Parts that you replace just because

[Texas Jack]

Back in July I bought an '03 Ranger 3.0L manual with 140K on the clock. Last month the clutch went out and had to be replaced. The washer pump relay failed, so I replaced that and I'm going to replace the other relays just because I figure they're likely to die as well. That got me what else I ought to replace just because of age? Spark plugs and wires? Radiator hoses? Anything else?

 

[mikkelstuff]

Brakes, shocks, ball joints, plugs, ignition wires, coil pack, cam shaft synchronizer - just because I had to with my 140K '02 Ranger 3.0L.

Actually I didn't have to change out the ball joints but I was upgrading the front brakes to the larger diameter 2004 disks and replaced the ball joints while I had it apart.

 

[rusty ol ranger]

I wouldnt change anything untill it breaks.

A factory part with 140k is likely better then a new part from advancedoreileyzone.

 

[Curious Hound]

A good thorough inspection of everything and replace what’s necessary .

 

[RobbieD]

Focus on regular maintenance, fluid changes at the recommended intervals, and inspecting all over and under for wear, leaks or other trouble signs.

When the clutch was done hopefully the transmission fluid was changed, too, and if yours is the M5OD with the rubber plugs on top, these were replaced or updated.

One thing I would take a closer look at is the entire cooling system. All new hoses if the existing ones look long in the tooth, and a flush if it's needed.

I have to agree, that the parts used on the assembly line are better than most of the parts store replacement parts.

 

[19Walt93]

If the hoses or belts are original or old they should be replaced, it's easier at home than on the side of the road. If the brakes hoses don't look recent I'd replace them and flush out the brake fluid. Changing all the fluids is worth doing and then you'll know how old they are. Look at the power steering fluid and flush it out if it's not red and clean, just pull the return hose, cap the nipple on the pump, and crank(do not start) the engine to pump fluid through the system.

 

[Eddo Rogue]

I wouldnt change anything untill it breaks.

A factory part with 140k is likely better then a new part from advancedoreileyzone.

+1 A lot of the stuff I changed just because it was old, I ended up putting back because the new one was crap, and the old one worked better.

 

[cbxer55]

I wouldnt change anything untill it breaks.

A factory part with 140k is likely better then a new part from advancedoreileyzone.

I replaced all my front end parts with O"Reilly parts. Upper and lower control arms with heavy duty ball joints, inner and outer tie rod ends. My friend and I took lots of measurements prior to starting. The result being when we finished, I never needed to get an alignment. Tire wear has been superb. I did it because the original ball joints were way past gone. I mean, so far gone I wondered why the whole front end didn't fall off the truck one day.

I've replaced the power steering pump on the Ranger twice. First was from AZ and lasted ten years or so. It eventually failed, and what's on it now is from O'Reilly's.

The alternator on my Lightning and Ranger are from NAPA. The Lightning's in 2013, the Ranger in 2018. Both still going strong, although the Ranger's alternator sure is one noisy f*ck.

 

[rusty ol ranger]

I replaced all my front end parts with O"Reilly parts. Upper and lower control arms with heavy duty ball joints, inner and outer tie rod ends. My friend and I took lots of measurements prior to starting. The result being when we finished, I never needed to get an alignment. Tire wear has been superb. I did it because the original ball joints were way past gone. I mean, so far gone I wondered why the whole front end didn't fall off the truck one day.

I've replaced the power steering pump on the Ranger twice. First was from AZ and lasted ten years or so. It eventually failed, and what's on it now is from O'Reilly's.

The alternator on my Lightning and Ranger are from NAPA. The Lightning's in 2013, the Ranger in 2018. Both still going strong, although the Ranger's alternator sure is one noisy f*ck.

I quit going to oreileys. Everytime i bought something it failed in a week.

Autozone has total idiots working the counter and advanced is as expensive as my auto value 2 blocks away.

 

[sumncguy]

I recently bought the 92 basically to do work around the house. I might play in the dirt a little. My philosophy is a little different. Maybe because of my age or maybe because Im tired of paying those huge tax and insurance bills on the Rams Ive owned.

What I do is .. if I go in ..... I will replace everything I have to dig through to get to the issue. If one wants to keep and drive these old biddies .. pay now .. pay later.
The internals of the drivers door will be rebuilt once LMC stuff gets here. Then brakes all the way around.

Im thinking of buying a remanufactured engine put it on a rack and slowly add new parts to end up with a complete engine ready to drop in. Nibbles are alot easier than taking the big bite.

 

[mikkelstuff]

Oh yes. Replace your antifreeze if you haven't or at least check the pH. The 3.0L aluminum timing case cover will be eaten away at the gasket joint if the coolant turns acidic.

 

[pjtoledo]

If the hoses or belts are original or old they should be replaced, it's easier at home than on the side of the road. If the brakes hoses don't look recent I'd replace them and flush out the brake fluid. Changing all the fluids is worth doing and then you'll know how old they are. Look at the power steering fluid and flush it out if it's not red and clean, just pull the return hose, cap the nipple on the pump, and crank(do not start) the engine to pump fluid through the system.

oh it's Ok to start it, IF you have a 2 gallon bucket ready and several quarts of PS fluid opened and ready that you will have to pour in REAL FAST.


I put a greased sandwich under each wheel and turn lock to lock to fully work the system. you'll need an assistant that can act fast.

 

[scotts90ranger]

oh it's Ok to start it, IF you have a 2 gallon bucket ready and several quarts of PS fluid opened and ready that you will have to pour in REAL FAST.


I put a greased sandwich under each wheel and turn lock to lock to fully work the system. you'll need an assistant that can act fast.

White or wheat for the sandwich? moly or lithium? this doesn't sound tasty... Sourdough and lard would probably work, but then you still have the road grime... lol

I don't make it a habit of changing things just because, there's things I "should" do and change but then again I still haven't installed the rear hatch trim on my '00 Explorer in 3 years, I've had the panel clips for 2.5 years, don't rush me...

 

[black_demon69]

IF I have to replace 1bad ball joint I will replace all of them simply I don't want to be going back into it in a month and have to take it apart again.

This method has served me well over the years

 

[97RangerXLT]

My thoughts on replacing everything I touch....

My time has become pretty valuable and is going up in value daily it seems, so if I have to take it off the car/ truck/ appliance or whatever and it is a wear item and does not cost a ton of money, it gets replaced. good example is a few years ago my radiator cracked and I had to replace the radiator. hoses needed to come off anyways, so new hoses. to remove the radiator I had to remove the fan and fan clutch and belt. fan clutch was original to the truck, belt was 10 years old. tensioner was 15 years old. cheap, had to remove them anyways, why put them back on. so new belt, new tensioner and idler. with the radiator out of the truck, the water pump was very easy to access. cheap, and if I were to have to replace it down the road, I would likely need to remove the radiator again. so it got replaced as well.

Same for steering that I did last year. all original steering components. the steering box was damaged in 2015 when my wife decided that it was better to hang my ranger on the guard rail on I 465 than rear end the car in front of her that came to a sudden stop, so I had planned on replacing it at some time. then the rusty original line blew out. there was no way I was going to get those lines off without damaging the pump. the pump was noisy as heck anyways (even more noisy than a ford steering pump normally is) so at the time of hose replacement, I replaced the pump, box, and hoses. all new and don't have to worry about it down the road. at that point I also replaced all of the tie rods and linkages just because I was under there and it only added 100 bucks to my total cost, and the steering is now new from the steering shaft to the wheels.

If I can replace a part really quick and I have to remove it to replace another, I usually will just reuse it, but if I am already into a good afternoon or day's project on something, it all gets replaced if feasible.

AJ