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Oil Question...


NO that is all wrong. The SECOND number is the viscosity when hot. So 5w-30 and 0w-30 are the same viscosity when hot and provide equal protection.

The first number refers to how much the oil thickens when cold. It is NOT a viscosity number. (a 5w-30 is NOT a "5 weight" when cold) Very simply, the higher the number, the more it thickens when cold. So a 0w-30 and 5w-30 are the same thing, except the 0w-30 won't thicken up as much in really cold temps.

exbass94 is right.

Actually, calling 0W 30 a multi-vis is a misnomer, since it has the same viscosity at 0C as it does at operating temp, while a straight 30 wt will have a whole range of viscosities, depending on what temp it is.

If it's cold where you are, or even if it gets below 60 at night, then run the 5W-30 or better yet 0W-30.

Your engine will thank you for it.
 
My uncle sells so I got the family discount which is at cost. I saved $20 total. :headbang:

Very typical of a Multi Level Marketing (pyramid) structure!

Be very careful, only XL is API certified from Scamsoil!


Check this out:

http://www.boss302.com/oil.htm

My favorite is:

"I stay away from Amsoil for reasons that are far too detailed."


Some engines are more prone to sludging than other engines. VW and Audi have these engines, so they developed their own test and specs for oil
sludging. Here are the oils that PASS their tests:

http://pics.tdiclub.com/data/500/vw_tb_17-05-04.pdf

http://dejong947.com/audi/tsb/audi.tb.17-05-01.pdf


Notice there are NO Scamsoil products listed, matter of fact, Scamsoil came out with a TSB about sludging in some engines, and recommended following the auto manufacturer's OCI, instead of the extended OCI BS they claim, to
justify the inflated price of their products!! They also recommend using their XL product, which is their ONLY API certified product!!
Sounds like they have gotten into deep poo-poo claiming their NON-API certified oils can run for 25K miles! Notice with these "sludge prone" vehicles, they are recommending to use their ONLY API certified oil for gasoline engines (XL), and they are saying to stay with the vehicle manufacturer's recommended oil change intervals!!


http://www.smartsynthetics.com/pdf/TSB-engine-sludge-issues.pdf


886034400_22YtG-X2.jpg
 
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I have never seen Motorcraft 5w-30 in 5 quart jugs, only the 5w-20.
The Wal-Marts here have always carried Motorcraft 5w-30 in 1 quart bottles.
I got used oil analysis on my wife's 3.0 Taurus comparing Mobil 1 5w-20 and Motorcraft 5w-20, both run 5000 miles, and found virtually no difference in wear metals.
Although the 3.0 was back-recommended by Ford for 5w-20, I'd still run 5w-30 if that's what the manual and sticker calls for.
.02.
 
I have never seen Motorcraft 5w-30 in 5 quart jugs, only the 5w-20.
The Wal-Marts here have always carried Motorcraft 5w-30 in 1 quart bottles.
I got used oil analysis on my wife's 3.0 Taurus comparing Mobil 1 5w-20 and Motorcraft 5w-20, both run 5000 miles, and found virtually no difference in wear metals.
Although the 3.0 was back-recommended by Ford for 5w-20, I'd still run 5w-30 if that's what the manual and sticker calls for.
.02.

just got back from walmart. no 5-30 5 quart jugs but they had the quarts. $2.77 a quart, not too bad. Then add $3.67 for a motorcraft filter and it comes out to about the same as the oil change specials ive seen lately, but i feel alot better about it
 
Synthetic oils, only oils that are made using the 'PAO' method are truly considered to be synthetic. Castrol Synthetic 'Syntec' is NOT synthetic oil. It is simply a 'Group II base stock' that has been further refined using propane de-waxing and severe hydro-treating to give a better base stock. But is still refined from paraffinic crude, as all conventional 'dino' motor oil is. Although the US FTC allows Castrol to call it 'synthetic', it cannot be labeled as synthetic in Europe. It has a different name over there.

Mobil 1, Sheaffers, and Royal Purple are all good synthetics
.

