Actually not much "pressing" is involved at all.
And the bellhousing not being removeable isn't really a factor.
It takes less time to completely disassemble a Mazda trans that it takes to simply replace the bearing in an earlier trans, and frankly the mazda input bearing is effectively indestructable, If I had $5 for each dead input bearin I've seen in the last 15 years I still wouldn't have enough money to buy a meal at my favorite chinese buffet
Other than the puller to get the rear most bearing off the mainshaft.... there are few special tools needed.
THE issue is people taking apart things they don't need to that are essentially impossible to reassemble the way they take them apart....
there are two "NEVERS" to mazda trans disassembly:
1)NEVER remove the 5/Rev shift fork from it's shaft, remove it as an assembly by removing th eshaft retaining bolt from the case.
2)NEVER Remove the reverse idler from the reverse idler shaft (the idler shaft must come out of the case ANYWAY) EXCEPT to inspect the ID of the gear and the rollers (I have seen pitted rollers and a pitted ID on a reverse idler gear.... exactly ONCE)
If you first remove the 3/4 synchro assembly and 3rd gear from the FRONT of the mainshaft
You can then stand the bare (empty) transmission case on it's bellhousing place the mainshaft in the rear mainshaft bearing bore and several taps with a 3lb hammer will drife the shaft out of the rear tapered bearing and leave you with a bare shaft insied the trans case and a stack of gears resting on the bearing bulkhead
(This takes me less time to do than it took to type the paragraph above... Yes, really!)
IF there was ever a perfect transmission for a beginner to rebuilt the Mazda M5OD-R1 would get my vote.
That all being said THE thing about rebuilding a manual transmission is knowing what you are looking at when you've got it apart.
I'm not talking about identifying the bad parts, that can be done by almost any idiot, with as much difficulty as picking the zebra out of a herd of horses...what I'm talking about is identifying the ALMOST bad part...
Some stuff if obviously bad, what I'm talking about is stuff that isn't "obviously" bad but is still bad...
spotting cavitation pitting at the tooth roots on 5th gear....
Or knowing how much play there should be between a synchro collar and the shift fork...
And it really can't be explained in a few short posts here on the forum
And please don't PM me with general questions requesting more in-depth answers....
I dislike typing tech information that only one person can benefit from....
So keep it in the public forums.
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