Please help a desperate newb!!!!

[BlackBII]

The clutch will work fine, as long as the input shaft spline count is the same. (Should be)

Well, you'll need a floor plate and a boot from a truck/explorer that came with a M5OD.

 

[CopyKat]

Last I remember if it's the single boot then it was the same for the FM146 and M5OD.The t-case lever was moved around between the 2 however. Since he's 2wd he just needs the one boot that he already has.

 

[Ozwynn]

isn't there also a starter mod he should be told about? if you can, get the rear axle from the explorer also

 

[BlackBII]

Oh yeah, this is a 2wd. Duh!

The boot will be the same, it's just further forward, so you'll need the new floorplate, or else the shifter hole on the tranny will be partway covered by the old floorplate.

 

[macd7919]

Ok guys so I bit the bullet and..... (insert drumroll here).... I purchased a:

M5OD

I'm also thinking I'm going to go with the 4.0L clutch "mod".

So far I have priced out all the items listed in the tech library to do it, only part I'm not finding is the block plate for a 4.0L ford manual, anyone know where I could find one?

Also, before I order all the 4.0 clutch stuff....is it worth doing over using the 2.9L clutch? Anyone have experience with the before and after difference?

I want to do a new slave cylinder also, which should I be using, Explorer 4.0L or Bronco ii 2.9L?

 

[4x4junkie]

Also, before I order all the 4.0 clutch stuff....is it worth doing over using the 2.9L clutch? Anyone have experience with the before and after difference?

I want to do a new slave cylinder also, which should I be using, Explorer 4.0L or Bronco ii 2.9L?

I did the 4.0L clutch on mine. It is SSSSSOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO worth it!!!!!!!!

The difference in pedal feel alone makes it worth it (forget that it has more holding power). It's not all grippy & grabby like the little stock size clutch, you can actually feather it if you need to without stalling the engine out at times.

All the parts should be for a 4.0L except for the slave cyl, which should be for your model year (if you also replace your master cyl with a later one, then you would use a later (same year as MC) slave).

 

[macd7919]

Sweet sounds good, I'm just waiting to hear back from the guy I purchased it from on the extra parts to do the clutch etc... I priced out all new stuff on eBay as well so I guess I'll see if it's worth the diff in price to go with new stuff. Thanks for all your help guys!

P.s- Does anyone know a good place to get the stuff to do the 4wd swap? (Radius arms etc..) I can't afford it right now but I checked my local yards for stuff just to get prices but no one has any of the stuff I need.

 

[adsm08]

FM145, 146 and M5 all share a spline pattern on the input shaft, and all work with the same clutches. I took my 87 from an FM145 (which I believe shares a shifter position with the 146) to an M5 and the shifter sits pretty far forward in the hole. Once you take you boot out there will be 4 8mm bolts holding the piece the boot screws to onto the floor pan. That will need to be replaced wit one from an M5 vehicle. I'm running with a hole in the floor until I can get to the yard to find one. You can use your clutch, or if you want to put a few extra dollars in, you can widen the hole on your blocking plate, get a 4.0 starter, clutch and flywheel and put those on. The only catch that I've noticed with the M5 on my truck is that, with the different gearing, it kinda drives like a 4-banger around town. Not a big issue for me given the 7 MPG gain I got on the highway. I beat my girls 2001 2.2L 2wd s-10 for mileage on the trip back carrying a bunch of extra (and heavy) crap in my bed, she was unloaded except for some laundry and an empty wooden cable spool.

 

[adsm08]

I did the 4.0L clutch on mine. It is SSSSSOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO worth it!!!!!!!!

The difference in pedal feel alone makes it worth it (forget that it has more holding power). It's not all grippy & grabby like the little stock size clutch, you can actually feather it if you need to without stalling the engine out at times.

All the parts should be for a 4.0L except for the slave cyl, which should be for your model year (if you also replace your master cyl with a later one, then you would use a later (same year as MC) slave).

Actually, I used the later model slave when I did my swap. The master cylinders themselves are actually the same, the difference is the line going to the slave, which is removable. What you do is remove the master from the vehicle, punch out the roll pin that holds the lower line in place, and pull. make sure the seal on the end comes out because if you try to double seal the line won't fit. Once you put it back in, replace the pin, and you are good to go. I would go with the later model just because they have the fancy quick connect fittings that don't generally need bleeding just because they are disconnected.

 

[macd7919]

Thanks for the info! Everything is being noted for when I do my swap!

Does anyone have any leads on where I could find:

1. The floor trim assembly for an M50d

2. The correct block plate for a 4.0L manual (for the 4L clutch mod)

3. Radius arms and front driveshaft for 4wd.

 

[adsm08]

The floor trim assy should be best available at a salvage yard. Just tell the guy you are looking for a few random things, go out, find one from gen 1 explorer, and grab it. He'll probably have no idea what it is and give it to you cheap.

The block plate could probably be found on a vehicle that has the body off or the trans/engine out. Its not a critical part for this swap. The difference between the 2.9 and 4.0 plates is the size of the starter hole. You can take a die grinder and open it up a bit so that the 4.0 starter fits. I got mine from a guy parting an explorer on craigslist

My front driveshaft came from the 91 explorer that was the donor for the rest of my parts. It's from the 102" wheelbase version and fits nicely, actually has to be stretched out a bit to reach but still has more flex than it will ever need.

As for your radius arms, it depends on how much work you want to do vs what you are willing to pay. I think you can get them from LMC truck for $75 a piece. You can probably get them cheaper from a u-pull but it will be a lot more work. Again, you might want to look for someone parting a truck or selling one thats blown or wrecked in the back. A good parts donor sometimes pays for itself in what it saves you buying everything piece-meal.

 

[macd7919]

My front driveshaft came from the 91 explorer that was the donor for the rest of my parts. It's from the 102" wheelbase version and fits nicely, actually has to be stretched out a bit to reach but still has more flex than it will ever need.

As for your radius arms, it depends on how much work you want to do vs what you are willing to pay. I think you can get them from LMC truck for $75 a piece. You can probably get them cheaper from a u-pull but it will be a lot more work. Again, you might want to look for someone parting a truck or selling one thats blown or wrecked in the back. A good parts donor sometimes pays for itself in what it saves you buying everything piece-meal.

I should have been more specific about the radius arms. I was actually looking for the whole assembly to convert my 2wd to 4wd. Basically I would need everything but the transfer case/electronics. Any ideas on where to find that stuff for a decent price?

 

[adsm08]

get a donor. troll craigslist for a cheap clunker you can take stuff off of. that is probably your best bet.

 

[macd7919]

I'm out in a semi remote area so there really isn't too much on CL. Didn't know if there were any good online sites to look at for the front driveshaft/arms/4wd conversion stuff etc... maybe some online junk yards? The yards around here don't have anything, I think the oldest thing they had was a 96 explorer and I don't think that will work will it?

 

[Clem]

Where are you located?
Try this: http://car-part.com/
By all means get a donor, I paid $500 for a very nice 92 Explorer that I striped and installed most everything into my 86 B2. Cost savings alone by using a donor can exceed a $1000. You can also change out the rear axle to the 8.8 from the X by moving the spring perches to the top of the axle, (requires some welding), this is advisable to keep the proper gear ratio between the front and rear axles. (that is a must, you can't mix ratios, i.e. 3.45 will not work with anything other than 3.45).
Look in the tech library here: http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/index.php, and try this site: http://www.broncoii-ranger.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=28&t=3192, for some more details about what you are talking about doing, it has been done many times before.
Sorry Joel.

Ray