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Pivot Brackets... HELP!!!


Buckeye Ranger

Well-Known Member
Joined
Nov 18, 2007
Messages
116
City
Fairfield, Ohio
Vehicle Year
1995
Transmission
Manual
Ok. So I have some axle pivot brackets come'n in. What I need to know is these brackets are not supplied with bolts so what kind of bolts should I buy and could I get these from like a home depot?

Also. On the installation. Am I going to have to drop the axle and take out the coils to do this as well? Any advise would be great as this will be my first time tackel'n this kind of project.
 
for the passenger side drop bracket u will need prolly 8 grade 8 or 10 bolts, i beleive 1/2" in variety, u will also want washers for it, for the driver side drop bracket u will use all factory hardware.

i forget what u will need for the radius arm drop brackets.
 
you will need 7/16" x 1-1/2" Grade 8 bolts, 2 Grade 8 washers, 2 Grade 8 lock washers, and 2 Grade 8 nuts. You will need a good angle grinder with a metal wheel to get the passenger side bracket rivits out. Grind the head off and then punch them out with a good punch.
 
for the passenger side drop bracket u will need prolly 8 grade 8 or 10 bolts, i beleive 1/2" in variety, u will also want washers for it, for the driver side drop bracket u will use all factory hardware.

i forget what u will need for the radius arm drop brackets.
There is no such thing as Grade 10 bolts; Grade 8 is the strongest made.
 
ur wrong buddy, grade 10 look like black anoodized bolts
 
ur wrong buddy, grade 10 look like black anoodized bolts

Surface coating has absolutely nothing to do with strength identification when it comes to bolts. There are many different types and grades of bolts, none of which are called "Grade 10". There's Grade 10.9, which is the ISO equivalent to SAE Grade 8. Using a bolt based on its "color" is careless construction that could end badly.
 
Ok. So am I gonna need to take out the coils to do this? Also I can still use the rad. arms that are on the truck correct? All I did was put on leveling coils on my 95 4x4. But since its a 4cyl. and not very heavy it lifted it a little more so that camber could not just be done to fix the camber issue so I had to get drop brackets. So the stock Rad. arms should be fine in this case correct?
 
its not a surface coating, thats the color of the metal all the way through, theres a reason hardware is color coded u are aware right, same reason there are marks on the head to tell u what kind of bolt it is.

grade 10 bolts are tempered bolts, they are sold for commercial applicatioons mostly, however i know for certainty that advance auto does carry them

grade 5 and lower new hardware is always silver in color, grade 8 is always gold, grade 10 is always black
 
Ok. So am I gonna need to take out the coils to do this? Also I can still use the rad. arms that are on the truck correct? All I did was put on leveling coils on my 95 4x4. But since its a 4cyl. and not very heavy it lifted it a little more so that camber could not just be done to fix the camber issue so I had to get drop brackets. So the stock Rad. arms should be fine in this case correct?

you will need to remove your coils and shocks ideally to install the drop bracets, however, unless u got the factory highrider style brackets a simple leveling coil is not going to provide enough lift to achieve proper alingment with 4" drop brackets.

but, if there the high rider brackets u can get away with not dropping you crossmember with teh radisu arm mounts

and lots of time for the passenger side drop bracket u will not be able to punch them out, from the bracket its self, i was able to punch them from the crossmember, but on the bracket i had to drill out the rivets (if your using a RC style drop bracket) if it is the high rider brackets then disregard
 
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its not a surface coating, thats the color of the metal all the way through, theres a reason hardware is color coded u are aware right, same reason there are marks on the head to tell u what kind of bolt it is.

grade 10 bolts are tempered bolts, they are sold for commercial applicatioons mostly, however i know for certainty that advance auto does carry them

grade 5 and lower new hardware is always silver in color, grade 8 is always gold, grade 10 is always black


You are wrong. The color of the bolt does not specify the grade. I have seen many grade 8 bolts that are black, for example the grade 8 bolts I purchased to build my doubler were black.

Grade 8 is the highest grade SAE bolt there is. I challenge you to find me an SAE grade 10 bolt.
 
hmmm, then what would they be (the bolts ive been using), they were standard thread but stronger in sheer force then that of a grade 8 bolt
 
the brackets I am getting is from a member on here. They are 2.5" brackets. with this I should still be good correct?
 
u should be good togo man
 
Too much misinformation in this thread :no2:

Bolt color is infact irrelevant to grade or strength. Just because the majority of Gr 8 bolts sold are gold zinc coated, and Gr 5 ones plain colored, does not mean they ALL are (and NO, the metal is NOT the same color inside, try grinding on a bolt head with a grinder, it's all the same color steel in there, even the 'black' ones).

Grade 8 is the HIGHEST standard SAE grade, period. While some manufacturers do make bolts with ratings that exceed Grade 8 standards, there are no SAE standards above that set forth for them, so calling them "Grade 9" or "Grade 10", etc. is technically not correct.

Grades like 8.8, 10.9 and 12.9 are standard grades for METRIC fasteners. These obviously would not apply to SAE fasteners (and vice-versa).
ISO 10.9 is roughly an equivalent to SAE Gr 8


As for the brackets, I'd use ½" - 20 x 1.5" Gr 8 bolts on the pivots. For things like radius arm brackets, 7/16" is fine.

Home Depot recently began selling Gr 8 stuff again (at least the one near me did), so you should be able to get them there, yes (make sure you get Gr 8 nuts & hardened washers also).
 
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