oil preference/recommendation

[andremajic]

No experience before this, but I am semi-mechanically inclined. I bought a video on rebuilding the transmission put out by a guy at southwest transmission in TX. The video was 20 bucks, so I figured it would be good insurance. I also downloaded the field tech manual in pdf format and watched youtube videos to fill in the gaps that I couldn't find from watching the video I bought.

I bought a junkyard transmission to start on and after successfully rebuilding it, I rebuilt my old one as a backup and have it stored in the garage. The cost of all the bearings and friction rings was about 300.00 but if you shop around you can get them cheaper. Allstate gear in San Antonio, TX had the best prices on parts.

Automatic transmissions are MUCH more complicated to rebuild. I TRIED to rebuild a ford Windstar automatic transmission when it went bad, but even after cleaning everything and replacing parts, the only way I could get it to drive was by disconnecting the solenoids. I'm pretty sure I damaged one of the drums lips when I reassembled it. Didn't want to double down on the money I already spent, so I cut my losses and sold it to the junkyard for scrap.

Andy

 

[andremajic]

Tools that you'll want to have on hand to do a good rebuild: A LARGE adjustable wrench, Torque wrench, feeler gauges, a micrometer, (calipers work too) cold chisel (with a slightly rounded point), propane torch (to heat up the bearing races, freezer (to shrink the shafts so the bearing races come off easier) a bearing puller, and some anaerobic sealer to form a gasket for when you close it back up. Don't use silicone RTV because it will take more than 3 weeks to fully cure. Also helpful things such as simple green de-greaser, a wire brush, to clean the case and the parts and a pressure washer. (I just went to the local car wash to clean the outside of my case.) You might also have to buy some oversize slip rings and a shim pack from the parts supplier to eliminate slop or end play in your shaft. (Ford rebuild manual has the part numbers.) I bought the DVD from this guy

and this video was also very helpful with high definition showing disassembly as well

Oh yeah, and the only difference between a v6 and 4 cylinder version of the M5R1 transmissions is the diameter of the input shaft. All the other parts are the same so if you wanted to use a transmission for a 4 banger in a 6 cylinder, you'd just have to buy the larger diameter shaft. If you wanted to use a transmission from that came from a donor 6 cylinder, you'd just need to swap out to a smaller input shaft. I think the shaft costs about 120.00

Andy

 

[rusty ol ranger]

Always ran motorcraft 10W30 and FL1A motorcraft filter in my 97 460

Just switched to valvoline max life full synthetic with the same filter.

Ranger got 10W40 max life with a motocraft filter.

 

[andremajic]

I've been using Quaker state 10w30 high mileage synthetic blend. The old oil didn't even look that bad, but oil is cheap insurance. I know a guy who's ranger went over 400,000 miles and the only preventative maintenance he did was regular oil changes.

 

[truckfan]

Been using Mobil 1 full synthetic and my truck seems to like it.

 

[Josh B]

Tools that you'll want to have on hand to do a good rebuild: A LARGE adjustable wrench, Torque wrench, feeler gauges, a micrometer, (calipers work too) cold chisel (with a slightly rounded point), propane torch (to heat up the bearing races, freezer (to shrink the shafts so the bearing races come off easier) a bearing puller, and some anaerobic sealer to form a gasket for when you close it back up. Don't use silicone RTV because it will take more than 3 weeks to fully cure. Also helpful things such as simple green de-greaser, a wire brush, to clean the case and the parts and a pressure washer. (I just went to the local car wash to clean the outside of my case.) You might also have to buy some oversize slip rings and a shim pack from the parts supplier to eliminate slop or end play in your shaft. (Ford rebuild manual has the part numbers.) I bought the DVD from this guy

and this video was also very helpful with high definition showing disassembly as well

Oh yeah, and the only difference between a v6 and 4 cylinder version of the M5R1 transmissions is the diameter of the input shaft. All the other parts are the same so if you wanted to use a transmission for a 4 banger in a 6 cylinder, you'd just have to buy the larger diameter shaft. If you wanted to use a transmission from that came from a donor 6 cylinder, you'd just need to swap out to a smaller input shaft. I think the shaft costs about 120.00

Andy

Seems their website's no longer working :/