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Poser


I don't think dropping it is going to help. The passenger side is Just too short.
The toe change is just too much for the travel. I'll be strapping it so that it doesn't go too far.

To be honest Shawn, I didn't notice any improvement when I took the stock linkage off and put the runner system on.:no2:After running it for nearly a year I just don't think its all that it's cracked up to be.

I think it's time to dust off the CAD model, and start working something out.

About 20 min worth of playing


Bullshit! you've seen the pics of mine, tell me why the toe on mine isn't all over the place then. :rolleyes:

I believe I've already mentioned this to you before, but I'll mention it again, that centerlink needs to be aligned with the damn pivots. Your shit's way too high up, and is why you're having a fawkin toe problem.

Your crossover idea isn't going to eliminate much bumpsteer either if it's not lined up properly. :no2:
 
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Bullshit! you've seen the pics of mine, tell me why the toe on mine isn't all over the place then. :rolleyes:

I believe I've already mentioned this to you before, but I'll mention it again, that centerlink needs to be aligned with the damn pivots. Your shit's way too high up, and is why you're having a fawkin toe problem.

Your crossover idea isn't going to eliminate much bumpsteer either if it's not lined up properly. :no2:

Yeah but it looks like his has more flex than yours...



































:icon_rofl: :stirthepot:
 
I hink yall are Wasting your time with that knuckle type steering. Something will ALWAYS be breaking on it. It's too many moving parts--joints, arms links steering box--how to you keep track of it. It's binches of junk.

What I would do if I had a truck would be to welding all of the crap together in a straight-ahead position. Then, put a big phwaaking bolt rite down throuth the middle of it. just need a rope then.

Billy Cart steering.

LAK02526.JPG


I also have an idea that gets rid of all the rest of the problematic shit on your trucks. No more piece of shit driveshaft and such. Think about it like a motorized Billy Cart.

this is me hauling a load of Hindu Kush to market when I was in the Peace Corps.

Xian_tractorNCP.jpg


I gotta pee.
 
:icon_confused:

This
MoreBIV364.jpg



is more than

702959_62_full.jpg


??


Admittedly, the toe on Joels doesn't seem to appear any worse, although it's possible for pics to be deceiving.
FWIW, here's where the centerlink is on mine, it's about ¾" above the pivots (Ideal would be directly inline with them, although I didn't feel like messing with it again, and it's close enough).

702959_61_full.jpg
 
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The other thing you have to remember is that your running 2.5" lift brackets, mine are 4". I'd have to drop the center link 2" just to run it flat with the pivots like you say. I just don't feel comfortable modifying the linkage for that much drop. It'll prolly end up like this one and I'll be on the scary steering page.
480248_15_full.jpg


The other problem I have is that the end of the threads on the TRE's have only about 3/4" of thread engagement in to the adjusters. I don't feel safe driving it like that. I'm going to go back to the stock linkage untill I can get something sorted out with it.

I won't be just adding a block to the linkage like you did. I'll be making a new 1 piece block.
 
Nothing at all wrong with that if you beef up the idlerarm and it's bracket accordingly (and replace the upper urethane bushings with Delrin or other harder material (or even a needle bearing). I have a buddy who's been running his dropped 2" with 6" brackets for a few years now with no issues (TTB coils on his). The fact that guy used (what I guess is) a piece of tubing is a little odd though (that looks like it's been dropped over 4 inches too).


But whatever, having the crossover setup should be badass, no doubt it'll control the toe at the extremes of travel even better if it's lined up good. How have you worked out your clearances so the tierods won't hit the diff or your idler/pitman arms?
 
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How have you worked out your clearances so the tierods won't hit the diff or your idler/pitman arms?

I'm slowly working on it. I've got to get the timing right. as it is right now 20° or pitman arm travel is to wheel lock. So 40° is lock to lock. Just a tad too quick.

I've yet to aticulate the suspension. It's comming along.
 
The other thing you have to remember is that your running 2.5" lift brackets, mine are 4". I'd have to drop the center link 2" just to run it flat with the pivots like you say. I won't be just adding a block to the linkage like you did. I'll be making a new 1 piece block.

Interesting point though. Cuz after just ditching my 2.5" brackets and now using 4" skyjackers and superrunner steering I am noticing that even with the centerlink droped a 1/4" my TRE is probably still 1" above the bolt.

And if it were to be inline, the links would probably be a little diagonal instead of parallel with the ground (which they are now). Although my drop brackets may drop a little too far for the lift.

Still think driveability is better than stock and hopefully off road will also be better.

But to ask both Joels and Shawns opinion. Is my problem now that the brackets are too long for the lift and the centerlink not droped enough? (Not meant to hijack)

2084799_78_full.jpg
 
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But to ask both Joels and Shawns opinion. Is my problem now that the brackets are too long for the lift and the centerlink not droped enough?

In my opinion the flatter the links better. Inline with the pivots to me is unachievable for the stock D35. I may be able to get away with it with the D44 knuckles. I'm going to get my center block dropped 2" and moved forward 3/8", and give it a second go.
SuperD35036.jpg


The only issue is with extreme travel. That's where the limits are drawn.
 
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Ok cardomain sucks I thought I posted a pic of my front end but just saw a pic of rancho axle pivot brackets I was selling. Weird!


Anyway I was just curious how stock could ever be better than the superrunner? And also as far as extreme travel I think that is when many limits or drawn not matter if its a TTB or Straight axle.
 
SuperD35036.jpg


That's a pretty Camburg style beam ya got there. You planning on jumping that Bronco II or something?
 
Yo,
How come I see some people's TREs bolted from the bottom (copykat), and others bolted from the top(junkie)?
 
i was actually kinda wondering that myself....
 

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