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Oil Pan Gasket


JerZDevil81

Well-Known Member
Joined
Mar 1, 2013
Messages
79
City
NJ
Vehicle Year
2001
Transmission
Manual
Well hello gentleman....


I am new to the forums. Not BRAND new, I owned an 03 Edge 4x2 and a 02 B3000 but that was years ago. Deicded to get back in the Ranger game and bought an 01 Edge 3.0 5spd 4x2 with a 3.73 7.5 rear. Brings me to this.

So, after buying I did a tune up (wires, plugs, serp belt, PCV) and an oil change. Napa had Mobil 1 on sale for 5.99 a quart so I switched it over to synthetic. Anywho, after I did all this just poking around it looks like I have the DREADED oil pan gasket issue where it has creeped out by my crank.

So, what are my options? I REALLY dont want to have to jack the engine up to replace the gasket. I just spent a lot of the cash I had on the truck itself and dont wnt to pay someone $500 to replace it.

Is there any way to reliaby drop the pan to readjust the gasket that is creeping out? Or do I NEED to replace it?


Anything would be helpful!

Thanks and glad to be back!

- Jim
 
If you won't want to pay for it, well ok, other than about $20 for the new gasket, if you have a high school with an auto shop near by, take it in there with a new gasket and they'll do it for you for free.
 
Well hello gentleman....


I am new to the forums. Not BRAND new, I owned an 03 Edge 4x2 and a 02 B3000 but that was years ago. Deicded to get back in the Ranger game and bought an 01 Edge 3.0 5spd 4x2 with a 3.73 7.5 rear. Brings me to this.

So, after buying I did a tune up (wires, plugs, serp belt, PCV) and an oil change. Napa had Mobil 1 on sale for 5.99 a quart so I switched it over to synthetic. Anywho, after I did all this just poking around it looks like I have the DREADED oil pan gasket issue where it has creeped out by my crank.

So, what are my options? I REALLY dont want to have to jack the engine up to replace the gasket. I just spent a lot of the cash I had on the truck itself and dont wnt to pay someone $500 to replace it.

Is there any way to reliaby drop the pan to readjust the gasket that is creeping out? Or do I NEED to replace it?


Anything would be helpful!

Thanks and glad to be back!

- Jim

Man, that sucks. Ford had issues with the 3.slug motor. The gasket starts to separate and then.....oil flow city. With the 3.0 you actually have to lift the motor up to replace the gasket. So it is just a bit more of a hassle to replace it. Call around and get a quote from a few shops that you know. If you can do it yourself even better. A shop class might not do this type of work..but you can check into it. Can't hurt.
 
Man, that sucks. Ford had issues with the 3.slug motor. The gasket starts to separate and then.....oil flow city. With the 3.0 you actually have to lift the motor up to replace the gasket. So it is just a bit more of a hassle to replace it. Call around and get a quote from a few shops that you know. If you can do it yourself even better. A shop class might not do this type of work..but you can check into it. Can't hurt.

The shop classes will do any vehicle mechanical work that's what they are learning to do. They usually can't do body work, welding and that type of stuff though. I know my local auto shop class just put the transmission back in my bronco 2, replaced my oil pan gasket, did a tune-up, put in a new clutch master cylinder, and dismounted and repaired a leaking tire. They can do a lot more than what people give them credit for and you don't have to spend a crap load of money on repairs, just buy them the parts.
 
On the 3.0l 4x2 you pretty much have to pull the engine or lift it high and forward, without the trans attached, to get the pan off.
The trans and oil pump clearance are the issues.

That being said, if you can loosen the pan enough to get the gasket back in place and add some sealant, that may get you by until a rebuild is worth the effort/cost.

Gravity leaks, i.e. oil pan and valve cover leaks, can be reduced by making sure the PCV valve and hose are clean and working, and the vent/breather hose is clean.
These help reduce crankcase pressure so can reduce the flow of oil out of these areas.

A front or rear main seal is a pressure leak, these pump oil out, not a gravity leak, so replacing is the only option.
 
The shop classes will do any vehicle mechanical work that's what they are learning to do. They usually can't do body work, welding and that type of stuff though. I know my local auto shop class just put the transmission back in my bronco 2, replaced my oil pan gasket, did a tune-up, put in a new clutch master cylinder, and dismounted and repaired a leaking tire. They can do a lot more than what people give them credit for and you don't have to spend a crap load of money on repairs, just buy them the parts.

Not around here. I have two buddies who teach at a Senior High shop class and another at a Tech school. They don't do this. They only take in scrap yard projects so there is no liability involved. The things they put back together are not going anywhere but back to the scrapyard again. Too bad about that.
 
And correct me if I'm wrong but I thought the issues lift the engine was on 2000s and lower. I know they didnt change the truck much for 2001 and the new bod style, but is there any easier way?

I read somewhere on here about cutting the new gasket and getting it on that way... wasnt sure if this was an option... sounds a little risky to me.

Ugh. The only thing I didnt check out on this truck.
 
Not around here. I have two buddies who teach at a Senior High shop class and another at a Tech school. They don't do this. They only take in scrap yard projects so there is no liability involved. The things they put back together are not going anywhere but back to the scrapyard again. Too bad about that.

Guess that's a good thing about living in the country my local high school will do any mechanical work you want to trust them with. My Bronco 2 has been down there for almost 2 months having a bunch of stuff done to it, starter going in tomorrow hopefully that'll take care of it except for the huge rear main seal leak LOL.
 
So, after looking underneath, it looks like the pan will just drop? If I removed all the bolts, the starter and slid the pan out of the tranny towards the balancer/crank, why will the pan not drop out? There is no suspension in the way. I'm damn confused
 
You don't have an engine crossmember?
 
OK good a Ford Tech lol. It is an 01 Edge 4x2 5 speed (Torsion Bar Suspension)

I've heard so many different things. Looking at it, (I cant get a good pic right now its damn cold out and my camera on my phone zooms too close), it looks like I can drop it down if I unbolted it, slid it towards the crank and dropped out down tranny side first.

On Generation-Edge I found a post where in Edge 4x2s you can drop the pan with removing the oil pump... If/when I do this I think I'll do a full write-up.
 
Last edited:
so this is what the oil pan gasket and the pan itself looks like....


any ideas?
 

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I'd hit that with gunk, clean it up, then run it and watch the leak. Might be the front seal and not the pan. The rear isn't dripping, so screw that if it turns out to be the front seal. I did a pan seal on a 3-point-slow and it wasn't bad. Just unbolted and hooked the engine out of there and swapped it out. Wasn't too bad.
 
if you can see it, the gasket is hanging out (the ribs) and it is leaking


just looks relativley srtaight forward on the edge 4x2 just trying to get clarification
 
Sure looks clear, pan should just drop down and out
 

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