Picked up this 1990 STX this weekend

[Strelok]

I've been trying to get back in the Ranger game for a while. I live in the California Bay area and everything there is expensive or beat to hell work trucks. Very few 4x4's surprisingly.

Randomly check the local Craigslist of a buddy of mine up by Seattle, found this gem. He went and checked it out for me, said it was in great shape, so I bought it sight unseen for $3250. Flew up on Saturday, drove it home 12 hours on Sunday. The 2.9 really is a gutless wonder, had to downshift into 4th going uphill on the highway with the truck unloaded just like a 4cyl Ranger, but all I'm going to use it for is moving motorcycles around and camping so whatever.

Everything works, cruise control, AC, push button 4x4, you name it. Engine and trans was rebuilt 60k ago by a race shop. I'm going to try and aesthetically refurbish the exterior a bit, and should the engine ever go I'll swap a 4.0, but other than that I'm planning on just maintaining this truck as long as I can.

Anyone know the best looking/most period correct roll bar for these?
I'm assuming sourcing an OEM STX optional roll bar is a waste of time because they're all basically identical right? I just wanna mount some KC Daylighter lights to it.
Should I go with an 8ball shift knob or a Hurst pistol grip? I like both, but I wasn't around in the 80's to know which one was cooler back then

 

[BlackBII]

Awesome truck! Looks like it's in really good shape. Shame the stripes are missing.

A 4.0 swap on this truck would simple and mostly plug and play, depending on the donor.

Go Rhino makes bed bars that mimic the factory ones. I am going to be adding some to my truck after I paint it, along with some rectangle lights.

http://www.gorhino.com

 

[Jim Oaks]

Great looking Ranger. I'm surprised it's so nice coming from a state that gets a lot of snow and rain. It would look cool with the bed bars, but they're $500 new. CLICK HERE

 

[BlackBII]

The bed bars are definitely not cheap when new.

I have seen them in the local classifieds for $1-200 though.

A better option would be to make some from DOM and mount it to the frame, making it functional. The issue is that in order to look correct, it needs to be made from 3" diameter tubing, which isn't that practical when it comes to DOM.

 

[1991fordranger1]

Very jealous of you wish I had one that looked that nice [emoji106][emoji108]

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[rangerenthiusiast]

G@ddamn, you’re lucky. I picked up a ’92 earlier this year for $1500 and almost EVERYTHING is wrong with it. Currently have to cut out most of the floor pan (can’t find a replacement for a full or even half pan anywhere) and weld some plate steel onto the tops and bottoms of all the body mounts before I can start replacing the bushings. All tires are dry-rotted, had to replace all the injectors, u-joints clunk, rear seal leaks, power steering pump whines like a bitch, radio’s blown, windshield leaks like a sieve... the list just goes on and on.

I know you didn’t post to listen to my bitching or fish for pats on the back. But man, I can’t believe how CLEAN that thing is! I’d have snapped her up in a heartbeat, then kissed the owner’s feet for good measure. I hope that you’re a good person and deserved such a sweet little gem to come into your life. Seeing karma work that way for once would be great. CONGRATS!!!

PS - Mind if I ask a couple of questions? I like the way those rims look with the color scheme. Do you know the brand & style? American Racing, maybe? Also, what size tires are on her? Looks like 235/75R15s, perhaps?

 

[Strelok]

Great looking Ranger. I'm surprised it's so nice coming from a state that gets a lot of snow and rain. It would look cool with the bed bars, but they're $500 new. CLICK HERE

I asked the guy who inspected it for me for lots of pics of the underside and he laughed at me. Apparently they don't salt and that makes all the difference.

The bed bars are definitely not cheap when new.

I have seen them in the local classifieds for $1-200 though.

A better option would be to make some from DOM and mount it to the frame, making it functional. The issue is that in order to look correct, it needs to be made from 3" diameter tubing, which isn't that practical when it comes to DOM.

The only problem with the bar, especially a functional one, is that the primary use of this truck is going to be moving motorcycles, often in pairs

 

[Jim Oaks]

I asked the guy who inspected it for me for lots of pics of the underside and he laughed at me. Apparently they don't salt and that makes all the difference.



The only problem with the bar, especially a functional one, is that the primary use of this truck is going to be moving motorcycles, often in pairs

Seriously? They don't salt in Washington?

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[Strelok]

Seriously? They don't salt in Washington?

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My buddy up there said they started using some synthetic hydro-cloro-something or other a few years ago, but before that no.

 

[Jim Oaks]

Having to shift down to fourth going up a hill isn't a big deal. Automatics do it.

What is the axle gear ratio in it?

Swapping to a 4.0L will give you an additional 20 hp and 50 ft-lbs.

 

[Strelok]

Having to shift down to fourth going up a hill isn't a big deal. Automatics do it.

What is the axle gear ratio in it?

Swapping to a 4.0L will give you an additional 20 hp and 50 ft-lbs.

I have no idea. It's at about like 2600rpm at a bit over 70mph in 5th.

 

[BlackBII]

Look here to find out what gearing you have.

LINK

If you want to eventually run 33" tires, you'll want to regear the axles to 4.56

 

[Shran]

I didn't see it mentioned but you definitely have some sort of a lift - the radius arm crossmember has drop brackets installed. We could tell you more about it if you post some more pictures of the front axle pivot brackets (where the beams are connected to the frame under the engine.) Kinda reminds me of the Rough Country lift I have on one of my parts trucks.

Looks like it's in pretty good shape. Tires might be a little larger than the stock 235-75-15's so that could explain part of your gutless turd complaint. I had a Bronco II years ago that had 33's with a 2.9, auto and 4.10 gears - yeah, total turd.

 

[Strelok]

Look here to find out what gearing you have.

LINK

If you want to eventually run 33" tires, you'll want to regear the axles to 4.56

Pretty sure I have 3.73 gear, read the tag last night but it was pretty corroded and hard to see under the truck.

I didn't see it mentioned but you definitely have some sort of a lift - the radius arm crossmember has drop brackets installed. We could tell you more about it if you post some more pictures of the front axle pivot brackets (where the beams are connected to the frame under the engine.) Kinda reminds me of the Rough Country lift I have on one of my parts trucks.

Looks like it's in pretty good shape. Tires might be a little larger than the stock 235-75-15's so that could explain part of your gutless turd complaint. I had a Bronco II years ago that had 33's with a 2.9, auto and 4.10 gears - yeah, total turd.

I posted in the suspension forum: http://www.therangerstation.com/forums/showthread.php?t=177087

 

[Assassynation]

I'm pretty sure you guys have the wrong roll bar. I have a FORD stamped roll bar and im pretty sure its a smittybuilt. Most stock pics on google also have the smittybuilt.