Oil leaks! Save me from Project Creep! (97 2.3)

[mpire]

I have a 97 ranger in the worst color, its ugly, but it has always run just fine and it won't die so I keep it around.

Anyway, I snapped the timing belt or the timing belt tensioner went on the interstate on Tuesday stranding me. I haven't torn it down yet, but the belt is loose on top if you put your fingers behind the cover so its probably one of the two or both.

The plan is to replace the timing belt, do the water pump while I am at it, and probably the associated seals. Plugs and wires were recently changed as well as the thermostat and the thermostat neck thing and sensor. The truck gets regular fluid changes and runs smooth.

I have some annoying oil leaks from this truck. Small, but persistent and I would like to make them stop.

It probably needs a valve cover gasket along with a front crank seal and idk camshaft seal?

What is reasonable to attempt while I have the radiator out and doing the timing belt.

Any spots I should check for oil/fluid leaks?

 

[tomw]

I'd check before replacing the seals on the front of the engine. I'd bet the high majority of the leak is the cam cover. My experience is that they start to leak as soon as they are installed(exaggeration, but not by much).
The cam seal behind the sprocket should last about forever. The front main, ditto, along with the aux shaft seal. In most cases, they'll last as long as the engine.
Many replace the water pump 'just because', but I am one to leave things alone that are working. I would inspect the pump seal(look closely) and how smooth the pump shaft turns, and replace as needed.(rough bearings, dry, wiggly, loose, or leaky), but I would not expect a re-man to be as good as the factory OEM. Things have gone downhill, IMO, since the truck was built. The makers used good bearings, better than the re-man guys in general. Not a knock on anyone, as there may no longer be any suppliers that want to meet high standards. There are good and there are bad. Which one did you get?
I would also leave the tensioner, except, I would inspect the idler pulley that actually presses on the back(outer) side of the belt. It should spin freely, and have no wobble or looseness. If in doubt, get a good replacement. I think A/C Delco(blargh, brain fade) makes good ones. They make & sell a replacement serpentine belt tensioner for the mid-1980's 2.3 application. I'd be more concerned with the tensioner than the water pump, as a leaky pump can be nursed to a good replacement time/location, while a failed tensioner will absolutely leave you by the side of the road in most cases.
Unless they have changed quality, I'd get a Gates or Goodyear or similar, Bob's Timing Belts Toasters & Pizza is not the source I'd use.
tom