PlumCrazy's Beater DD 4x4 Build

[ryan]

I may also look into WJ knuckles or the Teraflex pass side knuckle eventually to move the drag link up a bit.

I'd keep an eye open for a built axle on marketplace that someone is selling when they go to 44s or tons, but that pitman arm will help a lot

 

[PlumCrazy]

I'd keep an eye open for a built axle on marketplace that someone is selling when they go to 44s or tons, but that pitman arm will help a lot

Thats also a stock 4x4 drop arm. If I stumble upon a bigger drop I will swap it, For what this truck will be....a little bump steer ain't going to bother me.

 

[PlumCrazy]

8*....good enough for girls we date.

Late YJ drag link and an 80s Mopar TRE of some sort on the pitman end made this drag link pretty easy honestly.

Wrapped up the trans vent/catch can. Ran a hose up from the hard line to an old clutch reservoir.

 

[Terrys87]

Really enjoyed reading your thread. Sorry to hear about your dog. Wish I had some of your skills on the transmissions, rear ends and Fabing, you have been doing some great work. I see you looking for a bed. I am in southwest Missouri, and we have excellent beds and usually plenty of them in my area. Regular and Flareside and the salvages want around $300 for one. If you are interested, I can send you some links to salvages that sometimes post them on their websites. Looking forward to your 88 build as that is what I am building as well. Great work you are doing.

 

[PlumCrazy]

Thanks hoss. Im probably due for a good road trip out west. I haven't made the drive to Missouri in years

 

[PlumCrazy]

FYI....Ruff Stuff is over 2 weeks behind shipping orders so I'm still stalled out on this project.

I dont want to build shock mounts, driveshaft, or run brake lines until the axle is 100% in its final position and I can't do that until my order shows up.

I did swap out the vacuum CAD for a Posi Lok cable setup. It will be nice to have the ability to put the truck in "2 low" for yard work and such. The cable provided in the "stock height" Jeep kit is pretty long which made finding place to mount the knob that was convenient and kept the cable routed smoothly and tucked out of harms way a challenge. Whenever (if ever) I make a shift boot bezel and boot setup Ill integrate the knob into that.

I considered using vacuum and mounting a valve in the cab to control it independently of the transfers case....but the canister was rotted out and the cable seemed like the more reliable option.

 

[Terrys87]

I was at Buddy’s Salvage in Springfield Mo today. They had several of these in wide bed and narrow bed. Some in better shape then this one but to show how rust is not an issue.

 

[PlumCrazy]

Axle is in for good.

Tow hooks cleaned up and painted.

Sand blasted all the attachment points on the frame and got the shackle mounts welded to crossmember and everything welded in.

Rear mounts welded on and used what was trimmed off the shackle mounts to gusset to the frame.

If the truck was in better shape and I cared more I would probably remove the cab mounts and build an inagrated cab/spring mount.

Stock D35 driveshaft bolted right in after I scrounged up bolts for the t case side....I may swap for the longer D28/35 hybrid shaft I have since it's about an inch longer. The D35 shaft is pretty stretched out after bolting it in.

Hybrid shaft on top, standard D35 shaft on bottom

4x4 Shifter clears well enough in low

Calipers, pads, and rotors mounted up

Pulled the cover to inspect, seal, and add oil. Looked minty

Went on a test drive (brakes and shocks are unnecessary) and it was smooth as butter...but to be honest I think I'll be figuring out a track bar before returning to full-time DD duty.

Next up is frame repair/reinforcement and shock mounts. I cut out the soft bits so far. Next I'll sandblast, paint with zinc/weldable primer and then plate it. I should be able to weld it from both sides on this side of the truck.

Then brake lines will be the final task.

 

[Terrys87]

Looks like you had a weekend of progress. Great job!!!

 

[PlumCrazy]

Didnt have much time in the shop last night, but I put a baby wheel on and pulled the truck outside for some sandblasting around the area that I cut out. I ended up removing a little more as well due to how thin it was.

Painted up with some weldable paint.

Had to do a few 12oz curls to come up with template material

 

[PlumCrazy]

DR side went quick due to much less rust. Cut out and welded in a plug. Sandblasted and primed it.

Cut out patches.

Got the DR side welded up (dont judge... I learned lessons about weld thru primer)

Can't wrap up the pass side until my latest investment shows up.

 

[Terrys87]

You got your patch in really nice. Looks great.

 

[PlumCrazy]

Shop upgrade arrived.

Some assembly required because I'm a cheap ass, but it did the thing.

Did the full renforcement deal, but had to trial the brake first. My brother gave me crap for wasting money on something I could make, but lll admit....SWAG stuff just works out of the box. It's worth more in convenience than anything.

My time is worth more than what they charge for a killer product. Their portaband table is worth its weight in gold IMO. I have literally worn out two Milwaukee saws on the same table.

 

[PlumCrazy]

4x4 swap complete(ish). Racked up about 60 mi test driving on the way to dinner and back. 100% will get a track bar and shift boots... Bump steer is pretty intense and could really be a problem for someone that doesn't know how to drive it (drive it like a 3-wheeler...Don't try and hold the handlebars too tight). The heat that pours out around the 4x4 shifter is crazy with a window cracked.

Patched up the pass side

OBS Ford rear shock mounts were almost perfect. They needed at little angle adjustment... Not sure if it's supposed to be that way or because these were made in China.... But I took a few degrees out of them.

Did my best to make both sides symmetrical

Ran some brake lines to 4-in lift YJ hoses and a tee mounted on the DR frame rail

Ended up using some random shocks that I bought from an online auction for like five bucks.... No idea what application they're for but they came with overload coil springs and stuff that I used for some other side project years ago. Literally the perfect length.

 

[PlumCrazy]

Put another 100 miles on it today and I'm getting a feel for how drive it on back roads. Smooth freeway is butter. Drives straight and smooth... definitely more underpowered than before with all this extra rotating mass. RPM at 70 is the exact same as it was with a little tires... but not nearly as spunky.

Honestly flexes better than I expected.