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oil preference/recommendation


These things always made me nervous, not that I've ever heard anyone complain about them but something about just having a lever to drain the oil makes me uneasy.. I like the femco ones that have a cap, and then you screw on the hose to make the oil start draining. Still no tools required but a little more "secure".

Me to, they make me nervous. I want to put one on the ranger but with it being so low I'm always afraid something will come up whack the valve and open it.then I need a motor before it's natural demise. A buddy has one on his truck but I climb to get into it but mine is arse high so it just sets my nerves on edge living in snow and fallen branch country.

Since I have 150K+ on my 3.0 I use High mileage oil, a blend basically, and stick to 3 brands as I can can find them in this order of preference Mobile, Super Tech, and Quakerstate it all depends on what Walmart has in stock at the time. Since I drive an average of 7K a year I do 3 oil changes a year one right before winter with 5w-30, one in spring with 10w-30 and one about half way through summer again with 10w-30. I live in cold and snow country so thinner oil helps but not necessary for summer time so I change weights.
 
Look at the femco ones. They are no lower than the factory drain plug and no lever to open.
 
I feel really sorry for the OP, he must be on the verge of a mental breakdown by now.

Also wondering whatever happened to the always use Motorcraft theory?
 
I think the key is to change the oil and use a good filter. I personally don't like Pennzoil because they own Jiffy Lube and if techs got 1/2 the respect they deserve the concept of jiffy lube wouldn't have occurred to anyone. Let's take our second biggest investment in and have a minimum wage gibroni do the maintenance, what could go wrong?
 
These things always made me nervous, not that I've ever heard anyone complain about them but something about just having a lever to drain the oil makes me uneasy.. I like the femco ones that have a cap, and then you screw on the hose to make the oil start draining. Still no tools required but a little more "secure".
It would be a one in a million chance for the valve to get knocked open by a limb or something off- roading. It has a lock. You have to pull out on the lever to turn it and it's spring loaded to hold it locked. They also have a separate clip that you can get to double the security. That said, I probably wouldn't use one on a vehicle that spent a lot of time on trails and such, but for a daily driver that rarely sees much off-road time, I don't see a problem. I have one on my 6.0 and it's spent a decent amount of time on trails and in the woods with no problem. I plan to put one on my 6.7 as well, just haven't ordered it yet. I'll probably do it next oil change.

However, the discussion (at the time) was about getting oil samples and the Fumoto or EZ-Drain valves are absolutely the best option for that purpose.
 
Oh I realize it's a million to one probability. But it's always been one of those dumb things in the back of my head. Not really any rational argument... but eh... I use femco.
 
Caterpillar uses 1/4 turn valves on their loaders... I’ve never seen one of them knocked open and they’re always full of debris.
 
there used to be a product called the “fram sure-drain” you replaced the drain plug with this valve that stayed closed until you screwed on a hose that had a pin in the middle of the connection that pushed into the valve and opened it. there was a closed end cap to put on when you weren’t draining the oil. I had one on everything I drove many years ago. Im not sure if they are still around anymore. Ive heard of the fumoto valve before.
 
I feel really sorry for the OP, he must be on the verge of a mental breakdown by now.

Also wondering whatever happened to the always use Motorcraft theory?

Motorcraft doesn't make oil.
 
I have yet to find an oil that the 2.9 is completely happy with.

Supertech (Walmart brand) 10w30 high mileage full synthetic, FL1A filter, and either a bottle of Risoline Nano Prime (not every time though), or a can of Liqui Molly MoS2 seem to be the best so far.

Started running the MoS2 stuff as of late instead of Lucas's, et. al. Been very happy with the results. Engine 'spools up a little quicker, and the protection it offers is worth its weight in gold.
 
That would be normal for a 2.9L
but its not a 2.9, its the gutless lima
I feel really sorry for the OP, he must be on the verge of a mental breakdown by now.

Also wondering whatever happened to the always use Motorcraft theory?
I honestly like reading most of the messages, because i think they are funny sometimes
 
but its not a 2.9, its the gutless lima

I honestly like reading most of the messages, because i think they are funny sometimes

Yup. And I'm totally amazed not one of yous guys has bashed me because I use 20w-50 in my vehicles. It usually happens PDQ. Not in this thread. LMAO!!
 
Yup. And I'm totally amazed not one of yous guys has bashed me because I use 20w-50 in my vehicles. It usually happens PDQ. Not in this thread. LMAO!!
Sometimes the thicker the better, and any oil is better than no oil.
 
Yup. And I'm totally amazed not one of yous guys has bashed me because I use 20w-50 in my vehicles. It usually happens PDQ. Not in this thread. LMAO!!
Bad breath is better then no breath.
 
Yup. And I'm totally amazed not one of yous guys has bashed me because I use 20w-50 in my vehicles. It usually happens PDQ. Not in this thread. LMAO!!

I almost said something till I looked at your location and realized South. Up here you wouldn't be running it or you would be replacing the motor at least once a year if not more. I popped a motor running 20w-50 up here due to the cold so I learned quickly its not good in the north for winter.
 

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