please help with carb prob

[rangerjay]

I just bought an 85 ranger 4x4 with only 70,000 original miles been sitting since 98 runs ok but seems like it was lackin some power pulled air cleaner off and realized the choke was not opening I had no power to hot wire for choke ran another source to it so it would open now if I try and accelerate it back fires thru carb seems to have a miss what could this be is it getting to much air now? now that choke is open . do you think it could be mixture screws they are backed out about 2 1/4 turns

 

[litleblue]

Is the EEC IV equipment still installed? If it is pull the codes that should tell where to start looking. Also if the EEC VI system isn't complete and you live in an aera of the nation that will allow you to make modifications to the engine manigment system, I would look seriously at converting the vehicle to a Duraspark/non feedback carb.

 

[Boggin]

your timing is probably off

 

[martin]

the accelerater pump is either not working or out of adjustment. The vacuum line to the power valve (front of carb) is either cracked or broken.

 

[kimcrwbr1]

It has been sitting pull all the connectors apart spray with elect cleaner and put some dielectric grease on them when you put them together also check the spout wire good that is the one wire connector coming off the dizzy wire connector just unplug it and see if it has the same symptoms. That is the wire you disconnect if your going to check the timing make sure it is at 10 dbtdc

 

[enginepaul]

1) Not too muh air
2) Mixture screws are idle only
3) check timing first along with vac hoses

 

[kimcrwbr1]

get the engine running then unplug the idle control motor on the front bottom of the carb 3-4 wire connector. Turn you air fuel needles out for the highest rpm or vacuum pressure if you have a guage. do them both a few times then check that they are within 1/2 turn between them mine were out 3 1/2 to 4 turns out then plug the idle motor back in it should idle down to normal and run smooth. Actually the idle air jets also work at higher rpm and supplement the high speed jets. The less you push on the skinny pedal the better the gas mileage. Have you put it on a timing light 10 dbtdc with the spout out and you should have about 37 dbtdc at around 3500 rpm with everything connected remeber to put the air filter on and the sensor plugged in when you start it.

 

[rangerjay]

ok I really appreciate everyones input but nothing so far has worked I spent this weekend rebuilding carb I've set timing did a full tuneup well plugs cap wires and rotor the truck runs great as far as idling it starts right up no prob its just if I try and snap the throttle to fast it sputters out I guess i'm just gonna drive her and hope I never have to hit the gas super fast Thanks eveybody

 

[rangerjay]

ok i'd also like to add that it sputters if I try and goose it even with choke on I thought it was only doing it with it open also when adjusting idle mixture screws it doesnt seem to be making a difference no matter how i adjust

 

[kimcrwbr1]

Have you checked the egr valve disconnect the vacuum to it and feel it if it always has vacuum first. If it does your vacuum lines are hooked up wrong or it has issues. If there is no vacuum to it take the vacuum that goes to the air cleaner and plug it on the egr or use a vacuum pump and give it vacuum the engine should stall with the egr wide open. Also if you can get a vacuum guage it will tell you if it is in the intake system. If it is just leaking it could mess with your air fuel adjustment also. Sometimes just cleaning the egr will work but get a new gasket before you pull it off just in case it is good never use the old gasket. Soak it in a pan with carb cleaner just below the seal for the shaft. It definately sounds like a vacuum leak somewhere. A compression test will tell you how the rings and valves are and the vacuum test does alot of things but it give you a better idea on the overall health of the engine. You need 17-21 hg in vacuum pressure for a healthy engine at an idle and 20-21 hg at 3500 rpm.

 

[kimcrwbr1]

Did you surface the base of the carb pull the throttle position sensor of and glue a sheet of 180 grit sandpaper to a flat piece of plywood. Carefully sand it till it has the same scratches all over but dont gouge it. I had a problem with mine the ears get bent down a little it dont take much and even a new gasket didnt make it seal. With a new gasket take it down slow and even nice a snug dont over tighten.

 

[rangerjay]

ok thanks for everybodys help it was greatly appreciated but I think I finally got it figured out seemed to be a major vac leak carb rebuild kit only came with very thin gasket that had the cut out to fit tps the thick spacer to carb gasket was nt cut out for that so I just traced the thin gasket on the thick and cut it out put that in put carb back on and now shes runnin great