PlumCrazy's Beater DD 4x4 Build

[PlumCrazy]

Damn Ford... they needed a couple more version of that.

Awesome work around...

I have been through this before...hence the modified one on the far right. Auto vs Manual, 1350 vs 1354 all seem to change things up. I'm always mixing and matching from unknown donors it seems.

 

[PlumCrazy]

Well spring is here and I got side tracked...but I did make some unplanned progress.

This truck similar to my other high mileage 2.3 suffered from a heavy miss when cold (especially if you go over 3k rpm with cold oil)...

Finally found the issue...the exhaust valve seats are sunk into the head and get to a point the lifters can't collapse enough to let the valve seal. Cold oil doesn't bleed off quick enough and really makes the issue worse when the lifters stay pumped up.

Cyl 4 valve wasn't even touching the seat anymore

Cyl 3 and 4 were the worst. The installed height of the spring was nearly .030" taller than the tallest on the "new" head

Old:

"New":

Snagged a fresh head from member to throw on, but it needed a little surgery. The timing belt tensioner bolt holes were missing quite a few threads.

Safe to say the timing belt was due.

Nothing seals like fresh gaskets and a half can of copper spray held together with 330k exhaust manifold bolts.

Original fan was living on borrowed time.

So once again...went back to the spare parts shelf

Got it back together without much fuss...but first startup was a little scary. Would only run with my foot half to the floor. Adjusted the throttle stop as temporary fix and took it around the block. Got it into closed loop and to throw a code for low voltage to the MAF.
After some snooping around I found a few wires at the ECU in less than desirable condition. Spent 5min soldering corroded garbage wires together and it ran like a top after. (I'll swap the whole harness someday)

Also... SKP water outlets are garbage. Sensor bung was welded on so crooked that the sensor would hit the the coil bracket...so I ended up using the crusty one off of my other 200k+ spare motor lol

 

[PlumCrazy]

Made some progress on a school night.

7.5 is out

4" Explorer lift leaves are in

Unfortunately the shafts are in worse shape than the ones in the 8.8…so I'll have to hunt down a shaft for final assembly.

Hopefully I can get the axle under and tires on this evening to see if its going to be too tall or not. If its dumb tall, then I guess I flip the rear hangers

Before starting I did measure from hub center to wheel arch on all four corners

Also....if anyone has a half decent short bed laying around close to central Ohio....I could use one. This one is pretty roached. I don't mind beat up, just prefer it not be rotted.

 

[PlumCrazy]

Bolted up the 8.8 and threw the wheels on.... I think it will settle a bit, but even if I doesn't I'm okay with it. I'm going to take it around the block a few times to settle it in a bit before starting the front and setting that ride height.

The shocks off of the STX truck I parted out should fit perfect.

 

[PlumCrazy]

Finished the rear axle this morning.


Bolted up the backing plates and put some lightly used shoes and drums on

The shoes and hardware are for an older truck, but only real difference is how the adjusters are setup.

Took it for test drive with the 31s and the 2wd transmission. Speedometer was spot on and it felt like the same 87.25hp as it did with the 26" tires. It ran smooth a silk at 70mph

Had some free time this evening so I was also able to get the 4x4 transmission and t case swapped in. Still need to extend the VSS wires and cut the floor for the t case shifter

Before I stabbed the new transmission in I tapped one of the shift rail plug holes to 3/8 npt and put a barb in. I'll run a breather hose up the firewall from here and the t case similar to how I did my 88 after installing a Hurst.

 

[PlumCrazy]

Forgot to make a template for the T-case shifter before I put the trans in the truck last night, so I had to scale the pallet rack wall and make one from my scenic overlook.

FYI a 4mm sock and a press make a great 6mm hole punch

Close enough

Great success!

Side note....can these shifters actually be disassembled so the lever can be removed from the shifter gate/guide plate? I put a solid 60 seconds into trying separate it before giving up.
The 80s shifter I used in my other truck unthreaded, but I don't think it had the rubber vibration dampener style lever.

 

[PlumCrazy]

Progress!!

Got the truck back on the lift last night after getting some buddy's cars buttoned up.

TIB, buckets, and crossmember removed

I honestly was not surprised to find this...

Driver bucket started falling apart when I was knocking rivets off.

Slid the D30 under for the first time.

Going to have to trim up the engine crossmember a bit where the I-beam pivot used to attach.

Mocked up the leaves as well before calling it a day.

Next step I'm going to clamp some mock up crossmembers in place so I can let the weight of the truck sit on the springs, then I can better locate the rear spring mounts and start building brackets.

 

[PlumCrazy]

Got back into the shop for the first time in almost two weeks...brother got married, drug home a parts car for a buddy, and spent a lot hours at the vet trying to figure out what's wrong with our pup.

Took a few measurements and laid out the cross member.

After a little slicing and dicing.

And a little more

Snug as a bug in a rug

Drilled a few holes to mount up some tow hooks.

Tacked some flimsy shackle mounts up while I wait for my RuffStuff order so that I could put some weight in the springs and see it with wheels on it.

Pretty happy with how it sits. When I build rear mounts it will bring the nose up just little more. 31s look huge in this truck lol

Ill need to trim more off of the engine crossmember to clear at full bump, but I trimmed enough to clear at ride height for now.

Once my Ruff Stuff order shows up I can built legit mounts and burn in the crossmember for good. After that its just shock mounts/patch up the frame, run brake lines, figure out a draglink and see what I need to do for a front driveshaft. Ill probably order a cable actuator for the CAD too.

 

[Uncle Gump]

Really cool project...

Tell us your doggy is gonna be OK?

 

[PlumCrazy]

Really cool project...

Tell us your doggy is gonna be OK?

Unfortunately the prognosis isn't good. After many scans and scopes the conclusion is that he likely has some sort of untreatable GI cancer. At 11 years old I didn't opt for exploratory surgery that would likely just have him living his final days in a cone around his neck and with a belly full of stitches. Goal now is to keep him comfy for how ever long we have left together.

I wish I had a better news trust me. Spent a lot of time at OSU veterinary services hoping to come home with my buddy happy and healthy.

 

[Uncle Gump]

So sorry...

Good choice to just keep him comfy and enjoy the time you have left.

 

[PlumCrazy]

I think I have a drag link figured out with all common parts store bits...but as usual...I am waiting for parts to show up.

So in the meantime I hacked more crossmember off

Welded a tab on a normal shifter arm to mount up an Fx4 lever

Routed a 1/4 hardline up to the bellhousing area, then Ill run 1/4" hose up the firewall to breather of some sort. (just ignore the floor pan situation....I have a rust free cab for this truck whenever this one becomes unusable)

Whipped up a quick breather for the t-case too out of a Toyota diff breather and a spark plug boot.

Made a very temporary drag link to get the truck off the lift and get some other projects moving along while I wait on parts.

First 100' test drive went ok.lol No brakes and rear spring eyes resting against 2x4 chunks wedged between scrap metal bolted to the frame. Feels weird getting in and out of it being so tall.

Added a handbrake and dual rear calipers to the drift limo

Side note.....the bonfire will be pretty large this year. Still a few more loads to add to it.

And the rain finally stopped long enough to mow.

 

[ryan]

Any way you could ream the knuckle and flip the drag link? That angle is rough

 

[PlumCrazy]

The angle will be a little better with the drop pitman.

 

[PlumCrazy]

I may also look into WJ knuckles or the Teraflex pass side knuckle eventually to move the drag link up a bit.