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PLEASE HELP!


ogretheeternal

Member
U.S. Military - Veteran
Joined
Apr 17, 2025
Messages
16
City
Rural
State - Country
AZ - USA
Vehicle Year
1995
Vehicle
Ford Ranger
Drive
2WD
Engine
2.3 (4 Cylinder)
Transmission
Manual
Total Lift
factory - 30 years of abuse
Total Drop
none. but it dropped four inches with uniform size tires
Tire Size
205 65 15
My credo
too jaded and cynical to display here.
I bought a 95 Ranger from a tow facility last week, emergency transportation situation. its a 95, 5 spd, 4 cylinder. Runs pretty decent, but drips a little oil. Not a main concern at this point.
I am wondering about the instrument cluster. The odometer quit just as it was turning to 338,000 miles, so mileage is completely unknown. Could be nearing 400K. The ignition cylinder is pulled and complete junk. To start it, I need to use the lever on what I assume is a relay (white box hanging below the steering column). The ONLY thing that works on the instrument cluster is the ABS error light. Fuel gauge is stuck at about 3/8 tank, voltmeter, coolant temp and oil pressure gauges all are stuck somewhere near midrange but Every once in a while, a couple of them will bottom out at the lowest point, but always return to midpoint when the vehicle is shut off. Speedometer registers only from 15-35 mph. The odometer doesn't move. The trim panel beneath the dash is long gone, and I cannot be sure what else is missing or torn out. That's far from the only problem, but as far as the interior stuff goes, I kind of think that is possibly the most pressing. I can try to post pictures, if that would help.
Could that the ignition mechanism is disrupted have something to do with this?
I talked to the dealer, they won't even discuss it due to its age. I can't afford the diagnostic and evaluation charges other shops want. I don't know where to start. I have a feeling it is something electrical. Or, is there an expert member CLOSE to me (central AZ) who is willing to help? I wouldn't trust this thing to drive more than maybe 30-40 miles in its current condition.

PLEASE HELP!
 
Yes, images would help.

Lots going on. Hard to digest.
And yes, the ignition switch could be/probably is an issue.
I don't know if 95 had PATS. My 94 doesn't so yours prolly doesn't either.
At the very least, you should get an ignition and get that re-wired and go from there.
Have you checked fuses/relays?

Welcome to TRS.
 
IIRC, it's possible to get the ignition switch in-between positions when it's not connected to the lock cylinder...
 
I bought a 95 Ranger from a tow facility last week, emergency transportation situation. its a 95, 5 spd, 4 cylinder. Runs pretty decent, but drips a little oil. Not a main concern at this point.
I am wondering about the instrument cluster. The odometer quit just as it was turning to 338,000 miles, so mileage is completely unknown. Could be nearing 400K. The ignition cylinder is pulled and complete junk. To start it, I need to use the lever on what I assume is a relay (white box hanging below the steering column). The ONLY thing that works on the instrument cluster is the ABS error light. Fuel gauge is stuck at about 3/8 tank, voltmeter, coolant temp and oil pressure gauges all are stuck somewhere near midrange but Every once in a while, a couple of them will bottom out at the lowest point, but always return to midpoint when the vehicle is shut off. Speedometer registers only from 15-35 mph. The odometer doesn't move. The trim panel beneath the dash is long gone, and I cannot be sure what else is missing or torn out. That's far from the only problem, but as far as the interior stuff goes, I kind of think that is possibly the most pressing. I can try to post pictures, if that would help.
Could that the ignition mechanism is disrupted have something to do with this?
I talked to the dealer, they won't even discuss it due to its age. I can't afford the diagnostic and evaluation charges other shops want. I don't know where to start. I have a feeling it is something electrical. Or, is there an expert member CLOSE to me (central AZ) who is willing to help? I wouldn't trust this thing to drive more than maybe 30-40 miles in its current condition.

PLEASE HELP!
 

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This is what I'm dealing with. As you can see, the problem isn't something stuck. Most of it is non-existent. I have no way to know what isn't there without an exploded diagram of the complete column (and more) assembly.
 
Yes, images would help.

Lots going on. Hard to digest.
And yes, the ignition switch could be/probably is an issue.
I don't know if 95 had PATS. My 94 doesn't so yours prolly doesn't either.
At the very least, you should get an ignition and get that re-wired and go from there.
Have you checked fuses/relays?

