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Performance issues.


So, tps voltage check (@RonD).

Which code is 41?
41- (R) System lean
(M) System was lean for 15 seconds or more (no HO2S switching)

Depends on if it was memory code or not. Im going to guess it was an "r" code and its still lean. Indicitive of a vaccum leak still somewhere.
 
+1 ^^^

2 digit Ford codes here: https://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/2digitcodes.shtml


TPS is a 5 volt sensor, you can use a sewing needle to pierce wires to test voltages while sensors are hooked up
Key on, the 5v comes from computer
Test upper wire(Grey/red), should be 5v, 4.8-5.1
Test center wire, .69-.99v, under 1volt

Open throttle manually while testing center wire, voltage should ramp up, NO jumps or drops, and get to at least 4.5v when Wide Open Throttle(WOT) is reached


FYI on newer OBD2 vehicles, TPS sensor will show 17% to 19% when throttle is closed, why?
Shouldn't it be 0%, no, its a 5volt range, 0v to 5v, when throttle is closed TPS is just under 1volt, so just under 20%
And WOT won't be 100%, maybe 90%
 
41- (R) System lean
(M) System was lean for 15 seconds or more (no HO2S switching)

Depends on if it was memory code or not. Im going to guess it was an "r" code and its still lean. Indicitive of a vaccum leak still somewhere.
It was both a memory code and a running code. I do believe I found the vacuum leak tho. I put it in a pic on my last comment to you. It was coming from what I think is the vacuum for the blend door??

That code (41) when I looked it up showed a mechanical lean. I haven't changed my fuel pressure regulator yet. Think I'll give that a shot next.
 
It was both a memory code and a running code. I do believe I found the vacuum leak tho. I put it in a pic on my last comment to you. It was coming from what I think is the vacuum for the blend door??

That code (41) when I looked it up showed a mechanical lean. I haven't changed my fuel pressure regulator yet. Think I'll give that a shot next.
Try blocking off the vaccum hose thsts leaking.

FPRs will fail rich. You could have injector issues though like i did.
 
Just did the codes and koeo is (first set) 67. (Second set) 41, 54, 63. Koer (first set) 1. (Second set) 41, 77
Code 54 is a error with the air charge temp sensor. It thinks the incoming air is very cold. The guy in the book says first thing to do is unplug the connector to this sensor, and then short the signal wire to the ground wire in the plug with a jumper. Then run the codes again, you should get a code 64. Code 54 is a voltage high error, code 64 is a voltage low error in the air charge temp circuit. If you get the code 64, that verifies the wiring and the computer are good and there is something wrong with the sensor.
 
Try blocking off the vaccum hose thsts leaking.

FPRs will fail rich. You could have injector issues though like i did.
Just to tail off of this, 30 year old injectors and pcms are getting to the end of their service life. Never hurts to test and r&r them.

@Cees Klumper knows a place to get injectors on the cheap, and its worth taking a look at the electrolytic capacitors on your pcm to see if they're leaking yet.
 
Just to tail off of this, 30 year old injectors and pcms are getting to the end of their service life. Never hurts to test and r&r them.

@Cees Klumper knows a place to get injectors on the cheap, and its worth taking a look at the electrolytic capacitors on your pcm to see if they're leaking yet.

I think the megasquirt solution would be a more long term permanent solution if they stay in business and support their products.

I keep looking at it, but don't have a clear path in my head of what all would be involved. I have looked at a couple of your threads, but haven't stumbled on the software part of it. I know there are a few people who have done the Ford v6's like you have. Is it possible to dump the parameters of someone else's v6 to get it going and then be able to play with it and learn the software at the same time? Something to stick in there so it will run initially.
 
I keep looking at it, but don't have a clear path in my head of what all would be involved. I have looked at a couple of your threads, but haven't stumbled on the software part of it. I know there are a few people who have done the Ford v6's like you have. Is it possible to dump the parameters of someone else's v6 to get it going and then be able to play with it and learn the software at the same time? Something to stick in there so it will run initially.




Uploaded it a year ago haha. According to the counter I have on it, tuning has been downloaded 300+ times. Would be cool to see if anyone out there is actually running it haha.
 
I have seen those tables and charts before. They don't make much sense to me sitting here contemplating how the whole thing would pan out. Do those charts make sense once you download the software and get into it? Does the software ask you set up questions and then map some of it out for you? Or you have to go in there and input a certain amount of info in various places before it will run? I haven't messed with the software part, I do not know how user friendly it is.
 
highly recommend talking to diy auto tune or any licensed bowling and grippo distributor.

Theres one out by Philly on the mega efi forums that sells a 60 pin to microsquirt efi harness.

A microsquirt is several magnitudes of power greater than eeciv and eecv.

🤓
 

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