhook the manual actuator.

Here is a pic of the manual door wiring harness.

You can cut this harness right after speaker. It should only be a black (ground) and yellow/black wire for the door ajar switch. Remove the manual actuator the same way you did the other one. Once it is removed put it into your door.

That little black plastic piece on the end of the arm will go into the window track. This actuator will bolt right into the factory holes in the door so no drilling is needed. I used #8 ½” bolts and nuts with locking washers to hold it in. Once that is in, remove your manual door lock assembly and install the power one. Lay the power wiring assembly into your door the same way it was attached to the other door. If you didn’t break the little Christmas tree pins you can use them and the holes are already in your door. You can attach door ajar wires together, they are the same (yellow/black, and black). The mirror will have a plug that just plugs into the harness. Once you are at this point comes the real fun, wiring. In all actual its not that hard to do.

This how to will be continued until I can get some pics of the final wiring. I'll do it this weekend sometime. In the mean time I will answer any questions. Hope this helps a few people out.

 

[Ranger Sport Honduras]

good job man!! maybe a mod could stick this

 

[locovaca]

Or perhaps just submit it as a tech article

I just did the same thing in my 93. Looks fairly similar. The Rivets are far easier to drill out than chisel off, looks like you nicked the metal a bit chiseling. You punch out the center, then drill off the cap. Works like a charm. I also re-riveted the door lock actuator and power window regulators, they are 1/4 inch rivets which I had to order online since nobody local carries them.

I also didn't remove the power window motor bolts, I simply removed the regulator and motor as one unit. Once you get the regulator free from the window base, I just connected the motor to a battery to compress the regulator and it slipped out like a charm.

Keep it coming!

 

[alain]

Or perhaps just submit it as a tech article

I just did the same thing in my 93. Looks fairly similar. The Rivets are far easier to drill out than chisel off, looks like you nicked the metal a bit chiseling. You punch out the center, then drill off the cap. Works like a charm. I also re-riveted the door lock actuator and power window regulators, they are 1/4 inch rivets which I had to order online since nobody local carries them.

I also didn't remove the power window motor bolts, I simply removed the regulator and motor as one unit. Once you get the regulator free from the window base, I just connected the motor to a battery to compress the regulator and it slipped out like a charm.

Keep it coming!

This is how i've done mine.

Good work.

 

[jasongind]

Or perhaps just submit it as a tech article

I just did the same thing in my 93. Looks fairly similar. The Rivets are far easier to drill out than chisel off, looks like you nicked the metal a bit chiseling. You punch out the center, then drill off the cap. Works like a charm. I also re-riveted the door lock actuator and power window regulators, they are 1/4 inch rivets which I had to order online since nobody local carries them.

I also didn't remove the power window motor bolts, I simply removed the regulator and motor as one unit. Once you get the regulator free from the window base, I just connected the motor to a battery to compress the regulator and it slipped out like a charm.

Keep it coming!

I frist attempted to drill the rivets out but my drill ran out of power. I forgot to recharge it after my last project, and being the impatient one that I am I went to the next thing I knew would get them out. I wasnt worried about the metal on the blue door since it is the donor, my door I was able to chisle mar free. I was also going to re rivet the actuator in but after a trip to Schucks and two to Home Depot I realived no one carries those rivets. I already discussed my patients level so that is why I went with the nuts and bolts. Works just as good I think and I didnt have to wait 3-5 days for shipping. As far as the regulator and motor as one unit, I didnt even think about that, good call.

How do you submit as a tech artical? I still need to do the wiring write up but I'm just waiting for a free chance to get out there and get some pics then write it up.

 

[locovaca]

I think there's a guide under the Tech Article submission forum on what you need. These are the rivets I ordered: http://www.clipsandfasteners.com/1_4_Window_Regulator_Rivets_GM_Ford_Chrysler_p/pas4007-25.htm

Technically the door lock actuator uses a different rivet (http://www.clipsandfasteners.com/Ford_Door_Lock_Actuator_Peel_Type_Rivet_p/a19458.htm) but since it also was 1/4 I just used the regulator rivet and had no issues doing so.

Yeah, it took about 3 days to get the rivets but I wasn't under a time constraint (truck hasn't been running for a month, doing a big eletcrical rewiring project including the windows).

 

[jasongind]

A tech articale for what, submitting a tech articale?

The lock actuator on my truck arnet held on with rivets. They are held on with a #27 torx so I was able to just reuse them.

My truck is my dd in the winter. I have a CBR1000RR I ride just about everyday in the summer, but since I'm in WA it rains all the time in the winter and its not the greatest to ride in.

 

[locovaca]

The lock actuator on my truck arnet held on with rivets. They are held on with a #27 torx so I was able to just reuse them.

Must be something they changed when they redid the interior. Just to be clear, I'm talking about the power lock actuator, not the lock itself. The lock on mine is torx as well.

 

[jasongind]

the lock actuator and lock mechanism are all one unit on my truck and held on by the three torx.

 

[locovaca]

the lock actuator and lock mechanism are all one unit on my truck and held on by the three torx.

Yeah, then it's different. The older ones have a separate actuator at the base of the door with a rod linkage up to the door lock.

 

[jasongind]

I hope the salvage yard is open tomorrow so I can grab a passanger door and get that all swapped over. Then I'll be living the high lige with full power lol.

 

[locovaca]

While I was in there, I also installed a couple of Taurus One Touch Down modules. If you're going to be at the yard, grab a couple of them, it's an easy swap since you're already in there and just adds to the convenience factor.

http://taurusclub.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=74654

 

[jasongind]

yeah I was wanting to do this. I remember seeing a how to on it a few weeks ago but couldnt find it again. Is it the same procedure in the Rangers as in the link you provided? thanks for the info.

 

[locovaca]

It's the same procedure but I don't think the wire colors were the same. This one is for a 99 Explorer, so it should be almost identical to your 99/01:

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=141027&highlight=window

For the passenger window, depending on where you wire it up you can have both the Drivers and Passenger switches be one touch down (by wiring it into the passenger door), or just the Drivers switch (by wiring it on the driver side). I went passenger side, both for the convenience and the ease of fitting one module in each door vs. two on the driver side.

 

[jasongind]

I plan on making both windows one touch down from the drivers side. I'll just mount the passander windos module in the dash mid wire from the drivers door so I dont have to worry about room in the drivers door. I already have to DPDT relays in there for the locks and will have the same for the passangers lock.