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Oil pump change - advice?


PetroleumJunkie412

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Oct 31, 2018
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1988
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Give 'yer balls a tug. Fight me.
Alright, kicking myself for not listening to that voice in the back of my skull in February when I had the engine out. Didn't change the oil pump back then, and should have.

Have a Melling M328 sitting on the shelf, ready to go. Changing it tomorrow morning.

Read that there's two ways to do it: pull the engine, or lift the engine and cab.

I think I'm going to try the lift stuff up method. Front clearance shouldn't be an issue: no mechanical fan, no power steering pump. Plan is to remove front four cab bolts and lift core support 2" on blocks, then hoist engine and trans 3.5" on 4x4s under the engine mounts.

Anyone done this one? Is my plan of attack going to work, or should I just pull the motor?
 
Hind sight...

Never did one on a 2.9... but I just like the idea of it being out of the truck. I just feel you have a better chance of getting things clean and sealed up properly. Did I mention I hate rolling around on the ground working on my back?
 
I did it by partially pulling the engine... But, I think the best way is to pull the engine the whole way and do it if you have the means. I tried just lifting the engine a little bit, but could never get the clearance to take the pump out. Once it was out, I found it virtually impossible to put the new pump in because I had no room to hold the pump's shaft in while I guided the pump into place, and then hold all that up and then line up the bolt holes... All that to say, I had to give up, unbolt the tranny, unbolt the exhaust, disconnect hoses and wires (apparently I missed a couple and made a few extra problems), and lift it almost all the way out of the truck. It was so much easier to do after that! Every step I took trying to save time by not taking a part off to lift the engine only took me ten times longer.
Kinda got off topic there... Right! Lifting the cab seems like an extra step to me. Lifting the engine (the right way from the start, mind you) would be the best way to do it.
 
I did it by unhooking the motor mounts, lifting the engine up as far as I could with it still hooked to the tranny, lowering the oil pan as much as possible, and it was one hell of a battle, but I got it done. A mirror on a stick was used a lot.
 
Pull it.


Honestly, make the core removable since you are platforming insanity.

If Jim's truck was in my possession a bit longer that was next and modularizing the bedsides.

Those things will still happen.....just not this year;)....

When you know your fitting supercharger beautification devices.....it really helps.



Mine takes about 5-10 minutes if I stop to finish my Yeng....

Heads on a big block......no problem.
32296





build it so it is easy to swap motors and you will always keep it running because its no sweat. i can remove my powertrain without crawling under the truck. can undo the driveshafts on my creeper SEAT if i want to or have to because my back is out.

your obviously going to break some eggs.....may as well be efficient at it.
 
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oh....yeah......please note.....the giant fawking oil pan and full access to do an in frame rebuild if i have to....without pulling the engine mounts.


i call those mild improvements to the oem situation....some say its evil...

its ok to hate me because i can change my oil pump on my equally pos boat anchor engine in an hour.....including drain and refill time.....


i can take it....:thefinger:
 
Take the engine out. You will regret not doing it that way.

Especially if your front mounting bolts are anything like the couple I have taken apart the last few years.

The real issue is that no matter how high you get that engine in chassis, you can't get the oil pan in and out with the pump pickup tube in place. You HAVE to lay the pickup tube in the pan, put the pan in place, and then bolt the tube up.
 
Sorta figured that was going to be the case, that it was either time for more mods to make stuff easier to get to, or pull the engine out. Again. ?

Aw to hell with it. Heading to the junkyard to grab the stuff to do the 4.0 clutch as well. Might as well do it all at once.
 

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