Already knew the Castrol Syntec was not a synthetic oil. When I open a oil cap and find sludge under neath. And the owner has always ran Syntec. You know then something is wrong. As for Castrols new synthetic oil (Edge), I don't know.

So far, I have been using Royal Purple in the Ranger. No problems, change the oil every 5k miles or once a year.
 
why are you switching and why are you changing it so soon i run mobil 1 in all my trucks including my 4.0 race ranger and i run it a minimum of 10,000 many reports see no measurable breakdown w/full syn oil (except the race truck) the first # is the weight at start up only w/a full syn oil change intervals(IMO)are propaganda of the oil manufacturer Ford recommends 5000 on their standard oil changes so why would you change a full syn at 6000
 
why are you switching and why are you changing it so soon i run mobil 1 in all my trucks including my 4.0 race ranger and i run it a minimum of 10,000 many reports see no measurable breakdown w/full syn oil (except the race truck) the first # is the weight at start up only w/a full syn oil change intervals(IMO)are propaganda of the oil manufacturer Ford recommends 5000 on their standard oil changes so why would you change a full syn at 6000

A Used Oil Analysis is the only way to know for sure. On my old '02 Ranger I usually ran Mobil 1 5w-30, got a good UOA and at some point I tried Mobil 1 Truck & SUV 5w-30 (ought to be better, right?), got a UOA after 5000 miles and it was freaking awful. Blackstone recommended I only run it for 3000 miles the next time but by then I had Pennzoil Platinum in it and I get better UOA's with that than Mobil 1 and it's cheaper besides.

Regarding Motorcraft oil, if you look at the UOA's posted at www.bobistheoilguy.com, they are excellent. Motorcraft is a fantastic oil for the money.

www.blackstone-labs.com
 
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Definately going with Motorcraft now.

And 6,000 is the most I have ever gone without an oil change ever!

Plus at the price of an oil analysis its really cheaper to just change my oil rather then send it in and wait... If I was using Royal Purple and spending 65 Bucks to change my oil then I would.
 
Be very careful, only XL is API certified from Scamsoil!

Some engines are more prone to sludging than other engines. VW and Audi have these engines, so they developed their own test and specs for oil
sludging. Here are the oils that PASS their tests:

Notice there are NO Scamsoil products listed, matter of fact, Scamsoil came out with a TSB about sludging in some engines, and recommended following the auto manufacturer's OCI, instead of the extended OCI BS they claim, to
justify the inflated price of their products!! They also recommend using their XL product, which is their ONLY API certified product!!
Sounds like they have gotten into deep poo-poo claiming their NON-API certified oils can run for 25K miles! Notice with these "sludge prone" vehicles, they are recommending to use their ONLY API certified oil for gasoline engines (XL), and they are saying to stay with the vehicle manufacturer's recommended oil change intervals!!


you are so misinformed its sickening.

http://www.amsoil.com/performancetests/APISequenceIIIFTest.aspx

http://www.amsoil.com/comparison/motoroil-3f-test.aspx

http://www.syntheticwarehouse.com/api_licensing.htm
 
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I average 9,000 per oil change with the Rotella 5W-40 synthetic Rotella, but I change the filter every 3,000. Same for the Bimmer.
 
I run synthetic but I still change it every 5000 miles. I figure 5000 miles worth of dirt is still 5000 miles worth of dirt and I want to get it out of there. Plus by then the filter will be running in bypass anyway unless I drop $12 for a K&N or Mobil 1 filter with synthetic media, so I figure what the hell, I just change the oil.

The Sport Trac gets Mobil 1 0w-30 Fuel Economy Formula and Motorcraft filters. A 5000 mile UOA with the 0w-30 was fine.
 
the last two posts reminded me also about the filter. Amsoil is only good for the 25k with an Amsoil Absolute Efficiency filter, which is also the only non-bypass system on the market to filter down to 15microns @ nearly 98% efficiency.

5000 miles doesnt even phase an Amsoil AE filter. Mobil1 and K&N filters dont even compare. If you dont want to drop the $20 on an Amsoil filter, I would recommend WIX.
 
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