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Pocket bearing going out.


z987k

Member
Joined
Jan 28, 2010
Messages
23
City
Portland, OR
Vehicle Year
1993
Transmission
Manual
Whines in all gears but 4th. How hard is this to replace? I assume you have to drop the transmission. I'm good enough with engines, I don't think twice about tearing into anything but the bottom end. Even more so if I know the engine, but I've never done anything with a transmission.
If I have this done, is it worth just getting the bearing replaced, total rebuild or just new one? I can't find the part online, so I'm not sure how much I'm looking at if I have a shop do it.

Any help is appreciated.
 
Parts are hard to find without getting a total rebuild kit. That one bearing is not hard to replace. The worst part of it is just getting the main shaft apart and back together because it is a tight fit in the case.
 
Should he also check that the "oil scupper thingy" which funnels the splashed-up ATF to the pocket bearing is in place, not clogged, etc.?

On a M5OD learning curve myself...
 
To replace the pocket bearing is not that hard but the whole transmission needs to be dropped. The pocket baring can be accessed by unbolting the front bearing retainer and removing the input shaft. Like the other 2 said you really need to tear it all the way down and replace every thing that you can. Buy the whole rebuild kit with bearings and seals. You may find the input and mainshaft are destroyed due to the pocket bearing being bad. Those have to be replaced and cannot be fixed. While the transmission is out and you may as well check the clutch and it's related parts too. Replace if any parts of it is questionable.
 
To replace the pocket bearing is not that hard but the whole transmission needs to be dropped. The pocket baring can be accessed by unbolting the front bearing retainer and removing the input shaft. Like the other 2 said you really need to tear it all the way down and replace every thing that you can. Buy the whole rebuild kit with bearings and seals. You may find the input and mainshaft are destroyed due to the pocket bearing being bad. Those have to be replaced and cannot be fixed. While the transmission is out and you may as well check the clutch and it's related parts too. Replace if any parts of it is questionable.

IF the inputshaft can be removed from the front without removing 5th, Reverse and all the associated parts off the back AND popping out the countershaft bearin either the input gear OR the case is broken.

While I can knock an M5OD-R1 completely to component parts in about 40minutes I doubt many other people can... few have had the same chance to repeatedly practice it.

Frankly I'm about as good at it as your typical Marine is at field stripping
their rifle. To the casual observer you kinda wave your hands at it and
pieces fly across the bench in different directions

You should see me with a 1911-A1, I've disassembled one, reassembled it, disassembled it again and reassembled it a second time in slightly under
60seconds. It's a beautiful thing to see... Not the disaasembly/reassembly...
But the mouth of a former marine drill instructor with his mouth hanging open (drawing flies) in awe:)

AD
 
I have snuck them out on times. Some are easier than others due to internal wear.
 
IF the inputshaft can be removed from the front without removing 5th, Reverse and all the associated parts off the back AND popping out the countershaft bearin either the input gear OR the case is broken.

GOOD point to know.


You should see me with a 1911-A1, I've disassembled one, reassembled it, disassembled it again and reassembled it a second time in slightly under
60seconds. It's a beautiful thing to see... AD


Is that blindfolded, or "cheating"?... I kid. :icon_thumby:

Just to be clear, disassembly in this case = Field Stripping... NOT e.g., removing the mainspring housing, mainspring itself, sear, trigger, stocks, etc...

That said, your skill and dexterity are impressive, and bra-wearing wimminz everywhere should be alert! :D
 
Field stripping means getting the slide off and the recoil spring, guide rod, barrel and barrel bushing out of the slide.

Anything more constitutes "Detail stripping"

And every 1911 I've ever owned had a full length guide rod installed which
makes it more difficult.

On a Milspec 1911 which has no guide rod I've managed three times apart and back together in 62seconds as a personal best.

The one I practice on most is my Delta Elite which has 2.5times the spring
tension as a stock 1911 45ACP, the interference from the guide-rod and
the extra spring tension makes it a great training aide

Series 80 Colt Auto's have an annoying "Collet" style barrel bushing that
really slows you down.
 
While I can knock an M5OD-R1 completely to component parts in about 40minutes I doubt many other people can... few have had the same chance to repeatedly practice it.

Although you doubt that many people can, i've gotten pretty close. Usually if i'm doing it on my own work bench which I put up just for stripping Mazda transmissions I can do it inside 60 minutes for sure and that's being completely organized. If I was tearing one down for "salvage parts" I can be a little less careful and get closer to 40. As you said though it's all about being able to repeatedly practice.... And such an over-abundance of Mazda transmissions flowing through this area.
 
I can feel it coming... the M5OD service video... available only to Premium Members... resulting in huge increase in paying members... subtle. :icon_thumby:
 

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