Welcome to TRS.
What is PATS
 
Passive Anti-Theft System
Very simply: Keys have a doo-hickey in them that has a code. If the code doesn't match-up, vehicle no start. (Note the use of the technical term "Doo-hickey).

You can get a generic ignition cylinder for your Ranger. The wiring guys here can try to help you figure out what goes where -- as long as the stock wiring isn't completely fubar from the previous owner.

Just curious about the history though: Was this a stolen/recovered vehicle or a repo? That would maybe esplain why the ignition cylinder was yanked.

Anyway, this will take some time I am sure. Curious as to your level of comfort working on stuff?

Oh, and thank you for your service BTW
 
In your pictures, the white box is the electrical part of the ignition switch.

Best case scenario, if you repair the ignition key cylinder that got pulled out (that is the mechanical part of the ignition switch), if the linkage rod is still good, and the electrical switch is still good, you can just put everything back together.
 
I thank you for the input this far. I'll be asking more as time goes on. It sounds like i need to make a trip to the local junkyards. That being said is the linkage rid and the cylinder the only parts I will need? I have no clue what else is missing, other than the knee plate and trim. Do you happen to know of an exploded parts diagram for everything that is supposed to be there?

Also wondering about my idea of replacing the hood latch with hold down pins. Safe option, or is that just used for additional or backup security and aesthetics? itTakes almost 45 minutes to open and close the hood because I have to remove and reinstall the mount screws. I don't have little hands or a lot of dexterity...
The latch is locked onto the hood and I can't get it to trip at all.
 
I would not install hood pins myself. Go to the boneyard and get the complete cable assembly and usually new hood latches are not very expensive. Once you find a truck in your generation in the boneyard, you will start seeing all the parts you are needing. Get everything back to factory. From your picture, the key ignition looks to be ok and you can just get a new key set and get it working fairly quickly. Once you get those thing sorted out and your igniton box, hanging down and in the correct place, some of your electrical issues might go away.
 
FYI your generation is 1993 - 1997. In that date range there may have been minor exterior changes, but the internal parts and mechanicals will, for the majority of parts, be the same.

Ranger Generations
 
Passive Anti-Theft System
Very simply: Keys have a doo-hickey in them that has a code. If the code doesn't match-up, vehicle no start. (Note the use of the technical term "Doo-hickey).

You can get a generic ignition cylinder for your Ranger. The wiring guys here can try to help you figure out what goes where -- as long as the stock wiring isn't completely fubar from the previous owner.

Just curious about the history though: Was this a stolen/recovered vehicle or a repo? That would maybe esplain why the ignition cylinder was yanked.

Anyway, this will take some time I am sure. Curious as to your level of comfort working on stuff?

Oh, and thank you for your service BTW


Thx.. I highly doubt it had that. If it did, it probably would have been a sensor in the cylinder. As for the rest, I need to find an exhaustive parts diagram for that whole area, to tell what all is actually missing.

Regarding history, I bought it out of a tow yard, townaster said he got it on an auction. Judging from some of the things found in the vehicle, I'm going to assume it was disabled and abandoned after being used in some nefarious activities. I wouldn't think we want to know more. LOL
 
1995 had a major redesign of the dash; I'm not sure what, if anything, is compatible as far as the steering column and dash from the 89-94 design to the new design starting with the '95.

The big change for '95 was the addition of a driver side airbag, which yours looks to have based on the yellow-sleeved wiring harness running up the column.

I've never had one newer than the '94 models, but I've seen comment that the '95's have certain peculiarities to themselves.

Your best bet may be to focus on getting '95 model parts for it, where needed, with '96 being second. I don't have much faith that '93-94 steering column parts will be compatible with a '95.

Good Luck!
 
1995 had a major redesign of the dash; I'm not sure what, if anything, is compatible as far as the steering column and dash from the 89-94 design to the new design starting with the '95.

Your best bet may be to focus on getting '95 model parts for it, where needed, with '96 being second. I don't have much faith that '93-94 steering column parts will be compatible with a '95.
Good Luck!

Good info R> I didn't know that. I noticed the yellow covered wiring though.
 

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